'97 Steering Gearbox Replacement Guidance

[Erik the Awful]

Redhead and Bluetop are the gold standard, but by the time you pay shipping you're over $500. Ask me how I know, but I have a rock solid gearbox now.

The most important thing is the bleeding process! Do it wrong and there's a chance you'll blow the seal right out the bottom of the pump.

How do I purge air, or bleed, my steering gear box system?​

1. After installing the gearbox, fill the system with fluid.
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground, DO NOT start the vehicle.
3. Work the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, 15-20 times.
4. Leave the vehicle sit (overnight is best) AT LEAST 2 hours
5. Top the pump reservoir off again.
6. Work the steering wheel back and forth again 7-10 times
7. Have a person in the vehicle and another at the pump reservoir with a container of fluid & funnel ready to pour if necessary.
8. Instruct the person in the vehicle to start the engine. As soon as this happens, if the fluid level drops, be ready to pour in more fluid. The level must be kept at an almost full level or it will suck in air again.
9. If this procedure is followed properly, the air problem will be solved.

Frequently Asked Questions. Red-Head Steering Gears

redheadsteeringgears.com

 

[east302]

I don't really trust the inspector saying that it's definitively the gearbox, considering the same shop provides a quote to fix it.

If that fixes the slop I might just hope the leak is from a line that can be replaced.

I’m not sure how it works in your state as we don’t have inspections, but could you just go to a different shop?

Loose steering could be caused by several other things in the steering linkage and front end, so a second look or further diagnosis would be worthwhile if you haven’t already done so. Hell, a bad alignment can make it wander. Slop in steering can also be relative if the inspector is inexperienced and used to the steering effort in modern cars.

 

[scott2093]

Several people said that the quick turn is too sensitive for the k-series or lifted vehicles. Besides I like the way it turns now

I love mine... But only have a 3" body lift running 285....
It's a dream... It's 3 turns...vs 3.5 afaik from reading....so
Mine was like a boat before and it didn't take any getting used to.....Just what I would expect and want from steering... But I drove other vehicles too so maybe that helped...lol
But I can see where things could get hairy. Not that I couldn't see slamming the wheel to one side going at a decent speed would matter much what box I had...

note to self....just let the golf ball bounce in front of you and take your chances next time...
who's idea was it to put a golf course next to a higher speed road ..?

I agree about checking out all the other suspension components..
And I've kept my original box to attempt a rebuild down the road... But the splines on main shaft looked pretty jacked iirc...probably from all the stress from the other components being bad..

 

[crowfather]

I would start with an adjustment the proper way like you mentioned - taking it out of the truck. Then reinstalling with either a new steering shaft with or without the rag joint and seeing how it performs. With this route you are only out your time and a fraction of the cost of a new box. If you feel up to it you could always rebuild it; you’d be down a steering box for as long as it takes you to rebuild it.

I think I will attempt this first. Is there a thread/how-to on adjusting it on the forum here? I read that you need to adjust it in two places, in order to get it done proper.
Can I just replace the rag joint and keep the original steering shaft if it is good (also, how to know if it is good?)?
I am not opposed to attempting a rebuild as long as the leak is seal related and not casing related. I haven't been under there yet to inspect things. It isn't my daily so I can leave her up on stands in the driveway, garage isn't big enough. Do I need the wheels off the ground to remove the box, or can I have it on ramps?

PS: @fancyTBI where are you from Northern IL? I grew up there before moving to MD.

Redhead and Bluetop are the gold standard, but by the time you pay shipping you're over $500. Ask me how I know, but I have a rock solid gearbox now.

The most important thing is the bleeding process! Do it wrong and there's a chance you'll blow the seal right out the bottom of the pump.

How do I purge air, or bleed, my steering gear box system?​

1. After installing the gearbox, fill the system with fluid.
2. Raise the front wheels off the ground, DO NOT start the vehicle.
3. Work the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, 15-20 times.
4. Leave the vehicle sit (overnight is best) AT LEAST 2 hours
5. Top the pump reservoir off again.
6. Work the steering wheel back and forth again 7-10 times
7. Have a person in the vehicle and another at the pump reservoir with a container of fluid & funnel ready to pour if necessary.
8. Instruct the person in the vehicle to start the engine. As soon as this happens, if the fluid level drops, be ready to pour in more fluid. The level must be kept at an almost full level or it will suck in air again.
9. If this procedure is followed properly, the air problem will be solved.

Frequently Asked Questions. Red-Head Steering Gears

redheadsteeringgears.com

Thanks for this procedure. I Will definitely do it this way when reinstalling whatever system I end up going with. There isn't any groan in the power steering at all as is, so I don't want to introduce any.

