95 4l60e rebuild parts list

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Bucketta

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Is there a difference in the 95 4l60e for the 4.3 and 5.7? I blew up the 4.3 that was in my truck, so dropped in a 5.7 and then it lost 3 and 4 gears within a week.
 

Erik the Awful

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He said with the master kit, forward sprag, band, filter, electronics it’d be about $850.
I don't know what the electronics consist of, but that doesn't sound out-of-line. It's hard comparing the prices I paid two years ago to today.

Honestly, if you're already having issues keeping a 4L60e together, you're probably better off upgrading to a 4L80. I made some upgrades my 4L60, but I'm pretty easy on transmissions. Roscoe's getting a 4L80.
 

tayto

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you don't need really fancy parts for a stock 4L60E. stick with the OEM borg high energy 3/4 clutch pack (7 is fine here aka 4L65E) and borg high energy band. you don't need extra wide kevlar bs here. rollerizing stuff like sonnax smart shell is nice, but not needed. about the only thing I would put in is a corvette servo. the big thing to make a 4l60e live is hydraulics, fixing internal leak prone areas especially in the valve body
 

Erik the Awful

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Overall, I think the 700R4/4L60/4L60E is inadequate for much more than a V6 pickup. You can do all the mods in the book to make it stronger, but it's still insufficient for heavy use. It does have some common problems that the smart shell, kevlar band, 5 planet pinion, etc. mitigate, but it'll still be inadequate for heavy service. I had to make the decision when I built mine, and I did the upgrades, pushing the rebuild price about $400 higher. Then again, I planned on doing some moderate towing. I wouldn't rebuild a 4L60 without the upgrades unless it was a V6 pickup used for going to town. Then again, that's my opinion. I've only rebuilt one and I haven't installed it yet.

Now that I have a one-ton chassis to work with, I jumped straight to a 4L80.
 

Dropped88

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GM designed the 4l60e to haul up to 7500lbs with factory gearing. My 1993 suburban owners manual says up to 10K. Add transmission oil cooler(s). Heat is the enemy. Add a temperature gauge and use the pressure tap on the drivers side of the transmission above the shifter rod for the temperature probe installation. When towing, watch the temperature and *DO NOT* haul in overdrive.
Incorrect on the 7500lbs.

That's where the 60 and 80 come from in the naming.

4 is 4 speed.
L is longitudinal mounted.
60/80 is 6,000/ 8000lb GVWR.
E is electronic.

As for hauling that can be very subjective depending on many factors
 

Karloz

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I’ve got a 95 c1500 wt. I blew up the 4.3 that was in it so I did a 5.7 swap and everything was going good for about a week and then it burnt up 3rd and 4th gears. I’m needing to rebuild the 4l60e but wanting to order everything all at once and for as affordable as possible. Could you guys help me out with a complete parts list of how you would build it? I’ve got a couple of the service and rebuild manuals for the 4l60e and I’m wanting to try to build it myself. Thank you.
 

Donald Mitchell

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Wonder what killed the original transmission? As you swapped motors it may have been cable related.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Incorrect on the 7500lbs.

That's where the 60 and 80 come from in the naming.

4 is 4 speed.
L is longitudinal mounted.
60/80 is 6,000/ 8000lb GVWR.
E is electronic.

As for hauling that can be very subjective depending on many factors
60/80 has NOTHING to do with GVW. It is the relative strength. 4L85E>4L80E/3L80>4L70E>4L65E>4L60E/4L60>4L30E. The 4L60E was used in applications up to around 7,400 lbs GVW, there were some 8-lug G30 vans with the 350s that had the 4L60E that were 7,400 lbs GVW with a 3.23 geared 9.5 SF rear and the 6-lug 2500 Vortec vans used them at 7,300 lbs GVW.. I can tell you a mildly driven STOCK L31 350 destroyed the GM 4L60E in 38K miles in a 7,100 lbs GVW vehicle. Not talking about clutches either, it broke hard parts. Transmission #2 was a 4L65E beefed up and it made it 40K miles. At 78K miles, I put a junkyard 4L85E in.
 
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