'94 350: good cold starts, struggles to crank when restarting or still warm

[DerekTheGreat]

...20% UN-DOING (or RE-DOING) AFTERMARKET JUNK (or prior "repairs") that weren't installed properly to begin with... ...10% weird ****.

This. It's an unfortunate byproduct of when people know just enough to "jump in", but not enough to know better.

 

[usar17]

Where is the battery to engine block suppose to be per factory? Haha mine was on the AC compressor bolt.

Almost finished installing everything

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[DerekTheGreat]

Seems to depend on the year. On my wife's '92, I believe it goes to one of the intake bolts. On my '89, it's behind the A/C compressor bracket.

 

[Pinger]

This. It's an unfortunate byproduct of when people know just enough to "jump in", but not enough to know better.

aka 'A little knowledge is dangerous'.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Seems to depend on the year. On my wife's '92, I believe it goes to one of the intake bolts. On my '89, it's behind the A/C compressor bracket.

On my 99 vortec 5.7 Burb that one goes to the right side of the block, by where the mechanical fuel pump would be. The stud is in the front of the block.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

aka 'A little knowledge is dangerous'.

My dad used to describe it as "knowing just enough about it to get yourself in trouble ".....we saw that a lot in the parts store.
Also why I put every starter and alternator we sold on the testing bench before it went out the door. People loaded up the parts cannon even in the 80s. And we would try to help with diagnosis too, to be sure that we sold you the parts you actually needed.

 

[usar17]

Ya I threw it on a bolt front lower passenger side of the block. The bolt that goes thru the bottom accessory brackets into the block. Figured get it as close to on the block as possible

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[DerekTheGreat]

Just has to go somewhere on the block. I think the intake bolt is pretty dumb though. I might've changed it on my wife's truck already.

 

[usar17]

So I got the factory positive cables on now.

With the follow Grounding side:
-2ga battery to front block by harmonic balancer

-2ga battery to frame
-2ga frame to AC compressor
-4ga frame to Alternator

-6ga battery to front clip
-6ga front clip to firewall

Is the 'grounding strap' from the rear cylinder head to the firewall really needed with how I am currently?




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[Erik the Awful]

Not needed. Not a bad idea either. Are you trying to keep it factory, or do you just want it to run good? Do you plan on doing a lot of engine swaps? Wiring my race car up from scratch, I have a ground on the front of the block and a ground on the transmission bellhousing. There's also only six wires on the engine harness, so take that as you will. I think the ground on the alternator is probably a good idea.