Anyone used these headlights?

[454cid]

I bought a set of LEDs that are only double sided, but only for the high beams. I put them in my Volvo, and they'll only get used on the way home from work when I'm by myself at 3am.

Besides possible beam pattern issues, I notice that the phystical interface is not the same as a regular 9006 bulb and that they can rock up and down in the socket. I'm not sure if it is only the fautl of the LEDs or if the Volvo/Hella designed housings may also be at fault. If I had known that I would have not bought them.

I have not tried putting them in any of my truck's headlights.... OEM Sylvania, Arteb, or TYC. I may still do that.

 

[df2x4]

I bought a set of LEDs that are only double sided, but only for the high beams. I put them in my Volvo, and they'll only get used on the way home from work when I'm by myself at 3am.

If you're going to use drop-in LEDs in housings designed for halogens, IMO this is really the best way to do it. At least if you only use them in the high beams you won't be irritating other drivers, as you only use them when there's no other traffic anyway.

If you want an acceptable low beam cut-off/pattern with LEDs, you really need to be using a housing designed for them from the beginning. Like the sealed beam 5"x7" TruckLite/JW Speaker/GE/Holley LED housings for the W/T grilles.

 

[454cid]

If you're going to use drop-in LEDs in housings designed for halogens, IMO this is really the best way to do it. At least if you only use them in the high beams you won't be irritating other drivers, as you only use them when there's no other traffic anyway.

Right, that's exactly my reasoning.

If you want an acceptable low beam cut-off/pattern with LEDs, you really need to be using a housing designed for them from the beginning. Like the sealed beam 5"x7" TruckLite/JW Speaker/GE/Holley LED housings for the W/T grilles.

I had thought about swapping to a W/T grille, but ultimately decided to just rebuild the composite light front end. Originally I was going to go with the glass headlights, then decided on TYC because of price, then splurged and bought the Artebs.... which are not fully installed yet. Simply going from nasty old yellowed original lights to clear, would be fantastic, and then throw E-code on top of that, and I'm sure halogen will be more than fine for in-town driving where the truck is most often driven now. Next time I drive the truck to work maybe I'll swap in one of the highbeam LEDs just to see how it looks.

 

[df2x4]

@HotWheelsBurban Back to your original question...

Those lights you linked to look very similar to the Anzo 111004s that I run on both of my '97s. Which for the price and what they are I've been reasonably happy with them. Not a great beam pattern as @1998_K1500_Sub pointed out, but mine have lasted quite a few years without yellowing and I never had to re-seal any of them. The one catastrophic issue I did have was my fault... They have little adhesive screens over the drain holes in the bottoms of the housings. DO NOT remove those. I made that mistake and a little droplet of water managed to get in there at a car wash and landed directly on one of my low beam bulbs while it was running. Shattered the bulb and embedded hot glass in the plastic, effectively ruining the passenger side housing. I bought another set to replace that housing and kept the extra driver's side as a spare.

www.amazon.com/USA-111004-Chevrolet-Headlight-Assembly/dp/B0015PPZMC

But... They fact that they're listed as "Various Manufacturers" on RockAuto makes me a little nervous. I've read some reports over the years from people who tried different brands of these (Eagle Eyes for example) and had issues with things like leaky housings. I don't doubt that in the end this style of housing are all coming out of the same factory somewhere in China, but I feel like certain distributors (like Anzo) might have a little better quality control. If you're seriously considering this style of housing I might pay the extra for the Anzos or the glass lens Spyders.

All that said, I think there's another round of the Brazilian Artebs coming in soon. Much more expensive, but I'm sure they would put all these Chinese assemblies to shame. I have a few sets, just haven't installed them yet.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The one catastrophic issue I did have was my fault... They have little adhesive screens over the drain holes in the bottoms of the housings. DO NOT remove those. I made that mistake and a little droplet of water managed to get in there

Yes, the drain holes / vents on the Chinese headlights aren’t the best at keeping water out, e.g., from a high pressure wand or driving rain.

The Artebs have long vent tubes, three of them, which are a much better approach to venting. I’ve seen a similar approach on my Honda's headlights (mfg by Stanley IIRC).

All that said, I think there's another round of the Brazilian Artebs coming in soon. Much more expensive, but I'm sure they would put all these Chinese assemblies to shame. I have a few sets, just haven't installed them yet.

Yes, we just placed an order for 12 pairs, so they’re available again, While Supplies Last™

 

[someotherguy]

Those are run-of-the-mill Chinesium aftermarket lights but at a higher price from RA than you'll find the same items on ebay/etc.

If your OEM lenses aren't cracked/crackled you can polish them out yourself; no need to take them to the body shop. Remove the housing from the grille using the two skinny bolts that poke up through the top. Wet sand the lenses with 400 grit or so until you get all the yellowed coating off. They'll look super hazy but no longer yellow. You can step up to finer grades of sandpaper if you like but it's not really needed. Then hit them with plastic polish and a cloth wheel; I like Novus #2 which is readily available. Then some wax/grease remover, and some good brand rattle can clear.

Richard

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

If your OEM lenses aren't cracked/crackled you can polish them out yourself; no need to take them to the body shop.

Richard

Very true.

The body shop charged me $35, but I think I got lucky. I took the headlights to them (off the vehicle) and they did the work at their leisure… picked them up a day or two later, maybe that’s why it was only $35.

Applying some sort of UV protection is important or they’ll degrade again, faster than they did before. There are various ways to protect them but I like using the film.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Glass lens Spyders on my 'burb...worth every penny.

Paired with a heavy duty harness with the 4-hi mod, you'll never need anything above a good quality halogen light. I don't like LED's, the super white color and the blueish tint aren't worth a hoot for showing correct colors at night. They are also terrible in dusty/foggy conditions. Our housings just weren't built for that kind of light.

 

[Cadillac Bob]

Halogens are good but run hot plus are not cheap and use a lot of energy to run. But you see how bright newer vehicles lights are blinding bright so I just give it back to em! Lol but on 800’s the fog lights are brighter than headlights because there 9006’s bulbs crazy so to me grab whatever new housings you prefer and do the leds!! You’ll be happier once you see that you can see more going down the road! Lol don’t go above 6000k for leds then they too blue and above that they’re purple

 

[Carlaisle]

I installed a pair of Eagle Eyes in another vehicle that looked great but the housings leaked immediately. After investing a ridiculous amount of effort and time separating one of the housings and cleaning it in preparation to reseal I reconsidered, threw them away, and bought new OEM housings.