4.3L to ?? swap.

[L31MaxExpress]

A worn cylinder wall gets the boring-bar run through it. The result is a slightly-larger bore once the existing wall surface is cut away. You'd buy OVERsize pistons because the cylinder wall diameter is larger.

A worn crank journal gets a grinding wheel touched against it. The result is a slightly-smaller journal once the worn--damaged outer surface of the journal is cut away. You'd buy UNDERsize bearings to account for the smaller diameter of the journal.

I think the confusion is how it is being presented. Pistons are oversize and bearings are undersize. That being said the ID of the undersize bearings are smaller with the metal removed off the crank. The bearing is thicker despite being called under size.

 

[DeCaff2007]

If the bearing is thicker, why does the big end of the connecting rod have to be cut down? This is actually starting to make sense in my mind now. Seems a new crank may be less expensive and less hassle in the long run.... but then that would still require new bearings.

Regardless, the V8 is getting put to the side for now until a winning lottery ticket comes my way.

With that, I tore into the V6 because I wanted to know what was leaking so bad. I was forced to take the damned thing to a car wash since my pressure washer is still down for now. Now, the better question is... what wasn't leaking! The valve covers are either bad, or I just didn't torque the bolts down correctly when I put new gaskets in because I'm pretty sure that's one problem area.

The oil pan gasket... absolutely shot. It didn't even give me a fight coming off.

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While we're at it, might as well tear off the timing cover and inspect the gears and chain. That harmonic balancer did NOT want to come off! DeWalt tools never fail me, though. My impact did the trick after some back and forth action.

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Ugh....

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So, here's a 12 second video of the slop in the timing chain... which YT made me sell a kidney and sign in blood to post. OMG what is wrong with people??? I'm guessing the chain will need to be replaced.

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Well, here we go. This is as far as this is getting torn down, except for the intake manifold. I have a gasket for that, too. Now to decide whether I want to go full cheapo mode on new gaskets and a chain, or toss everything in the back of my truck and SCRAP IT ALL!!!

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[HotWheelsBurban]

If the bearing is thicker, why does the big end of the connecting rod have to be cut down? This is actually starting to make sense in my mind now. Seems a new crank may be less expensive and less hassle in the long run.... but then that would still require new bearings.

Regardless, the V8 is getting put to the side for now until a winning lottery ticket comes my way.

With that, I tore into the V6 because I wanted to know what was leaking so bad. I was forced to take the damned thing to a car wash since my pressure washer is still down for now. Now, the better question is... what wasn't leaking! The valve covers are either bad, or I just didn't torque the bolts down correctly when I put new gaskets in because I'm pretty sure that's one problem area.

The oil pan gasket... absolutely shot. It didn't even give me a fight coming off.

You must be registered for see images attach

While we're at it, might as well tear off the timing cover and inspect the gears and chain. That harmonic balancer did NOT want to come off! DeWalt tools never fail me, though. My impact did the trick after some back and forth action.

You must be registered for see images attach

Ugh....

You must be registered for see images attach

So, here's a 12 second video of the slop in the timing chain... which YT made me sell a kidney and sign in blood to post. OMG what is wrong with people??? I'm guessing the chain will need to be replaced.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Well, here we go. This is as far as this is getting torn down, except for the intake manifold. I have a gasket for that, too. Now to decide whether I want to go full cheapo mode on new gaskets and a chain, or toss everything in the back of my truck and SCRAP IT ALL!!!

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It's 3/4 of a small block, of course it marks its territory with oil and grease when it's old....

 

[DeCaff2007]

It's 3/4 of a small block, of course it marks its territory with oil and grease when it's old....

Yeah.... I'm starting to question why I'm putting so much effort into antiquated garbage.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Update. I found the V8 mounts at the local yard, finally. Same yard truck also had a decent intake manifold with an intact heater hose nipple. I scobbed that right up. Then I found myself tearing off the exhaust manifolds, starter, and the transmission, just to be able to lift the engine with a giant crowbar and support it with a 2x4. That got me access to the mounts I needed.

