ABS Light + Brake Light + Soft Pedal

[95k2500]

Seem to have a significant problem with my brakes.

ABS light has been on for awhile, but now the front smaller brake reservoir is basically empty, pedal is soft and I can't seem to locate the leak so far.

I am trying to remove the rear drums to take a look inside and check for a leaky wheel cylinder, but I can't get the drums off.

Some vehicles have a latch by the star wheel you can pry up and loosen the shoes but I can't see anything thru the access hole... so I'm stuck and would love some advice.

Also, any particular common trouble areas on the lines I should look for?

Truck is 1995 K2500 8 lug. Thanks!


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[ShadowRejects]

mine did all the same above except for the ABS light.... well i recall mine coming on then shutting off later on, it turned out to be my ABS module, the electrical thing hanging off the master cylinder, mine wasnt working so it caused my brakes to be spongey and the light to come on,

does it run on as soon as you start your truck?

 

[95k2500]

The ABS light has been coming on and staying on for a long time, but the brakes themselves have always been fine. Solid pedal. No pulsations. Stops great.

When I went to drive it yesterday that's when I noticed the brake light was on and the pedal was soft. Opened the hood and it's missing almost all of it's brake fluid from the front small section of the reservoir.

I can't see a visible leak anywhere. That's why I wanted to pop the drums off and look inside but now I can't get the drums off.


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[sewlow]

That front reservoir is for the rear brakes. I'm guessing that you have a rear wheel cylinder weeping, along with that ABS module going south.

 

[95k2500]

Any tips on removing the drums? I can't get them off and I can't figure out how to loosen the tension on the shoes.


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[sewlow]

What's probably happened is that the drums have been worn down until a ridge has developed on the inside edge, & that's hanging up on the shoes. Get in between the backing plate & the drum with a pry-bar of some sort, like a B/A screwdriver & while tapping the drum with a hammer, work the pry-bar around the edge of the drum. Put some decent pressure on the pry-bar, but try not to bend the backing plate. Hit the drum with the hammer between the studs. The combination of the pressure from the pry-bar & the tapping of the drum will help the shoes move on the spring mounts. This will get that edge on the drums over top of the shoes, then you'll have to wiggle that drum off.
Those drums will take some pretty good wollops, but don't haul off & hit them so hard as to crack the drums between the studs. The outer edge of the drum facing you is the hardest part of them, so you can give them some good whacks there, too.
Hope that helps.

 

[bow61509]

Any tips on removing the drums? I can't get them off and I can't figure out how to loosen the tension on the shoes.


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Do you have a full floating rear? If so I can help you a bunch since I just did mine.

This is what your rear will look like if it's a ff,

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your drum will probably look a bit differently if your single rear wheel. But that hub in the center with the bolts, yeah you've got to remove those bolts and pull the axle shaft out.


Once you pull the axle shaft out there is a little clip you take off and then a nut. Once those are both off you can slide the whole thing off.

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The drum and hub on those rears are pressed together via the lug studs

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You can use a brake spoon to adjust the rears but like al said you've probably got a leaky rear cylinder. It kinda sucks we can just slide the drum off with out taking it all apart.big truck problems lol

Sent from the big block!

 

[sewlow]

Thanks Dean! Never thought to inquire as to if he has the F/F.

 

[bow61509]

Thanks Dean! Never thought to inquire as to if he has the F/F.

Well he said 8lug so assume he does

Sent from the big block!

 

[sewlow]

Well, that would make sense! Doh!