PlatonicSolid
OBS Enthusiast
Creative, but not likely since I can replicate it when idling in park.What about bad engine mounts letting it shift when placed in gear putting throttle and cable in a bind?
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Creative, but not likely since I can replicate it when idling in park.What about bad engine mounts letting it shift when placed in gear putting throttle and cable in a bind?
I wouldn't expect to be able to kick it back down to normal idle if it was a vacuum leak.Check for any vacume leaks? They are known to cause high idle problems.
Both run by the same fuse? Verify ALL fuses.It has many issues that I can live with since it's just a utility vehicle for me (radio and clock no longer function,
Usually bad solder joints (about six, the larger ones NOT covered in plastic-y goo. Re-flow the solder, fixed.) on the wiper module. Easy fix. Common as dirt. There's write-ups on this site.intermittent wiper control only works sometimes,
Red "Brake" light has three sources for turning it on. Park brake lever/switch --common problem is park brake cables get sticky/seized, pedal doesn't return to proper position.brake warning light is usually ON - had 2 different mechanics try to fix this and both failed, but brakes work fine)
1. Clean throttle body and IAC passage with aerosol throttle-body cleaner.Symptom: Throttle sticks high. I'm going 40 MPH on flat road without stepping on gas. Have to put in neutral while driving and kick it to return to normal idle. If I only tap the gas it will stick at even higher idle. After initial warm up in the driveway, everything is fine = settles to normal low idle. Once I start driving it settles at higher idle until I kick it down (stop sign approaching - put in neutral - kick it down - stop at sign. Repeat constantly during journey = it's basically undriveable)
I can reproduce this at the throttle body. Makes me want to put a spring on the throttle to pull it back. Throttle moves smoothly with engine off, thus i believe throttle cable is fine.
There's many possible solutions. My choice is a used-but-usable PROFESSIONAL-GRADE scan tool. (Snap-On Solus Pro, $350 to my door via eBay.) Others prefer the software-plus-cable for connecting a laptop computer, due to very low cost. There are many brands/models of consumer-grade tools on Amazon and other retailers.Possibly related:
O2 sensor code 44 (using flashy light method) - Don't have a code reader, but would like to get one (guidance on what to get appreciated)
New "donut", at least that's what it was on my 5.7L. Not fun, especially if the fasteners on the exhaust manifold are rusted--and they always are. I reinstall brass nuts so they don't corrode to the studs.Exhaust leak at flange after O2 sensor - Just noticed that yesterday
The leaking exhaust flange has nothing to do with the sticking throttle. There's a potential that it's causing false O2 sensor readings, but that's not going to affect idle speed.Best Guess at next step:
Figure out how to fix the exhaust flange leak in hopes that maybe O2 sensor is causing throttle issue.
If that doesn't work - replace IAC
The inconsistencies with your wipers is more than likely not inside the column. 93.725% of the time, caused by a faulty pulse board inside the wiper motor.
They board develop cracks, creating interrupted circuits.
2. Remove ALL cables from throttle lever--throttle cable, cruise cable, transmission TV cable. See if it's still sticky.
... sticky throttle cable.
New cable was only $18 and I broke the old one removing it anyway, but good to know this lube toy exists.Sometimes, all the cable needs is a little lubrication on the locomotion. It's probably never been lubed since the day it rolled off of the assembly line.
I bought one of these for my bikes. Works on vehicles, too. For the price, it's worth a try. Cheaper than the price of a new cable.