Blueprint 383 short block and CA smog

[PlayingWithTBI]

Blueprint recommends 14 degrees base timing, and Max 34 degrees total timing

When they say 14* base timing are they talking about a computer controlled distributor or a vacuum/centrifugal one?

Edit: too high of timing can cause NOx failure too.

 

[CHEVYS4ME]

When they say 14* base timing are they talking about a computer controlled distributor or a vacuum/centrifugal one?

Computer controlled. Says to unplug connector, set to 13-14 degrees, and monitor total timing, as they want 34 degrees max total timing. It's an 87-95 short block.



Edit: too high of timing can cause NOx failure too.

 

[CHEVYS4ME]

Its not an 8.3:1 not that it matters on your build now but someone working on one in the future may read the false information. I have measured the components and calculated the compression ratio on more than one. The pistons are 12cc dished, usually sitting 0.025" down the bore and GM used a 0.028" thick head gasket. The swirl ports are all about 65cc.

Hard to believe they are that far off from claimed compression. That's good news for my build then... I got 9.1:1 using the specs you posted

 

[CHEVYS4ME]

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Here's my current setup...

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

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It's 8.3:1 in light duty trucks, at least the 1992 C1500 5.7L 2wd is... my 92 5.7l 2wd is stock at 8.3:1 Most just call it 8.25:1

The gm replacement engine which states is 50 state smog legal, has 9.4:1. My setup comes in right at 9.51:1

I'm thinking it will be fine unless the 383 has different effect on final measured output?

Anyone know how it's going to run on stock ecu, raised fuel pressure, and vacuum reference fuel pressure regulator?

Am I going to be able to break it in safely, and smog it, or am I going to need to install my EBL Flash II ecu, and tune it first?

Blueprint recommends 14 degrees base timing, and Max 34 degrees total timing. I can run 14 for break in, but for smog I will need to put it at zero. If I fudge the timing mark to look like 14 degrees is zero, will that help with emmision levels out tailpipe?

Any info, advice, or thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Nice crate! Like what's inside too!

 

[CHEVYS4ME]

Back to original questions...

Does anyone know how the 383 is going to run with just raised fuel pressure, and a vrfpr?

Or am I going to have to install my EBL Flash II to be able to run well enough to break it in, and pass emissions?

Anyone???

 

[arrg]

Back to original questions...

Does anyone know how the 383 is going to run with just raised fuel pressure, and a vrfpr?

Or am I going to have to install my EBL Flash II to be able to run well enough to break it in, and pass emissions?

Anyone???

If you have the EBL why would you not install it? It might take you an hour to install and have it up and running if you take your time and stop for a couple beers.

 

[CHEVYS4ME]

Because my registration is due. I bought truck about 4 months ago, and engine went out before I could get it smogged. This will be the 4th engine. First one was a VEGE reman. For whatever reason, it had metal in oil @ 300 miles into break-in. I voided warranty by replacing cylinder heads. I went with ATK, and bought a 355 short block. It came damaged. Exchanged it, 2nd one came in damaged. ATK uses severely weak mini crates that can't handle 250 pounds, and the shipping from east coast, to west coast. I upgraded to the Blueprint 383 because I read in review the crate was substantial. It's been about 2 months trying to get an engine in it, break it in, and get it smogged.

There isn't a base tune for my truck included with the EBL. I'm not familiar at all with this setup. I just don't feel confident enough under pressure to get it installed, figure out how to get a base bin file. And I'm out of time.

Maybe someone who is familiar with EBL could walk me through what to do step by step to get this EBL up and running?

I have a wb02 I will be installing while doing engine swap.

I know it's easy, I just don't have any idea where to start. I have software installed on my laptop, ready to go.

How do I get a base bin to start with? Is there any bin at all installed on the new EBL?

I'm stressed... This engine drama has put me way behind.

Anyway, I would be willing to install it if I had someone to hold my hand through install, how to flash, and how to data log...

I can tune it myself once I get it installed, running, and am able to data log and flash new bin.

Any one willing to help???

I would pay someone to hand walk me through this step by step

If you have the EBL why would you not install it? It might take you an hour to install and have it up and running if you take your time and stop for a couple beers.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I would think you should be able to break in the cam with your old ECM. Then install the EBL w/WBO2. There are base .bins on the CD that comes with the EBL you just need to pick one. Here's a link to a spread sheet you can use to set up your SA tables (set your base timing @ 0*). Then take it for a short drive and learn your VE. Yes higher pressure VRFPR will help.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-prom/761049-spark-advance-table-example.html#post6301288

 

[Garage Hack]

I may be in the same position here in CA soon. It will be appreciated if you let us know how it goes and what you learn.