Alternator Bracket/Power Steering Pump Mount 95 C1500 5.7L V8

[Chevyboy95]

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[Chevyboy95]

Yep.. 145A from GMT800-era. They say the AD244 is better because the bridge rectifier is replaceable, where on the DR44/DR44G it's built into the rear of the case, meaning it goes, you replace the rear of the case.

DR44G's on our '06 SS's. Wondering if mounting that sucker up is what broke OP's alternator bracket; didn't think it was a direct fit?

Richard

It isn’t s a direct fit as the depth hits the 3rd mounting point of the stock alt. That has to be bent or removed.

The failure was due to 5-6year of extra stress running dual alternators and a mod to the mounting hole that cracked after low temps sitting in the driveway.

Working on making it a stock driving around truck rather than a competition car audio vehicle

 

[Chevyboy95]

Had a couple questions as y'all are definitely more knowledgeable regarding what will and wont fit.

The original part number I found for the alternator bracket is 10233233 which is no longer in production. The listed replacement that works for it is 10118701. The link provided i believe in post 3 is part number 10105212. Part 10105212 from looking at pictures online looks to have most of the same mounting pattern as the original bracket but has some design changes in the structure. Just double checking with those who are more familiar with the 350ci TBI that it will fit. The differences look minimal, but I havent started pulling parts off the truck to yet as I have a "band aided" solution so it can still be moved around and want the parts on hand so I can knock it out all at once.

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[AuroraGirl]

The AD244 doesn't use a rear case half mount, likes the CS144 uses. I assume the DR44 is the same as the AD244, in that repsect. It could be that the TBI era mount can't take the stress. I don't think the Vortec mounts have that problem. I've heard of people elongating holes and such, but I don't recall the details on that.

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not all but a lot came with the thick ears which you could make use into a rear mount if you make a piece

 

[Chevyboy95]

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not all but a lot came with the thick ears which you could make use into a rear mount if you make a piece

On the mount using the DR44 case, using a thick washer or the OEM shim that is on the longer bolt, it directly bolts on and requires no modification outside of the 3rd mount (rear center of the CS144 case) that is on the motor needs to be moved/removed/adjusted to fit the depth of the DR44.

 

[AuroraGirl]

On the mount using the DR44 case, using a thick washer or the OEM shim that is on the longer bolt, it directly bolts on and requires no modification outside of the 3rd mount (rear center of the CS144 case) that is on the motor needs to be moved/removed/adjusted to fit the depth of the DR44.

Why would you want to use a DR44, that means either swapping thr rear end bs or having to get a external rectifier / PWM controller for it

 

[someotherguy]

It isn’t s a direct fit as the depth hits the 3rd mounting point of the stock alt. That has to be bent or removed.

The failure was due to 5-6year of extra stress running dual alternators and a mod to the mounting hole that cracked after low temps sitting in the driveway.

Working on making it a stock driving around truck rather than a competition car audio vehicle

Wow... usuall you try to bend cast aluminum like that bracket and it breaks immediately, not months down the road. I mean like *snap* the moment you reef on it at all. I've seen it happen from dudes just trying to change their alternator (for another direct-fit stock piece) and get too wild with the tools. Sold more than a few brackets years back.

Richard

 

[AuroraGirl]

Wow... usuall you try to bend cast aluminum like that bracket and it breaks immediately, not months down the road. I mean like *snap* the moment you reef on it at all. I've seen it happen from dudes just trying to change their alternator (for another direct-fit stock piece) and get too wild with the tools. Sold more than a few brackets years back.

Richard

i re-read the thread and realized ive been having a different conversation than most of you LOL

Okay, so, the mount broke because 1) you elongated the hole, I suspect you are going to kill your bracket if you do the 2 alternator mod again because damn son you have insane belt wrap on a 144mm and 130mm alternator both which do not have overrunning pulleys, and the second one is added onto the first rather than using a dual alternator from factory bracket. mind you the power steering pump which is also driven accessory on this here belt that takes a good amount of torque on and off much like an alternator(Relief vs in use) and you also have this 2 bearing idler to wrap those alternators tighter, which Id like to see your tensioner LOL but I feel like your tensioner if its not at full extension its gotta taking a lot of abuse from this setup.

If you do the same again you should consider overrunning the pullies of those two, getting a Type 2/TC saginaw ps pump so it has a bearing on the shaft end instead of a bushing OR getting a PS pump like the P pump, CB pump(other saginaws) that have a mod to put a bearing there, which I know CB Racing pumps usually do that. im sure the saginaw p pumps like the stock one do somewhere too.

THen making sure tensioner isnt maxed or bottomed out in operation(check belt length if issue) and also for not being worn out, then make sure dampner is in good shape, no dragging pullies or idlers, and decreasing the belt wrap since you will have overrunning pullies on the alternators.

The DR44, however yourre controlling the PWM, should be programmed or controlled in such a way it ramps up slowly to electrical demand and the ad230 or cs130 you got on the right should be allowed to work normally based on either stock wiring or the sense wire.

Then, ultimately, I would support the bracket and alternators with some kind of custom jig or setup that can take some forces off the few mounting spots or spread it elsehwere etc, you would have to engineer your solution, but something that supports the alternators inline or rather parallel the pulleys/bearings isntead of with the ears of the cases would probably be the best

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like this idea here, but more broadly than exactly like that
also, if you want something that comes with more helpful mounting potentials, look for a car AD230 or AD237(ad237 didnt come on trucks),

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this has 8 o clock ears, but im not sure if the spacing is the same or not as yours probably not but its an idea at least
See how the rear case has a mount in addition to the same direction mount on the other side? mounted where both are supported together and then to another auxillary point would take a lot of stress off those ears
of which there would be two

just some creative ideas to prevent the breakage of next bracket if you decide to use the 1 alternator bracket again

There are kits that either replace the bracket or add onto the original but have more parts, worth considering

The revisions are most likely strength improvements because of aforementioned by someone else breaking sometimes happening

 

[SuperSpore]

Had a couple questions as y'all are definitely more knowledgeable regarding what will and wont fit.

The original part number I found for the alternator bracket is 10233233 which is no longer in production. The listed replacement that works for it is 10118701. The link provided i believe in post 3 is part number 10105212. Part 10105212 from looking at pictures online looks to have most of the same mounting pattern as the original bracket but has some design changes in the structure. Just double checking with those who are more familiar with the 350ci TBI that it will fit. The differences look minimal, but I havent started pulling parts off the truck to yet as I have a "band aided" solution so it can still be moved around and want the parts on hand so I can knock it out all at once.

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Hi, I read through the thread and didn't see an answer to your question... I need to replace this bracket and I'm wondering what the new part number turned out to be... drop a message if you got this sorted out. thanks