Air Conditioner: what would you do?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

DanJ

Newbie
Joined
Jul 6, 2020
Messages
4
Reaction score
4
Location
Indiana
Hi everyone. First time poster here.

I'm trying to resurrect air conditioning that hasn't worked for some years in a 1997 C2500 Suburban -- single AC system (no rear air). I thought the system just needed to be recharged, but it has proven an exercise in "chase the problem." Took it in for a recharge with die, the compressor started short-cycling again within a few days. Fine. The shop found the presumed leak and filled again for free.

However: more short-cycling. Well, there was a leak at the compressor, and the compressor itself was showing resistance (which made sense -- you could feel it in the steering wheel whenever it kicked in). Fine. New compressor, not too bad for price. Got to short cycling yet again. Had another leak at an o-ring the shop replaced and recharged for free.

More short cycling! This time, evidence of leakage at the condenser. Ok, it's starting to get more expensive than I planned, but fine. Replace the condenser.

Well, that brings us to the present situation. Now everything seems to be working mechanically. For the first time ever, the compressor kicks in and runs all the time, no cycling at all. That's kind of what I wished it would've done in the past, because the air never got extremely cold, even right after the (ultimately failed) recharges. It felt like it was cycling off too fast to get really cold. But I thought it was supposed to cycle some at least. And now, the air is not getting cold at all. It may be very, very slightly cooler than plain vent, but it's close enough that I'm wondering if I'm just imagining a difference. In any case, that's obviously not right. It's strange and seems to point to something -- but what?

So what would you look at next? From all that I've read, this could indicate a plugged orifice tube or a problem with the evaporator. But as I'm amateur, I don't know if one or the other is more likely, or if it's something different altogether. Again, why is the compressor on all the time?

If you're talking evaporator, it sounds like a person would have to pull down the dash, which gets you either into a seriously long project for an amateur, or very high price job, even at the reasonable shade-tree mechanic rate. For a 23-year-old truck. Now, the good of that is I could have the blend doors themselves replaced at the same time, as the air flow is weak and I'm leaking air to the defrost vent no matter the setting. Yes, I've done the remove-the-blower-and-clean-out-the-junk trick. And the blend door actuator itself is working (replaced it recently myself). But if you're talking like a $1500 bill, maybe it's time to plow that amount into a somewhat newer Suburban, maybe a GMT800. But of course then you inherit a whole new set of problems.

I'd love just to get the AC blowing ice cold, and make my own "blend door" by stuffing a towel over the defrost vent when not needed.

So what would you do? Try the orifice tube replacement? Replace something else? Bite the bullet and have the full dash removal project done? Invest in a newer truck and relegate the '97 to 3-season duty? It's such a great family hauler, hate to lose it for summer trips.
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Messages
1,006
Reaction score
434
Location
Means KY
My first advice would not be to take it to the shop you have been taking it to. You need a set of gauges on it to see what the pressures look like, without that you are blindly guessing what the problem is. Does it get colder as you drive it? It could be something as simple as a clutch fan, but you need to check the pressure before you can go any further. It would be nice to know if the shop that was doing your work was pulling vacuum on it as well. When replacing the compressor, for it to have a valid warranty, they were supposed to change the orfice tube and the dryer. An evaporator does not go 'bad', they either leak or they don't, kinda like a tiny radiator.
 

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,723
Reaction score
8,024
Location
Houston
My first advice would not be to take it to the shop you have been taking it to. You need a set of gauges on it to see what the pressures look like, without that you are blindly guessing what the problem is. Does it get colder as you drive it? It could be something as simple as a clutch fan, but you need to check the pressure before you can go any further. It would be nice to know if the shop that was doing your work was pulling vacuum on it as well. When replacing the compressor, for it to have a valid warranty, they were supposed to change the orfice tube and the dryer. An evaporator does not go 'bad', they either leak or they don't, kinda like a tiny radiator.

I agree. Shop you took it to sounded lazy. This can be a simple fix or something more nerve-wracking. What I would do is a bit more involved. I would rent a vacuum get you some good gauges.pull a vacuum. And see if it's not holding. If it's holding. Make sure you put some dye in it so if you have a small leak or anything in the future. It can help out find it. I also would use good brand name parts for the ac system. I've bought a reman compressor from autozone... waste of money. Also make sure they didnt mess up any fittings. It's a pain by the accumulator. I hope they did mess up your evaporator.
 

96-2D-Hoe

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 30, 2020
Messages
137
Reaction score
196
Location
CA
Sounds like it's more than this, possibly blend doors if the AC is operating correctly. But, have you tried just cleaning out the evaporator? You don't have to strip out the dash to clean it and it's not too difficult in my 96 hoe, not sure about your Burban.
 

