C2500 ExtSBDD build.

[e-fin]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Hey all, this is my 96 C2500 2 door extended cab I picked up in September 2020. Has a 5.7 with 190K. Silverado package so all the power options and cloth seats. I’ve been saving money and looking for a new daily driver for awhile. I’ve been daily driving a 98 C1500 Cheyenne reg cab LB for the last 8 years. I had in mind a 99 up LS powered truck originally and having a buddy living in Austin Texas I figured that’s where it would come out of. This popped up on C-L near me in Minnesota for $3500 and I figured if the pictures really represented the actual I could be in business and planned on beating him up on price a little. As usual im a poor negotiator but I really fell for it and $3300 drove it home. It’s not perfect but In Minnesota OBS Chevy’s don’t look like this very often. Haven’t really verified this but I was told it was a Florida truck first 3/4s it’s life then changed hands among family and was used to run a corn stand business in the summers up here. Guy I got it from was 3rd owner and really just used it to for errands and to launch his small boat at the landing close by. Not rust free but pretty damn good for here. Has typical small dents and scratches for a 25 year old vehicle but looks like it lived a relatively easy pickup truck life, especially for a 3/4 ton. Not even a 7 way trailer plug on it. Carpet is stained and headliner is ripped up. Currently has 3 different brands of tires on it and fronts are really worn and cupped aggressive all season types. I plan on making this a daily driver but seasonal to keep it out of the salt as much as I can. Bought it and drove it home and parked it in the garage. I’ve barely put 50 miles on it and everything felt pretty good other than the front tires so hoping I got a good one to make a cool driver. The front fenders not matching really pop out in pictures way more than you notice in person. Kinda a bummer, suppose it could have easily been a collision repair at some point. Other than that no signs of serious damage front end wise underneath anyways. My daily is getting tired, 4.3 is still kicking at 290k and rust is about to really pop so time for a new ride. Here’s my plans for next 3 months or so.
1. Belltech 3/4 drop
2. All new ball joints, tie rods, steering parts.
3. Urethane bushings.
4. 20 inch wheels, slightly wider in rear
5. Carpet and headliner, possibly have driver seat resprung. It’s not ripped up just felt a little strange.
6. Stereo system of some sort.
7. Headlights/tail lights
8. Some type of bed cover.
9. Sometime probably way down the road a healthy LS transplant but I will be happy with just a cool looking ride for quite awhile.


In the end I know I’ll probably end up with $7-8K into this pretty easy long before motor but can’t see how this won’t last me many many years.

​

 

[e-fin]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[e-fin]

You must be registered for see images attach

So far here’s my pile of parts.

Belltech 700sp kit consisting of 2 inch spindle drop and 2 inch lower springs with 1 inch spacer up front and spring mounts and shackles in rear. Street performer shocks.

MOOG front end rebuild kit plus pitman and idler arms and center link.

Energy Suspension urethane bushing kit

Just a word to any newbies (I’m close to one ) and I’m sure most of you know this but I have to say it anyways. Doing the drop is only half the cost realistically and we aren’t even talking wheels yet. I seriously under estimated all the hard parts when I initially dreamed this up and built a fund. All the hard parts like ball joints and steering components added up to $540 I believe. MOOG has a front end rebuild kit for $396 that auto parts stores either don’t know about or won’t tell you so go straight to them, free shipping also. Another $260 for urethane bushings so almost as much in hard parts as drop kit and I’m sure I’ve overlooked something also. The Moog stuff is all life time warranty I believe. You could cut costs here if you wanted I guess with cheaper and don’t have to necessarily replace it all. I may not even need everything but I have it just for piece of mind I guess.

 

[e-fin]

Unfortunately because of cold weather I won’t be getting started for probably a week or so at the earliest. Heatwave Wednesday with a high of 7 but after that it’s really bad. Weekend looks brutal. Sunday high temperature of -2 degrees and -17 overnight. Sounds like a lot of you are dealing with same crap. I have a tuck under garage but it’s not heated. My little propane jet heater actually does a great job when it’s even as low as teens but no thanks being on concrete that cold. It can wait.

 

[e-fin]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Here’s a picture of my daily, freezing in the negative temps. RWD isn’t as useless in the winters as one would think. Only been a few times I wished I had 4wd really. 4.3 Vortec has just enough power to not be in the way and I legitimately average 18 mpg in warm weather. Fuel gauge never really worked and I fill it by trip odometer so I geek out on fuel economy almost every time I fuel it. Currently down to 14mpg with winter ethanol and constant idling to warm it up. Bet I idle 40 minutes a day now and drive it 50 minutes too and from work. Sure a v8 would be 10 max in winter.

I found this other picture awhile back and this is my true inspiration for my new truck. Damn near perfection!

 

[1ton-o-fun]

Great lookin' truck! Welcome to the forum!
I'm a big fan of the light blues like your inspirational pic.

 

[e-fin]

Got a dumb question for anybody with experience. I’m doubting I’ll be able to complete a drop in one day and I have help from a buddy and his dad in his nice garage. I’m thinking of doing the front first on my own in my garage then driving it 15 miles or so to his garage and doing the back second, then have it aligned. Since I have all new steering components do you think I could measure and duplicate tie rods (assuming I’m close to alignment now) to be close enough to drive it or adjust a specific amount or direction? Guessing when you drop it you must be changing those lengths otherwise it wouldn’t be as big a deal to get it aligned immediately. What’s the best process to do a two step build if I’m gonna have to drive it as much as 30 miles round trip in between front and rear builds?

 

[618 Syndicate]

You can eyeball the alignment good enough to get it to a shop, but the tires will likely howl. I've done it a few times,it can be sketchy at highway speeds so be careful.

The front is relatively easy, why not do it all at your buddy's place?

 

[e-fin]

Maybe will end up doing it all there anyways. I was just anxious to get started and get one end finished. I really don’t think it would be a problem but I’d feel like I was imposing if say something went wrong and I had too leave my truck at his place. Due to my job I have odd days off also, wed and thurs and very little time outside that so that creates other issues. Buddies dad used to have a really nice lowered 99 that he supercharged so he’s excited to help and build another truck. He’s gonna take time off to work around my schedule at his house so I’m very appreciative.

 

[e-fin]

Been watching a lot of YouTube videos and I’m nervous how hard it may be to get 25 year old 190k bushings out of control arms but maybe I’m making a mountain out of a mole hill. Coil springs make me a bit nervous also but I’ll use a spring compressor and I have plenty of safety chain laying around also.