C2500 ExtSBDD build.

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Couple comparison pictures. The factory 2500 front springs appear to be slightly thicker than the Belltech. And after 25 years and 190K measure 15 inches long. The new BT springs measure about 14.75 inches long. Installed new isolator pads also.

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The energy suspension urethane lower control arm bushings need to be trimmed for the rear mount I believe. Kit comes with 4 x 3.5 inch bushings. Rears need to be trimmed down to 3 inches. I used a 4.5 inch cutoff wheel very carefully just rotating bushing on the wheel. Before installation in arms I was pre fitting everything using a metal grinding disc on a hand grinder. Not sloppy but slid in and out easily before installation in control arms. Inner tubes and all 4 bushings needed a bit of grinding to slide in and out freely also. When installed in control arms it is still a very tight installation requiring force and patience. bu

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I went redneck on old rubber LCA bushings. Used map gas and lit em on fire for a bit. That softened them up enough that I could dig em out with a giant screw driver. I really doubt I got the control arm hot enough to damage or weaken anything. Was able to handle LCA immediately after without having to cool em down with water. They cleaned right up with a small wire brush and any burnt rubber inside cleaned right off with carb cleaner and the wire brush. Be warned though the inner metal tubes in old rubber bushings can shoot out a couple feet all on there own after they burn for a bit. Surprise the hell out of me. Lucked out cuz if it went another few feet it was heading straight for a gas can. Good thing I was in gravel.

 

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So here’s a picture of all the goodies installed. Expanded the upper ball joint area to show how much you need to bend the metal end of brake hose at the caliper. It runs directly into upper ball joint otherwise so I bent it just enough to run under the upper ball joint. It’s not as close to the cotter pin as it looks.

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Here’s some socket sizes needed for the job.
Upper ball joint nuts 26mm
Lower ball joint nuts 27mm
Pitman arm nut 33mm
Idler arm nut 24mm
LCA bolts are 24mm
UPA bolts are 21or22mm(can’t remember)
Tie rod nuts m, inner on idler/pitman and outer are all 18mm I believe.

 

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Oh yeah the 16 inch steel rims don’t contact LCA’s so no grinding needed. My alignment guesses are good enough to take it for a test drive and drove pretty good. Ride is firm but not horrible guessing mostly cuz 2500 spring pack in rear. Did they even have 1500 HD’s in 96? Maybe that’s what this 2500 basically is. Gonna drive it for a bit and access that later. Will help keep from bottoming out the rear suspension easily anyways. Maybe pull a leaf out of the pack if I decide it’s too harsh.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I went redneck on old rubber LCA bushings. Used map gas and lit em on fire for a bit. That softened them up enough that I could dig em out with a giant screw driver. I really doubt I got the control arm hot enough to damage or weaken anything. Was able to handle LCA immediately after without having to cool em down with water. They cleaned right up with a small wire brush and any burnt rubber inside cleaned right off with carb cleaner and the wire brush. Be warned though the inner metal tubes in old rubber bushings can shoot out a couple feet all on there own after they burn for a bit.

Several years ago I went to replace the front end bushings in my Jaguar. Like you I was having trouble with the control arm bushings, so I set the control arm on the ground and put my heat gun on it to soften it up. I turned around to do something else, and about a minute later I heard a sound like a jet engine. The bushing was on fire with a jet of green flame shooting out of it! I just let it go, and when it was done I scooped what was left of the burned rubber into the trash and pounded out the bearing shell.

 

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Good day, got wheels and alignment. Think I paid top dollar at alignment shop at $220 but everything specked out real good other than steering box play. They claimed it was pretty bad. I’ve driven the truck so little prior and old tires were so bad I couldn’t really tell. Also I drive a day cab semi truck every day for work and they are notorious for wandering all over so even a ****** car feels like a go cart in comparison. Probably drove 60 miles after everything said and done. Truck runs good, suspension is definitely firm, you really feel rough roads, but not unbearable just wouldnt call it plush. Didn’t push it but sure corners flat. This truck has a lot more gear than my Cheyenne. 70mph was 2100 rpm. That rpm would be 80 mph in my old truck. Also exhaust is very quiet so all you hear going down the road is the forced air from the clutch fan. My 4.3 clutch fan never made that kinda noise. Not sure if I like it and how does that not rob power but I know they work great. You can feel the air being pulled through the grill at idle.

 

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With brand new kicks! 235/55-20 fronts and 265/50-20 rears on Vision Legend 6 wheels. Rims are a lot shinier than I expected. Looks far more of a show truck than it actually is in this picture. I’m really happy with the stance and rake!

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For next step I’m looking into some detailing. My buddy does auto glass for a large local car dealership and goes around to all of them so he’s gonna get me in touch with a guy. Yeah I could probably do quite a bit myself but I got no problems paying someone that knows what the hell he’s doing. Less likely to burn through what is left of the finish that way anyways. Perhaps headlights before then but gotta study how other guys tackle lighting upgrades before I start down that road. Oh yeah these rims really make the rear drums stand out and look like ****. Need to paint em bare minimum but gonna look into a junkyard rear disc conversion for cosmetic mainly and if I get more performance all the better.

 

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