I’m not sure how it works in your state as we don’t have inspections, but could you just go to a different shop?

Loose steering could be caused by several other things in the steering linkage and front end, so a second look or further diagnosis would be worthwhile if you haven’t already done so. Hell, a bad alignment can make it wander. Slop in steering can also be relative if the inspector is inexperienced and used to the steering effort in modern cars.

I could, but the biggest problem is that the inspection costs $80-$140 depending where you go and it isn't a true diagnosis, just a check box of pass/fail on certain components. To be clear, the truck steers quite well and while I notice the slop in the center of the steering, it is not detrimental to safety in my opinion. From what I have read MD is the worst state in the nation when it comes to these inspections. Frankly I think it is a racket. Anyway, I do most of my own work as it is, and I would rather confirm the true problem myself. I'll take it back to them for an alignment, but that is it.

I love mine... But only have a 3" body lift running 285....
It's a dream... It's 3 turns...vs 3.5 afaik from reading....so
Mine was like a boat before and it didn't take any getting used to.....Just what I would expect and want from steering... But I drove other vehicles too so maybe that helped...lol
But I can see where things could get hairy. Not that I couldn't see slamming the wheel to one side going at a decent speed would matter much what box I had...

note to self....just let the golf ball bounce in front of you and take your chances next time...
who's idea was it to put a golf course next to a higher speed road ..?

I agree about checking out all the other suspension components..
And I've kept my original box to attempt a rebuild down the road... But the splines on main shaft looked pretty jacked iirc...probably from all the stress from the other components being bad..

As I understand it, the stock 15:1 is 3 turns end-end, and the quick turn 12.7:1 is 2.5 turns end-end. I'm glad you are happy with it. I wanna stick with stock since I like the turning now, except for the slop. It was on my list to do eventually, I just didn't think they would fail it for this.

Part of the inspection is checking ball joints, tie rods, brakes, etc. It is 110+ point inspection. If they even sniffed another problem they would flag it. Here is a PDF if you wanna see what they look at. https://md-inspection-report.pdffiller.com/
This is why I don't suspect the other components. Maybe the rag joint or steering shaft.

 

[east302]

Here is the initial gearbox setup from the manual.

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[east302]

Can I just replace the rag joint and keep the original steering shaft if it is good (also, how to know if it is good?)?
I am not opposed to attempting a rebuild as long as the leak is seal related and not casing related. I haven't been under there yet to inspect things. It isn't my daily so I can leave her up on stands in the driveway, garage isn't big enough. Do I need the wheels off the ground to remove the box, or can I have it on ramps?

Yes, the rag joint can be replaced while keeping the original steering shaft. Here’s a video someone did:

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While there is room to pull the box out with the wheels on the ground, I’d think you will need it jacked up to get the weight off of the linkage to separate the pitman arm. I’ve not tried it with wheels on the ground.

The factory manuals can be downloaded at the link below. It will have the rebuild procedure for the gearbox. The 1997 files are in post #92:

88-98 Service Manuals

Some heroes don't wear capes. Thanks everyone.

www.gmt400.com

 

[crowfather]

This is all really helpful. I love the truck, I want to keep it a long time, I am not opposed to doing work correctly to ensure that happens.

I am at work now. I will try to get under there to check things out tonight.

 

[scott2093]

and the quick turn 12.7:1 is 2.5 turns end-end.

The Borgeson 800134 is 3 turns..

 

[Caman96]

Redhead and bluetop seem to have mixed reviews.

Agreed ^^^
Another option is have Turn One rebuild your original. Or maybe your original is fine and only needs a “proper” adjustment.

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[1998_K1500_Sub]

As I understand it, the stock 15:1 is 3 turns end-end, and the quick turn 12.7:1 is 2.5 turns end-end.

My understanding as well. My Suburban and Dad’s ‘95 K1500 both had/have 15:1 / 3 turn.

IMHO anything quicker would be neat only on a lowered GMT400 truck.

I have a fast steering box on my S10, w/ smaller than OE wheels/tires (sits low), and it’s nice but I wouldn't want it on the Suburban.

Maybe the rag joint or steering shaft.

Put a vice grip on the PS input shaft, or some other means to hold it in place, then...

Get in the cab and twist the steering wheel. With an even light twist, the amount of wiggle in the rag can be surprise.

Consider replacing it with a U-joint, they’re ~$80-100 on Amazon from at least two different mfgrs, Borgeson and Flaming River. I also see some cheapie for ~$30, might be perfectly fine IDK. Search for 1" DD X 3/4-30 Spline.



Finally, FOLLOW the previously provided bleeding procedure; it’s the same as the one in the FSM and it works (for me) every time.