Brake pulsation and hop from rear

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east302

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Truck is 1998 K1500 with the JB5 (10") drums. This might be a bit long...

The brakes were squealing in the front and back, along with a grating sound from the back and what felt like a sticking shoe--when I let off the brakes, the truck wouldn't move unless I touched the gas. Last week, I replaced the drums, shoes, hardware and one leaking wheel cylinder. I also replaced the rotors and pads. Pads, shoes, drums and rotors were the AC Delco Durastop brand. I thought they would be made in the US but saw China stamped on the boxes. It figures.

Both backing plates did have gouges in the little pads, some deeper than others. I didn't replace the plates or grind the spots down--just greased the contact points and put the new shoes on. I know that was not the best idea, but I didn't have the luxury of spending additional time to pull the axles and replace the plates.

With the new parts, the noises are gone and the back doesn't stick. But, I now have a pulsing pedal and a rear hop when slowing down between 50-30 mph under light to moderate pedal pressure. It feels like the back of the truck is bouncing. Thinking it was coming from the front, I checked the runout on the new rotors. I didn't do it at the initial installation. One had about 0.001" which is in spec, the other was 0.004" independent of where it was placed on the hub. I changed out the new Delco rotors for some from Advance Auto and that greatly reduced the pulsation but didn't eliminate it. The new rotors are both are right at 0.001", lugs on all wheels are torqued to 125 ft-lbs in the correct pattern. Calipers and connected hoses are about a year old. The calipers retracted fine, slides moved easily though one of the pins had a few gray spots on it.

I still have a slight pulsing pedal but don't feel it in the steering wheel. I still have the rear hop which I can duplicate by using the e-brake.

I bled the brakes at all corners. I've adjusted the drums and have good pedal feel.

Would the gouges in the plates cause the shoe to shift and cause the pulsation or does this sound like an out of round drum? Or both maybe? I already got one out of spec rotor, what are the odds that I got a bad drum as well?

I'm thinking I should replace the backing plates (along with the remaining old wheel cylinder and axle seals) but don't want to throw money at this if it isn't the issue. Where should I go next? I'd appreciate some suggestions for diagnosing this.
 
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east302

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I returned the drums for new ones and nothing has changed. I may be imagining it, but it seems like the driver front is getting pretty hot compared to the passenger side. It doesn't pull when braking, just the rear hop at high speed braking and the pedal slightly pulsing--a soft loping or lurching feeling in the pedal as I come to a slow stop. Pushing harder on the pedal makes it quit.

Here are pictures of the Delco shoes installed. They've been on there about a week...

Passenger side with new cylinder...

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Driver side...

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AC Delco drums after one week and maybe 50 miles...

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I'm stumped on this one.
 
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east302

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Swapped out the drums and that has made an impact. The hopping has gone, but I still have the slow pedal pulsing when I come to a stop.

The driver front brake is really hot and smells burnt. When I replaced the rotors the second time, I noticed one caliper slide and bolt was drier compared to the other which still had a good bit of the grease that I had put on a few days before.

Could a slightly sticking slide cause this pulsation? A new caliper is cheap...if I had to throw parts at something this would give me less heartburn.


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poncho62

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The caliper shouldnt cause the vibration, but may be the cause of the excess heat...I would replace them along with the rubber hoses.
 

sewlow

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Always, always get new rotors & drums machined right outa the box.
I've bought some that were so warped that by the time they were turned, they were to thin to use.
Even when I got a good set, I would go through a set of rotors a year. Warped so bad that the truck would vibrate & shake under braking to the point that the steering wheel would almost jump outa my hands.
Yea, I'm hard on them. Always been the guy last on the brakes, first on the gas! Lol!
Even still...damn offshore crap!
But I cured all that with the purchase of some drilled & slotted rotors from R1Concepts, along with their calipers & ceramic pads.
Around $200.00 for the R1Concepts stuff. The rotors were damn near perfect right outa the box! We did give them a fine cut, just to be sure.
Not cheap, but they have lasted at least 3X longer than the OEM replacement junk. And they're still going strong! Definite improvement in the stopping distance over the OEM stuff, too! A BIG improvement!
So actually, in the long run, they've averaged out to be way less expensive than having to replace the front brakes every year.
They also sell 'Heavy Duty' rear rear drums, although I haven't used those. Yet. If they are anywhere near the quality of their rotors, they should be a good buy!
 

east302

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sewlow,

Thanks for the suggestion on R1 Concepts, I wish that I had looked at something like that before and saved myself the trouble.

It never occurred to me to get brand new rotors or drums turned...never had this problem with parts before, but I'll know better next time.
 

east302

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Ok, I think this may be a hub issue after all. I measured the runout again. On driver side with rotor bolted on I read 0.002" and 0.003" at two locations. Rotated rotor 180-degrees and the max runout was 0.001", maybe 0.002". The high spots that were on the first pass now hardly registered. Guess I missed that the first time I checked a few days ago.

Hubs are original to the truck. I hear that Timken and Moog are the way to go.


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east302

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Ok, I've got everything fixed but have a spongy brake pedal. It's been bled to hell and back and the drums are adjusted, so I took it to a shop. They said they couldn't figure it out, everything looked good, but said it may be the brake pressure modulator valve.

That's an expensive part, so would temporarily disabling the ABS allow me to see if the bpmv was the problem or not? That is, does disabling the ABS remove the bpmv from the braking system? Do you just pull a fuse?


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