A/C not working, and I think I’m an idiot

[YeehawMemaw]

Alrighty I have a head scratcher and would appreciate some help. I’ll even Venmo you money for beer if it works out.

97 c1500, low pressure switch connector was corroded. Fixed the connector and plugged it in. Original low pressure switch would allow the compressor to fast cycle. So I replaced the switch.

New switch won’t even engage the compressor (swapped it out two times)

I jumped the connector and compressor is running but still isn’t cold at all.

is the compressor is messed up? Or am I missing something?

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Fast cycle suggests low refrigerant.
Replacing said switch requires evacuation. Then a recharge.
No cycling suggests low pressure, and you didn't state anything about recharging.
So, did you recharge it?

 

[Dropped88]

Low side pressure switch port had a Schrader valve so you can change it without losing the charge.

But does sound low charge and now it's too low to even activate the switch

 

[YeehawMemaw]

Low side pressure switch port had a Schrader valve so you can change it without losing the charge.

But does sound low charge and now it's too low to even activate the switch

Low side pressure switch port had a Schrader valve so you can change it without losing the charge.

But does sound low charge and now it's too low to even activate the switch

so I did check the level on the low side and it’s within the operating range. I’ll change it out and see what happens

 

[YeehawMemaw]

Fast cycle suggests low refrigerant.
Replacing said switch requires evacuation. Then a recharge.
No cycling suggests low pressure, and you didn't state anything about recharging.
So, did you recharge it?

So I did check the level and it was good on the low side but did not check the high side. There is a schrader valve on the accumulator which you don’t have to evacuate the system to change it

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Go to recharge garage-suck out what is in the system(you'll know how much you have in there), then recharge it with dye. I wouldn't touch ac without knowing if and where does it leak. Best way. Will save you sleepless nights and scratching your head a lot. Get yourself black light torch too-cheap and you can inspect the system yourself( after you have dye in it).

 

[Schurkey]

When it's me, and there's some refrigerant charge in the system, I'd use a refrigerant leak detector to verify the condenser and evaporator, and the hoses/metal tubes connecting it all. The condensor "usually" has road-damage--folded fins, corrosion, so generally that gets replaced, too. Any parts that are being re-used get solvent-flushed except the compressor. Then I REPLACE EVERY O-RING IN THE SYSTEM, and pop in a new orifice tube which also allows me to see how much debris got caught in the orifice tube screen. Nylog Blue seems to be the O-ring lube of choice.

A new receiver/dryer/accumulator is strongly recommended, essential if there's zero refrigerant in the system before you start work. Add appropriate A/C oil as needed.

Rent an A/C vacuum pump, flush gun, manifold gauge set from the loaner-tool section of your favorite parts store. Buy your parts and supplies (refrigerant, dye, refrigerant oil, flush solvent, etc.) from the same store. Suck the system down as far as the vacuum pump will go, close the valves and shut off the pump, and see if it holds vacuum overnight. If it does...add your refrigerant charge.