700R4 4x4 advice

[NickTransmissions]

UPDATED INFO:

The Vette Servo did come with the teflon scarf-cut seals so I ordered the Viton D-Ring Kit you linked to. $10 for the seals & $10 for shipping.

The Sonnax 4th gear servo kit replaces the 4th gear servo, runs $85 from Summit and comes with a d-ring seal. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2473-4th-gear-super-hold-dual-servo-kit


The TransGo 2-3 kit does not include the .500 boost and .390 reverse valves. The kit DOES include their TV valve and two 3-2 valves- I assume one is for full manual operation and one for 'command shift' which keeps automatic shifting when you want it.

Sonnax has 2 TV sleeve/plunger kits- the part number you provided -k and a -mk. The difference appears just to be that the -mk prevents 4-3 downshift below 3/4 throttle. If I get the Sonnax sleeve/plunger kit do I use the TransGo TV valve?

The boost valve and reverse boost valves are sold separately or you can get the "Sure Cure" kit which includes both and a few other pieces.

Sonnax also has a upgraded 4l60 valve body which seems to include all that stuff (except the servo upgrades) and I'm wondering if that might be a better route than the TransGo 2-3 and individual parts?

Cool, looks like you have things covered....

Get the Sonnax 1/2 O-ringed boost and 390 reverse boost valves along with the plunger...Use the transgo TV valve that comes in the kit...The transgo valve addresses the 'sticky TV valve' problem while the Sonnax plunger/sleeve kit takes care of the poor/no line rise issue due to the factory valve/sleeve being worn out. Use the longer of the two springs at first then if you have too much TV pressure at idle or while at full TV, swap it for the transgo or factory TV valve spring.

I'd just buy the Sonnax stuff...you really don't need the repro kit unless you really want gear command as that's it primary claim to fame. There's plenty of things you can do sans 'shift kits' to dial in your shift firmness, speed and general quality without spending any money on a shift kit...

Here's some basic stuff:
- Take out the spring in the MTV Upshift valve bore then put the valve back in (Sonnax VB may have already done this)
- Leave the spring out of the 3-2 downshift valve bore (keep the valve installed) then install the roll pin through the top of the VB so you can access it without removal of the valve body if you want to put the spring back in
- Block the line bias valve outboard if running high stall converter
- Drill your hole sizes for your 1-2, 2-3, 3-2 Exhaust, band release and 3-4 shift as needed (you won't need to drill as big a hole for the 3-4 since you're using the Sonnax servo piston as you would with the factory piston)
- Restrict the fourth accumulator by using your old 3-4 acc piston, putting it upside down in the bore (no seal) and then put the new one in right side up w/ a seal over top of it - mesh the legs

My 700R4 HP Tips and Tricks Part 1 and Part 2 cover these and much more....\

Let me know if you have any questions but quote this post or mention me (@NickTransmissions) so I know you've responded. I never watch any of the threads I post in, otherwise I'd have a whole bunch of alerts, nearly all of which wouldn't require a response or pertain to me...

 

[tayto]

- Restrict the fourth accumulator by using your old 3-4 acc piston, putting it upside down in the bore (no seal) and then put the new one in right side up w/ a seal over top of it - mesh the legs

this kills lube to the rear gear train, just block the 4th accumulator feed and discard the piston&springs. i use a 1/16 npt tap and plug, but you can also just hammer in a checkball, but very hard to undo...

EDIT: blocking the 4th accumulator this way also lubes the rear geartrain full time as an added benefit

 

[NickTransmissions]

this kills lube to the rear gear train, just block the 4th accumulator feed and discard the piston&springs. i use a 1/16 npt tap and plug, but you can also just hammer in a checkball, but very hard to undo...

EDIT: blocking the 4th accumulator this way also lubes the rear gear train full time as an added benefit

Yes, I frequently do that for most of my hp stuff. I've never had any issues w/the former method but the latter does provide more lube to the gear train lube and fixes the lazy 3-4 upshift permanently. I use a cup plug to block off that little feed port in the bore but have used check balls as well - no harm in either method.