5.7 won’t start-blows air back through TB

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SuperTramp

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Hold up. So it sounds like we are finally on the same page about what it means for an engine to "turn over". But that thing about it only turning over "when it wants to" (post #3) sounds like a big clue here. Maybe it does have other problems as well, but if it won't even crank over sometimes, then I think we need to address that first. If there's an electrical problem somewhere causing that intermittent no-crank issue, then it might be affecting other parts beyond just the starter.

Have you checked voltage down to the starter, as well as the ground path? Could have a bad connection somewhere.

(Oh, and please don't hide any modifications that have been made to the truck. I know you said "all original", but you also said "carb" , which doesn't ring true on a '98 truck.)


I am afraid that all of the miscommunication taking place is my fault due to my lack of experience in working on cars and car talk. Although I am the third owner I am on aware of any modifications that might’ve taken place. When I get home I’ll send you a photograph of the throttlebody/carb to help me identify what it is, if you have the patience
 

SuperTramp

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Riddle me this. Take a video or have a someone watch the serpentine belt when you crank on it. When it puffs back out the intake, does the motor spin backwards after it stalls or struggles to start?

OK I will. Might be an hour before I get home and under the hood. Just replied your convenience. Thank you
 

SuperTramp

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Riddle me this. Take a video or have a someone watch the serpentine belt when you crank on it. When it puffs back out the intake, does the motor spin backwards after it stalls or struggles to start?

I may have mistakenly said carb cleaner but I was using starter fluid in an aerosol can
 

SuperTramp

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CrustyJunker

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Thanks for sharing the videos, definitely helps us troubleshoot! If it does it again after sitting overnight or after sitting for a couple days after getting some rain...Check if it chokes and spins backwards using the method you did. If it does that, the distributor cap and/or rotor might have moisture in it and it's cross-firing when you're cranking on it.

My old Vortec Tahoe used to do this unsuspectingly, and not always due to moisture. One time I had a new aftermarket cap that became defective after 6 months. Ran fine when parked Saturday, wouldn't start Monday. Came out the crab-cap I had was two layers that started to separate - tried firing multiple cylinders at once when cranking and it would occasionally knock the motor backwards or grind the starter. Happened again 30,000 miles later when my ACDelco cap appeared to have moisture in it. Couldn't fix it trying to dry it out with contact cleaner either.

Only other thing I noticed in that video is that you have some extra wiring. Is that to a stereo? If you have it stacked on top of the factory wiring semi-firmly wiggle the battery connections (while it's running) to make sure they're not giving you any grief. It'll stall if that's the problem. Now if you replaced that wire going to the main fuse block, check it at the battery, both sides of the fuseholder, and at the fuseblock.
 

SuperTramp

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Thanks for your insights! We’ve had rain most every day for two weeks and some serious flash flooding here, so as you pointed out, that could create a moisture problem. When I replaced cap and rotor button a year ago, the old cap was cracked at one of the two places where the cap is held down. Inside, the metal plate under the rotor button had some rust on it. So I’ll pull the cap and check for moisture. Do I need to remove rust with some navel jelly or similar? Any suggestions for preventing moisture from getting in the cap? I.e. gasket, cover, etc. ?
Good idea on the wires/cables battery. I’ll check them as well. I went out for test drive tonight and stoped off at a friends for an hour. 2 minutes after starting to leave, I’m pulling out and the entire dash blinks off for 1 second then back on like nothing ever happened. Are you thinking that could be a loose battery cable? Thanks.
 

Urambo Tauro

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Haha, yeah I've been suspecting a loose connection ever since you said it would only crank "when it wants to".

As for that rust in the distributor, a little bit of surface rust isn't all that big of a deal. But it might be indicative of excess moisture. Whenever I suspect that, I like to leave a desiccant packet (like the kind you find in a bag of jerky or vitamins) under the cap overnight to help dry it out.
 

CrustyJunker

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Thanks for your insights! We’ve had rain most every day for two weeks and some serious flash flooding here, so as you pointed out, that could create a moisture problem. When I replaced cap and rotor button a year ago, the old cap was cracked at one of the two places where the cap is held down. Inside, the metal plate under the rotor button had some rust on it. So I’ll pull the cap and check for moisture. Do I need to remove rust with some navel jelly or similar? Any suggestions for preventing moisture from getting in the cap? I.e. gasket, cover, etc. ?
Good idea on the wires/cables battery. I’ll check them as well. I went out for test drive tonight and stoped off at a friends for an hour. 2 minutes after starting to leave, I’m pulling out and the entire dash blinks off for 1 second then back on like nothing ever happened. Are you thinking that could be a loose battery cable? Thanks.

I wouldn't worry about the rust inside the distributor if it's minor. I know I have some in my distributor, but it shouldn't resurface or be a problem unless it's really ugly and scaled.

Personally I had not found a solution for the moisture problem when I had my truck. Seemed like clockwork...Every two years (give or take), I'd have to change the cap and rotor. I tried sanding the contacts, cleaning/drying with contact cleaner, using dielectric grease, all the simple band-aids never worked for me. I begrudgingly bought OE branded stuff (Delphi or AC Delco, even if it's double the part store prices) after my aftermarket cap woes. That lead to a longer story - that cap helped me destroy a starter and knock a few teeth off the flexplate from its "backfires," while cranking. Stranded me on a few accounts at inopportune times. ...But back to the issue at hand!

Your dash blinking off could be a good indicator of a power problem. If the engine stumbled a bit at the same time, I would suspect power connections.

I had a stereo in my old truck, too. I ended up replacing the factory positive battery bolt for a longer one...So I could stack another lug on there. If you did the same, I'll share this:

The longer bolt came out to be too long by like - half a thread. If you felt it with a wrench, it was plenty tight because it was bottomed out in the battery. Turns out my bolted connection was just barely putting enough pressure on the lugs. You can shorten the bolt or add a washer or two for an inexpensive fix.

I'm just spitballin' here, not sure what your whole setup looks like. But we'll do as much as we can before we start looking into replacing parts! :waytogo:
 

SuperTramp

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I really appreciate you taking the time to help me think through all the possible causes. I’ll open the hood and use your comments as a list and work through them. What about improving the ground wiring “the big three or four” I think they call it.
 
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