92 Blazer stopping issues

[Blazer 383]

How do I get this heavy Chevy to stop better, on a budget?

 

[df2x4]

I have three suggestions, IMO number one is the most important.

1.) Bleed the ABS properly with a bi-directional scan tool. Follow the GM recommended procedure, which can be found here. Scroll down to "Brakes."

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/

If you don't have a good bi-directional scan tool then you'll need to take it to a shop that does.

2.) Put more aggressive pads and shoes on. Look into DOT edge code ratings on pads and shoes, and try to find some that are GG or better. Lots of discussion on those subjects here, DOT edge code discussion starts on page 5.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-worth-it.47903/

3.) Replace the factory soft rubber brake lines with a braided stainless line kit from a company like Russell. This will improve your pedal feel.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Make sure the calipers float properly. Bolt the caliper down with no pads.
If you cannot slide it in and out with a firm finger push make it so you can. Brake lubricant is the only thing to use.

Make sure the raised pads on the drum backing plate are smooth with no grooves.

Smooth the brake shoes where they touch the backing plates. Just ease the edge off so there aren't any sharp edges.
A wire wheel or even some sand paper is fine. Put a small smear of brake lube on the raised pads.

+1 on the Russel brake lines.

Earl's Solo Bleed bleed screws. Flush a quart of brake fluid through once a year whatever month has the lowest humidity.

Warning! If you install braided hoses and Solo Bleeds on one vehicle you WILL put them on everything in the driveway.

 

[steveed]

Do you know what size the bleed screws are? Those solo bleeds look nice, I might be buying some before I rebuild my brakes.

 

[Schurkey]

How do I get this heavy Chevy to stop better, on a budget?

FIRST THING YOU NEED TO FIND OUT: What is your brake code? It should be listed on the Service Parts ID (SPID) decal in the glovebox. You're likely to find "JB5" or "JB6"; I don't know what others might be available on a '92 Blazer. Once decoded, this tells you how big the caliper pistons are, how big the rear brakes are, how big the master cylinder bore diameter is.

If you have low-drag front calipers (JN3, JB/JN5, JB/JN6) for foook's sake, DO NOT install the so-called "upgrade" "GMT800" "NBS" master cylinder.

I have three suggestions, IMO number one is the most important.

1.) Bleed the ABS properly with a bi-directional scan tool. Follow the GM recommended procedure, which can be found here. Scroll down to "Brakes."

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/88-95-service-manuals.43575/

If you don't have a good bi-directional scan tool then you'll need to take it to a shop that does.

ABSOLUTELY needed...after you've done any other service work that opens-up the hydraulic system.

2.) Put more aggressive pads and shoes on. Look into DOT edge code ratings on pads and shoes, and try to find some that are GG or better. Lots of discussion on those subjects here, DOT edge code discussion starts on page 5.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-worth-it.47903/

Good advice.

3.) Replace the factory soft rubber brake lines with a braided stainless line kit from a company like Russell. This will improve your pedal feel.

I have Russel hoses on my '88 K1500. I'm not thrilled with them. They're OK, but need "extra" protection where they rub on the upper control arm. The OEM rubber hoses have metal-tube sections at the caliper that assure the hoses can't contact the upper control arm, and Russel doesn't do that.

I got turned-onto these. They're what I'll put on my '97 K2500. They've got the metal tube part to keep the hose from interfering with the control arm.
www.summitracing.com/parts/cst-sbh6055

Classic Tube SBH6055 Classic Tube StopFlex Brake Hose Kits | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Classic Tube StopFlex Brake Hose Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Hoses, Sets at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Aside from making sure that the caliper floats properly on it's rubber bushings 'n' steel sleeve, make sure the caliper piston moves freely. They're almost guaranteed to be stiff if not actually "seized". Most folks would install rebuilt calipers, I pull 'em apart for cleaning. Single-piston, iron calipers are easy. Aluminum calipers are harder, and multi-piston calipers are harder.

IF (big IF) you have the terrible, 254mm (10-inch) rear drum brakes, that's probably your major problem. They are a known heartache. You can dick with them, replace your seized park brake cables, use the park brake frequently...but in the end the real solution is to scrap them and install 11.x diameter rear drums from a six-lug 2500.

 

[Blazer 383]

I really appreciate all the input. Will be checking for code. Also, abs light is on most of the time. What’s that about?

 

[Schurkey]

abs light is on most of the time. What’s that about?

I suspect there's a problem with the ABS.

Connect a scan tool, find out what the ABS is trying to tell you.

 

[Erik the Awful]

4. Adjust the rear brake drums properly. I have the "crappy" 10-inch rear brakes, and my brakes work good, but I adjusted and readjusted the rear brakes. If you have to push the rear brakes down halfway to get them to engage at all, either you have air in the ABS, or your rear drums are too loose.