DanJ

Newbie
Joined
Jul 6, 2020
Messages
4
Reaction score
4
Location
Indiana
Thanks, everyone, for the replies. I'm impressed by the generosity of this community.

>> Does it get colder as you drive it?

Got it up to highway speed, and didn't notice any difference.

>> When replacing the compressor, for it to have a valid warranty, they were supposed to change the orfice tube and the dryer.

Good to know, I'll double check on this. Paperwork indicates a new receiver dryer and accumulator, but I don't see orifice tube indicated there. I tend to trust these guys, but a second look might be warranted here, and I have another shade-tree guy I like a little farther away.

>> An evaporator does not go 'bad', they either leak or they don't, kinda like a tiny radiator.

Thanks, ok. Would you bet on smelling something if it leaked? I haven't noticed anything. And if the system remains sealed now, no leak, would that definitely indicate a problem elsewhere?

>> I would rent a vacuum get you some good gauges.pull a vacuum. And see if it's not holding.

Yeah, this is the "scary" thing I've been dreading. Working with refrigerant under pressure. Perhaps it's not that bad? I've just have always been wary about working with it as an amateur, since a bad move would seem to have consequences, unlike working a wrench on a bolt. Ha. Perhaps time to swallow the fear and research it more.

>> possibly blend doors if the AC is operating correctly.

Was wondering about this. It does get hot when I turn the temperature knob to red, so I assumed that the blend doors were working as expected.

>> have you tried just cleaning out the evaporator

I believe I've already done this. When you remove the blower motor, there's a cavity to the left, and when you shine a light in there, it looks like a little radiator, as deadbeat says -- that's the evaporator, right? I removed a bunch of leaves and hosed it last fall.
 

Eveready

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
1,344
Reaction score
1,641
Location
North Carolina
If they didn't replace the orifice tube I would start there. I also agree with the sentiment to find a new AC shop. A good one will sort it out pretty quickly. I messed around with mine for a month and then took it to a good shop and told them to fix it.

Mine needed a blower motor too so I decided to just throw money at it and get it all done. I have really enjoyed good AC on 90 plus degree days, especially considering the humidity around here.

Some things are worth spending money on. A transmission rebuild on an otherwise good truck is worth it. So is a good AC rebuild. Each tends to fall pretty close to the "two new truck payments a year" rule for keeping an older truck in the road. Each will last several years. A "rolling restoration" really makes these trucks fun.
 

studigggs

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 19, 2018
Messages
258
Reaction score
325
Location
CA
I was in a similar situation. Bringing back my A/C after it had been empty for ~4 years. Found the root cause hole in the condenser easy enough, so thought I could get away with a new condenser with a flush and fill. Lasted about a month before the OEM compressor blew. OK...New compressor. Thought I flushed all the shrapnel out, but no, clogged new o-tube and high pressure blew the new compressor case seal. Then I finally learned to buy a new condenser with a compressor and went through 3 compressors/condensers over 2 years (Four Seasons new and reman, and a Delco) and they all blew the case seal after heat soak. My final and current solution was to buy new everything...GM lines, new condenser, dryer, and a new R4 scroll compressor. This setup has been through two 110+ degree summers with no problems. I guess my point and advice would be that if the system has been exposed to atm, replace everything you can get to easily, flush the evap really well, and start afresh. Second piece of advice would be to go the Harbor Freight and buy a set of gauges and a vacuum pump for ~$120. You can use these on all your (and your friends) vehicles and with a little learning, A/C work really isn't that difficult.
 

east302

I'm Awesome
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
3,439
Reaction score
3,163
Location
Jackson, MS
Good to know, I'll double check on this. Paperwork indicates a new receiver dryer and accumulator, but I don't see orifice tube indicated there. I tend to trust these guys, but a second look might be warranted here, and I have another shade-tree guy I like a little farther away.

I’ll defer to the Suburban guys, but you said you don’t have rear air so I’d assume that the orifice tube is right there inside the condenser connection.

If so, they would have had to purposely move a gunked up orifice tube over to the new condenser when it was replaced. It’s about a $5 part on the high end and most condensers come with a new one. I’d think that they would have replaced it.

Again, though, that’s assuming the orifice is in the condenser line like the trucks/Tahoe with no rear air.
 

SUBURBAN5

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
4,723
Reaction score
8,024
Location
Houston
I thought there still in the line next to the battery lol. Cant remember 100% but I think the ac line that goes on top of the compressor is the one missing a connection for the rear connector.
 
Top