98 K1500 Z71 Ext Cab 5.7 Vortec - No Start

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

stutaeng

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
3,410
Reaction score
4,351
Location
Dallas, TX
On the VATS system, the ECU will cut both fuel and spark the moment the engine starts if VATS is activated. I found this out the hard way once checking with a fuel pressure guage and LED test light on the injector side on a ECU that hadn't gotten VATS deleted yet. But engine did momentarily start and immediately died.

I don't know if the Passlock system works the same way.
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
10,017
Reaction score
18,512
Location
Houston, Texas
On the VATS system, the ECU will cut both fuel and spark the moment the engine starts if VATS is activated. I found this out the hard way once checking with a fuel pressure guage and LED test light on the injector side on a ECU that hadn't gotten VATS deleted yet. But engine did momentarily start and immediately died.

I don't know if the Passlock system works the same way.
Yup it does. You can crank on it all day, but if it starts, it won't run more than a couple seconds. Been there done that. Paid a speed shop that does a lot of tunes and such for LS powered vehicles (they were recommended to me by a local mechanic) $250 to have it deleted from the PCM.
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
10,017
Reaction score
18,512
Location
Houston, Texas
The blue oval trucks handle the anti theft system a little differently. On the 2001 F150 King Ranch( bought in a moment of desperation, drove okay for 3 weeks, then remembered it was a Ford and started having major issues), the key has the chip in it that interacts with the ignition and fuel pump relay. If you don't have the expensive key with the black box on it that bad boy will NOT start. Had to get a mobile locksmith to come to the truck and make one, so I could show the guy who wants to take it off my hands that it does run. (Mom misplaced the keys we got with the truck.)
 

Fireguy911

Newbie
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
2
Reaction score
2
Location
Memphis, TN
Good Evening All,

I have been reading the forum for awhile but this is my first time posting. I have a 98 k1500 Z71 ext cab short bed with the 5.7 Vortec that won't start. A few weeks ago, it started, ran rough for a minute, died, and has not started since. I have checked and/or replaced a lot in an attempt to get it fixed. A similar issue happened a few months ago and I replaced the fuel pressure regulator with a Delphi unit and that fixed it until now. At first I checked fuel pressure and it was not holding after the pump shut off so I figured there must be a leak inside the upper intake manifold. When I pulled the upper intake manifold, it looked like fuel had been pooling under the cylinder number 6 and 8 injectors so I figured viola there is the problem. I replaced the injector assembly with a re-manufactured unit from Rock Auto but still no joy.

After replacing the injector assembly, I have checked fuel pressure (55 psi at the service port with key on and now holds for awhile after the pump kicks off), I have good spark, I have compression, I used a noid light to verify that the ECU was pulsing the injectors, the spark plugs are wet with gasoline, and when I spray a little carb cleaner in the throttle body, she runs until she burns up the carb cleaner and seemingly floods out since the plugs are wet. The only code I get is P1351 but that can happen from just a long crank time (from what I have read). I have also tested a re-manufactured ECU that was pre-programmed with my VIN, a new ignition control module, a new TPS sensor, and a new idle air control valve. Additionally, in the past 6 months I have replaced the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor. Lastly, I have a pretty good scanner and can see that the values for the sensors are showing values that make sense.

So with all that, my only real question is what should the vacuum pressure be when cranking over the engine? When cranking the engine, my MAP sensor shows like 97 kPa which is basically atmospheric pressure (ie no vacuum). I also checked it during the few seconds I can get it to run on carb cleaner and it goes down to about 40 kPa pretty quickly, once she fires, and from what I have read it should run at that vacuum pressure so I do not think it is a large vacuum leak.

Unless you all have any better ideas, my last thought is that the re-manufactured injector assembly was just bad from the get go. Any other ideas? I am taking it to the mechanic this weekend unless you guys come up with a really good idea.
Will it start for a second or two then die? If so, it's the VATS.
 

Fireguy911

Newbie
Joined
Aug 18, 2021
Messages
2
Reaction score
2
Location
Memphis, TN
You dont need to pay $250. Its a $10 fix if it's the VATS. Go to a junk yard and buy an old VATS module. They're a real pn to get to. Once you have one, watch the YouTube video on how to sync it to your key. Start your truck. Unplug the VATS module. You ECU now has VATS deleted.
 

df2x4

4L60E Destroyer
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
11,249
Reaction score
12,955
Location
Missouri
You dont need to pay $250. Its a $10 fix if it's the VATS. Go to a junk yard and buy an old VATS module. They're a real pn to get to. Once you have one, watch the YouTube video on how to sync it to your key. Start your truck. Unplug the VATS module. You ECU now has VATS deleted.

I'm pretty sure this method only works until you disconnect the battery, at which point the PCM will begin looking for a signal from the Passlock module again. Disabling it in the tune as mentioned by HotWheelBurban is the best way to permanently eliminate it IMO. There's also the resistor method, but that's just fooling the system into working instead of disabling it entirely.
 

jd1794h

Newbie
Joined
Sep 1, 2021
Messages
10
Reaction score
10
Location
Indiana
Well my mechanic was busy but he finally got to it. I know it took a long time but he is affordable and this truck is not my daily so I do not mind waiting. He fixed some minor issues but none of that solved the problem. The big problem was water in the gas tank. He drained the tank and put some of it in a jar and about half of it is water. I am kicking myself since I probably did not need replace anything and a simple tank drain and refill would have sufficed but live and learn. The problem started right after I filled up so I'm thinking that gas station must have issues with it's tanks.
 
Top