Cooling system advice

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jasons99hoe

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Thanks for the help kenny, I was wondering the thread type. I will update thread when I get everything fixed up. Gonna put a brass pipe nipple with new heater hose. May put high temp rtv on top threads. Not sure.

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i wouldnt use a brass nipple as brass and iron usually suffer from electrolysis. just my opinion. not saying it wont work. its a small amount so im not sure
 
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kennythewelder

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i wouldnt use a brass nipple as brass and iron usually suffer from electrolysis. just my opinion. not saying it wont work. its a small amount so im not sure
The brass nipple screws into the intake manifold, not the engine block, so there is no cast. Its ether aluminum, or plastic. I think its aluminum, but its been so long since I put mine on, I dont remember. Mine has been on for 7 or 8 years maybe longer, I have had my truck going on 16 years.
 

jasons99hoe

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The brass nipple screws into the intake manifold, not the engine block, so there is no cast. Its ether aluminum, or plastic. I think its aluminum, but its been so long since I put mine on, I dont remember. Mine has been on for 7 or 8 years maybe longer, I have had my truck going on 16 years.
yea your right they are aluminum. my bad. sometimes i feel like an idiot, this is one of those times. i have the same engine as you i should know that
 

kennythewelder

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No prob. My memory is not the best ether.
 

kennythewelder

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I just realsed that we are both on this forum, and GMtruckclub.com also. Duh on me, rite. I dont remember if we talked about this before. Thats what I mean about my memory not being the best. I think I smoked to much dope in high school Ha Ha, but hey that was a long time ago.
 

east302

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Dragging this up.

I replaced the factory quick connect on my 1998 in December 2016 (187,000 miles) with this 3/4” hose x 1/2” NPT fitting.

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It is steel. I used this Permatex as a thread sealant:

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Now it’s August 2018 with 190,000 miles and it looks like this:

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It has the orange Dexcool in it (yeah, I know). This looks like orange coolant mixed with the white thread sealant. The end of the hose that connects to it is clean, no sign of it leaking there.

It’s been running for 30 minutes now and it’s still dry. Could it be leaking up through the threads? Was thread sealant even needed to begin with?




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El Tigre

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I too replaced the OEM connector,but with a pipe thread to AN-10 adapter. I wouldn't use thread sealant. Instead use teflon paste,or tape for pipe threaded joints.
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kennythewelder

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I too replaced the OEM connector,but with a pipe thread to AN-10 adapter. I wouldn't use thread sealant. Instead use teflon paste,or tape for pipe threaded joints.
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I agree. I used teflon tape on mine. You nay want to remove the fitting one day, and teflon tape is what you want to use on anything water (or coolant) pressure.
 

454cid

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I'd use pipe dope.... teflon tape is kinda crappy stuff in my opinion. It's always got that tail hanging out. I think Pipefitters are more inclined to use pipe dope, too.

I would also use a spring clamp instead of that worm drive clamp. It would keep constant tension on the hose during it's hot and cold cycles, or when the hose shrinks a bit as it ages..... plus no tail sticking out!
 

east302

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Thanks guys, I’m going to put in on the list of things to do. It only started recently when I drove it for a week straight.

Will look for one of those spring clamps as well. Good suggestion.


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