color me dyslexic, code 32 NOT 23

[Busted Knuckle]

I don't believe any of the Bluetooth modules are compatible with OBD1 vehicles unfortunately, at least I've never seen one that was.

I bought one, but haven't really played with it. BT link to my Amazon Fire HD10.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Pin-ALD...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[df2x4]

I bought one, but haven't really played with it. BT link to my Amazon Fire HD10.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Pin-ALDL-OBD1-Bluetooth-Code-Reader-Scanner-Adapter/273913863931?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

That's a new one for me, I guess they do exist!

 

[Busted Knuckle]

That's a new one for me, I guess they do exist!

I do not recommend it (yet). So far all I've seen is a very simple "list" type display, and its not simple to configure. I'll post a small review on it after I'm familiar. Not a bad price tho, and the Tablet is only $99 on sale. BTW the Amazon HD10 tablet is nice IF you are a Prime member. Huge free media; movies, books, music. It is somewhat limited and the compute power is marginal. Full 1080p display IS nice. You have to download movies ahead of time or it will seriously buffer and is useless for real time streams.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Research before you buy. I have a two year old Fire tablet and it won't bluetooth to my BAFX OBDII reader.

 

[kenh]

Color me stupid/dyslexic or what ever. Code 32 NOT 23. Doing a little research it seems headers and a free flowing exhaust can be the issue. I have shorty headers, no CAT. 3" single to the muffler then duel pipes out of the muffler.

On some of the other forums all the talk is about mods to the chip and other chip related stuff. WAY over my head. Is there a "simple" fix?

Thanks!

Ken

PS, edited thread title

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Doing a little research it seems headers and a free flowing exhaust can be the issue. I have shorty headers, no CAT. 3" single to the muffler then duel pipes out of the muffler.

Code 32 is EGR. The ECM doesn't care if you have a Cat. It looks at your O2 sensor change when you're cruising over 45MPH and engine is up to operating temp. It will open the EGR valve and look to see if your AFR leans out (IIRC) a little. If it doesn't, it'll throw that code. I have shorty headers, JBA mandrel bent Y pipe (2-1/4" to 3") going into a high flow Cat and a Borla 3" straight through muffler and didn't have any problems with the EGR working properly, until I disabled it in the ECM, LOL.

 

[kenh]

Well I guess the first thing is to pull the valve and see if any of the ports are clogged up. I would guess if you apply vacuum to the valve you should be able to see the pintle move.

 

[thinger2]

With it shut off. Connect a hand vacuum pump and see it it will hold about 15 inches of vacuum for a minute.
If it wont hold vacuum, its either stuck or has a big hole.
If it will build vacuum but bleeds back down to fast, its a leaker.
Sometimes you can break them loose with a few love taps while pumping the vacuum.
With it running, plug the vacuum line and apply vacuum to the egr. Your idle speed should change if its working.
If you dont have a vacuum pump. The parts stores have them as loaners but they are always broken or soaked in brake fluid so hold your thumb over the end of it and see if it will hold vacuum.
before walking out the door with
Or buy a "mighty vac" for about 40 bucks. Well worth it

 

[Schurkey]

Code 32 NOT 23.

Clear the code, see if it comes back.

Connect a scan tool, see what codes register, and what the data stream shows.

THIS is why I tell folks to connect a scan tool. No errors reading the blinky-light codes that way.



The EGR valve used in my '88 is a backpressure-sensing valve.

Screw with the exhaust too much, the EGR doesn't work properly.

There's positive-backpressure and negative-backpressure valves. I forget which one it uses, and for that matter I don't remember how to tell them apart visually.

One of them won't hold vacuum unless the exhaust has some level of back pressure (+ or -, I forget.) If the engine is off, it's going to leak vacuum when tested. The other kind will hold vacuum. with the engine off. Pretty sure the kind I have will hold vacuum.

Of course, "ordinary" EGR valves that don't sense back-pressure will hold vacuum when tested with the engine off.

The good news is that I installed shorty headers, and a monolithic catalyst, and larger-diameter exhaust pipes; and it still doesn't throw a code. I think the system is not terribly sensitive.

 

[Supercharged111]

My '88 threw the EGR code but I'd deleted it. Does the OP's truck even have an EGR valve? Back when I researched mine it said the ECM was looking for a change in MAP which would indicate a change in airflow indicating that it's doing its thing. The other part is, if the ECM knows EGR is inop, is it smart enough to not engage the EGR timing modifiers?