AuroraGirl
I'm Awesome
I did finally fix this.. required pulling the shroud, fan clutch and fan blade assembly, and pulling the grille( which I already had out at the start of fixing this) It also required removing the oil cooler lines (engine oil, not trans) from the driver side end tank, which means I need new clips to properly retain the lines.(One time use)
The ps cooler, as seen in the photo, is not good shape
Heres a picture inside the engine bay above the radiator looking down. See the black panel across the bottom? thats a plastic piece that sits below the radiator that the radiator bushings slot into to hold the radiator. it was curled back causing it to "Twist" along its length. The radiator was sitting outside of it just hanging over on the driver side, you can see the distortion in the radiator in this pic.
The fix was to use a cloth part of a strap to pull the radiator back into where it should be along with the plastic it slots into, by first putting the radiator into that slot, and then pulling it back toward the core support by where the PS cooler is, fortunately it didnt fight i Just had to get it to all slip together, onee it was i just held tension with one hand while i put the bolt in to retain it to the core support with the other. The condensor was also off its mount on the same side, and the ps cooler has a visible dent on the same side. I cant figure out what could cause this damage but never leave any other evidence. The grille was fine, there is no paint or evidence of an animals remains, there was no dirt or rock particles. My best guess is ice? Like hail or a chunk from a vehicle in front that shot back and impaled it. Fortunately, neither of the 3 things are leaking but that PS cooler is clearly due for replacement. my guess is road debris and the damage likely ruined the paint cover and thats why its rusting so much. New ones are available from GM so thats good. NOt too bad either. Dorman does too but ill just do the GM one.
The radiator hoses are definitely feeling squishy and have that "Degraded" feeling. So those will be in the future. Those trans cooler lines in the pic have some rust id like to clean up and paint them so they dont rust out on me. The oil cooler lines same situation. The oil cooler lines only had to be removed to clear the PCM while trying to get it all together. The oil lines actually required a bit of elbow grease to persuade to click in since the radiator end tank was now moved back a ways.
Doing this job made it clear I need new tensioners, both the AC pulley and the regular drive. I hear a factory stretch belt can be retrofited to this 6.0 easier than replacing the tensioner and belt for the AC, I would consider this since the AC belt is unlikely to need to come off anytime soon but id like a tensioner for the belt drive since i has a belt driven fan clutch and makes service a lot more friendly in the future. I was able to replace the worn idler pulley near the water pump with one off my shelf that was brand new , which is good because it has a bad bearing and the metal was rusting badly. The one I put on has a larger surface for a belt, but it has no clearance issues and the bearing is also wider, should help.
I also repacked the tensioners pulley with grease by removing the seal and spraying out the old crusty stuff.. I can tell it still needs a bearing tho since it was rusty inside and has worn enough its not gonna last forever. So new tensioner should fix that. Cleaned my throttle body as well. Nothing of import to note there.
This is a before picture, but I also cleaned up the mounting bolts for the alternator and cleaned the pads on the case and also the "GND" spot on the bracket for jumper cables. The ad230 looks original so i need to budget an AD244 to replace it, which is good to do when I do a serpentine belt and tensioner, but i may just bite the bullet and get another belt when i do upgrade.
The power steering flush revealed black instead of brown this time, which is an improvement. I imagine the black is a combination of hose innerds and varnish that the seafoam trans tune is cleaning out (the same thing comes out of my f150 steering with that stuff in it)
I need to replace a lot of the soft lines on the return side of the pump ,which should be easy enough, and put fuel injection clamps on the parts replacing the stock crimped/ferruled connections since most are leaking there. new quality hose and cleaning rust on the metal parts will make that reliable for years to come, along with new cooler and fluid. The pump is original but its woorking well. However the reservoir is leaking, so its due for a new o ring. But the rust on the reservoir where the hydroboost nipple meets the reservoir is pretty bad. So I think a new hydroboost reservoir at the smae time will be required.
Little hard to see but the flaky should be visible from the shadowy part of the pic.
The ps cooler, as seen in the photo, is not good shape
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Heres a picture inside the engine bay above the radiator looking down. See the black panel across the bottom? thats a plastic piece that sits below the radiator that the radiator bushings slot into to hold the radiator. it was curled back causing it to "Twist" along its length. The radiator was sitting outside of it just hanging over on the driver side, you can see the distortion in the radiator in this pic.
The fix was to use a cloth part of a strap to pull the radiator back into where it should be along with the plastic it slots into, by first putting the radiator into that slot, and then pulling it back toward the core support by where the PS cooler is, fortunately it didnt fight i Just had to get it to all slip together, onee it was i just held tension with one hand while i put the bolt in to retain it to the core support with the other. The condensor was also off its mount on the same side, and the ps cooler has a visible dent on the same side. I cant figure out what could cause this damage but never leave any other evidence. The grille was fine, there is no paint or evidence of an animals remains, there was no dirt or rock particles. My best guess is ice? Like hail or a chunk from a vehicle in front that shot back and impaled it. Fortunately, neither of the 3 things are leaking but that PS cooler is clearly due for replacement. my guess is road debris and the damage likely ruined the paint cover and thats why its rusting so much. New ones are available from GM so thats good. NOt too bad either. Dorman does too but ill just do the GM one.
The radiator hoses are definitely feeling squishy and have that "Degraded" feeling. So those will be in the future. Those trans cooler lines in the pic have some rust id like to clean up and paint them so they dont rust out on me. The oil cooler lines same situation. The oil cooler lines only had to be removed to clear the PCM while trying to get it all together. The oil lines actually required a bit of elbow grease to persuade to click in since the radiator end tank was now moved back a ways.
You must be registered for see images attach
Doing this job made it clear I need new tensioners, both the AC pulley and the regular drive. I hear a factory stretch belt can be retrofited to this 6.0 easier than replacing the tensioner and belt for the AC, I would consider this since the AC belt is unlikely to need to come off anytime soon but id like a tensioner for the belt drive since i has a belt driven fan clutch and makes service a lot more friendly in the future. I was able to replace the worn idler pulley near the water pump with one off my shelf that was brand new , which is good because it has a bad bearing and the metal was rusting badly. The one I put on has a larger surface for a belt, but it has no clearance issues and the bearing is also wider, should help.
I also repacked the tensioners pulley with grease by removing the seal and spraying out the old crusty stuff.. I can tell it still needs a bearing tho since it was rusty inside and has worn enough its not gonna last forever. So new tensioner should fix that. Cleaned my throttle body as well. Nothing of import to note there.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is a before picture, but I also cleaned up the mounting bolts for the alternator and cleaned the pads on the case and also the "GND" spot on the bracket for jumper cables. The ad230 looks original so i need to budget an AD244 to replace it, which is good to do when I do a serpentine belt and tensioner, but i may just bite the bullet and get another belt when i do upgrade.
The power steering flush revealed black instead of brown this time, which is an improvement. I imagine the black is a combination of hose innerds and varnish that the seafoam trans tune is cleaning out (the same thing comes out of my f150 steering with that stuff in it)
I need to replace a lot of the soft lines on the return side of the pump ,which should be easy enough, and put fuel injection clamps on the parts replacing the stock crimped/ferruled connections since most are leaking there. new quality hose and cleaning rust on the metal parts will make that reliable for years to come, along with new cooler and fluid. The pump is original but its woorking well. However the reservoir is leaking, so its due for a new o ring. But the rust on the reservoir where the hydroboost nipple meets the reservoir is pretty bad. So I think a new hydroboost reservoir at the smae time will be required.
You must be registered for see images attach
Little hard to see but the flaky should be visible from the shadowy part of the pic.
