'92 Alternator Upgrade (Need Help)

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Lordkay972

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I saw the thread on 96-00 alt ugrades, but I never found anything on 88-95. I've got a 100A in my truck currently and want a little more juice before installing a audio system. I'm planning on (2) 10" woofers with (2) amplifiers. One for subs, one for component speakers (will probably be stock sized infinity's.) I'm not sure what size amps I'll get, that's a different topic. I'm also planning on a dual battery set up. I've already got the driver side tray installed. How should I do this (what hardware/parts do I need and what's the best way to wire it up?) Should I do the BIG 3 upgrade?

I found this on O'Reillys. Think it'll be enough? (124A)
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df2x4

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You really need to figure out what kind of amperage you're actually going to draw. Throwing a new alternator at an undefined number isn't going to help you any. Plan your amps and the rest of your system out, then figure out what kind of amperage it's capable of drawing. THEN you can go alternator shopping. You're kind of putting the cart before the horse, here.

Also you really want to shop for alternators with a high IDLE amperage when you're talking audio. An extra 100A at 3000RPM isn't going to help you much. You need it at idle.

EDIT - Also, as a general rule of thumb I usually look for an alternator with the capability to push the amperage for your add-ons, plus the full factory rating on your existing alternator. For example, you have a 100A alt. If your new stereo is capable of drawing 100A at full output, then I'd be looking for a 200A or higher alt. Might be overkill in certain situations but I'd much rather have it and not need it than vice versa.

Side note, a good one isn't going to be cheap. These guys (DC Power Inc) do great work.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

DOUBLE EDIT - Definitely do the big three if your system has any real amp draw. It'll take stress off of the rest of the charging system. Can't help you much with the dual battery setup, all my vehicles are single battery.
 
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Lordkay972

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You really need to figure out what kind of amperage you're actually going to draw. Throwing a new alternator at an undefined number isn't going to help you any. Plan your amps and the rest of your system out, then figure out what kind of amperage it's capable of drawing. THEN you can go alternator shopping. You're kind of putting the cart before the horse, here.

Also you really want to shop for alternators with a high IDLE amperage when you're talking audio. An extra 100A at 3000RPM isn't going to help you much. You need it at idle.

EDIT - Also, as a general rule of thumb I usually look for an alternator with the capability to push the amperage for your add-ons, plus the full factory rating on your existing alternator. For example, you have a 100A alt. If your new stereo is capable of drawing 100A at full output, then I'd be looking for a 200A or higher alt. Might be overkill in certain situations but I'd much rather have it and not need it than vice versa.

Side note, a good one isn't going to be cheap. These guys (DC Power Inc) do great work.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

DOUBLE EDIT - Definitely do the big three if your system has any real amp draw. It'll take stress off of the rest of the charging system. Can't help you much with the dual battery setup, all my vehicles are single battery.
Them are some expensive alternators! I don't think I'll need anything that big anyway. I'll take my truck up to the local audio shop and get his opinion on what my system will draw. I doubt I'll need more than a 200A.

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df2x4

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Them are some expensive alternators! I don't think I'll need anything that big anyway. I'll take my truck up to the local audio shop and get his opinion on what my system will draw. I doubt I'll need more than a 200A.

You might not, but you could. All depends on what amps you buy. A good rule of thumb is this, look at the back of your amps. What fuses are in place on the amp? How many? Two 40A fuses, assume 80A at full draw for that amp. You get the idea. Most amps should have that spec listed in the manual, anyway. You really don't need to go to an audio shop to pay for that info.

EDIT - Don't assume that all amps are created equal. Just because one 1000W amp is fused for 40A doesn't mean all of them are like that. Hell, I run an old Lanzar 1000W (more like 1400W) in my single cab (from back when Lanzar was actually a decent, USA made name) and it's fused for 200A by itself.
 
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Lordkay972

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You might not, but you could. All depends on what amps you buy. A good rule of thumb is this, look at the back of your amps. What fuses are in place on the amp? How many? Two 40A fuses, assume 80A at full draw for that amp. You get the idea. Most amps should have that spec listed in the manual, anyway. You really don't need to go to an audio shop to pay for that info.

EDIT - Don't assume that all amps are created equal. Just because one 1000W amp is fused for 40A doesn't mean all of them are like that. Hell, I run an old Lanzar 1000W (more like 1400W) in my single cab (from back when Lanzar was actually a decent, USA made name) and it's fused for 200A by itself.
I understand what you're getting at, but the problem is with my knowledge of audio systems (I have none.) I've known the guy at the audio shop for a few years. Done some mechanical work for him. He won't charge me anything for the info. He's going to install my system and he's just charging me for parts. I talked to him a few months ago. Told him I wanted him to replace all my stock speakers with some higher quality ones. Told him I wanted the 2 amps and 2 ten inch subs. He quoted me $900 and he's gonna build me a custom box.

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df2x4

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I understand what you're getting at, but the problem is with my knowledge of audio systems (I have none.) I've known the guy at the audio shop for a few years. Done some mechanical work for him. He won't charge me anything for the info. He's going to install my system and he's just charging me for parts. I talked to him a few months ago. Told him I wanted him to replace all my stock speakers with some higher quality ones. Told him I wanted the 2 amps and 2 ten inch subs. He quoted me $900 and he's gonna build me a custom box.

Fair enough, then. Just FYI though, that price sounds high to me unless it also includes the interior speakers and an amp for them. That is unless you're talking high end equipment, but it sounds to me like you likely aren't. Make sure you price shop the model numbers of whatever amps and speakers you end up selecting, I'd bet you all the money in my pocket that you can find them much cheaper online. And I'm talking like half-price cheaper.

Definitely check out low4x4's thread, he's got some great info. Especially in regard to multiple battery setups.

EDIT - Just re-read your post, looks like he's including everything from the way you worded it. My fault. That makes that price a lot more bearable, but I'd still like to see model numbers for what he's selling you. Never hurts to shop around.
 
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Lordkay972

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Lordkay972

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Fair enough, then. Just FYI though, that price sounds high to me unless it also includes the interior speakers and an amp for them. That is unless you're talking high end equipment, but it sounds to me like you likely aren't. Make sure you price shop the model numbers of whatever amps and speakers you end up selecting, I'd bet you all the money in my pocket that you can find them much cheaper online. And I'm talking like half-price cheaper.

Definitely check out low4x4's thread, he's got some great info. Especially in regard to multiple battery setups.

EDIT - Just re-read your post, looks like he's including everything from the way you worded it. My fault. That makes that price a lot more bearable, but I'd still like to see model numbers for what he's selling you. Never hurts to shop around.
I definitely will. I'm sure he wouldn't mind if I bought everything and he'd still install it

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