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The reason everything looks wet is because I ran everything through my parts washer (which I call "The Dunk Tank"). Aluminum intake manifolds are impossible to get 100% clean with just a wire brush, but it'll do.

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As for the V6, I returned all of the gaskets and unused parts that I had bought for it and scrapped the boat anchor. The only thing that remains of that V6 now is the brand spanking new distributor that I had bought earlier. Couldn't return that so I listed it on FB. I don't expect it to ever sell.

As for the V8 crank, I have inquired to several machine shops about what to do with it. Most of them will more than happily take my money and turn the rod journals down. At least one shop said it's easier to just get a new crank kit and have it polished to mach my existing rods... and that may also be the less expensive option. I do not possibly see how it's cheaper to have a 70 lb piece of iron shipped from anywhere (and then have to have it machined anyway), than it is to fix what I already have.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Update. I found the V8 mounts at the local yard, finally. Same yard truck also had a decent intake manifold with an intact heater hose nipple. I scobbed that right up. Then I found myself tearing off the exhaust manifolds, starter, and the transmission, just to be able to lift the engine with a giant crowbar and support it with a 2x4. That got me access to the mounts I needed.

You must be registered for see images attach

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The reason everything looks wet is because I ran everything through my parts washer (which I call "The Dunk Tank"). Aluminum intake manifolds are impossible to get 100% clean with just a wire brush, but it'll do.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

As for the V6, I returned all of the gaskets and unused parts that I had bought for it and scrapped the boat anchor. The only thing that remains of that V6 now is the brand spanking new distributor that I had bought earlier. Couldn't return that so I listed it on FB. I don't expect it to ever sell.

As for the V8 crank, I have inquired to several machine shops about what to do with it. Most of them will more than happily take my money and turn the rod journals down. At least one shop said it's easier to just get a new crank kit and have it polished to mach my existing rods... and that may also be the less expensive option. I do not possibly see how it's cheaper to have a 70 lb piece of iron shipped from anywhere (and then have to have it machined anyway), than it is to fix what I already have.

My buddy put a 3.50" stroke 1-piece rear seal aftermarket crank in his vortec 350 that had spun a rod bearing. He put a good rod and piston in it out of another engine he had laying around that also had a spun bearing. No machine work. Would have liked to have seen him atleast get it balanced but it has been running well for nearly a year now. The 3.50 stroke puts the piston 0.010" higher in the bore giving better quench and more compression from the standard deck height.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Understood. Note, however, that I trust the info given to me by my machine shop of choice. If he says a rod journal is out of tolerance - then it's out of tolerance. I've read that that can also negatively affect oil pressure and ultimately lead to other problems. I'll just as soon get the crank work done for peace of mind and longevity insurance.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I have but a single pic for those following this thread. I finally got around to cleaning the valve stem retainers and such. The valves are still in the bag from being cleaned at the shop. The seals all came in today. I have to finish cleaning the retainer keepers and I'm also waiting on the new springs to come in. I'm almost positive that I threw the old ones out. I was going to get springs from a junkyard, but that would be lateral move.

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In the meantime, I guess I'll get the heads out of the bags they are in and start lapping these valves.

 

[DeCaff2007]

I brought the heads out to see what I can do, what with the lack of valve springs. Shiny!!!

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I did get the valves lapped. It was definitely a learning experience and fun at the same time.

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Even without valve springs, I can still put the seals on. Anyone see the mistake I made here? I'm accepting all criticism, constructive or otherwise.

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Something didn't seem right, so after watching this video, I went back and fixed things.

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The exhaust valve seals DO NOT fit. That's why there's masking tape on the exhaust valves. Strange that the seals don't fit, seeing as how I bought the from Rock Auto with the exact year/make/model as a reference. Hmmm.

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Well, that's it for the time being. I need to figure out why the umbrella seals didn't fit, no matter which valve guide they were on. That's all for tonight. It's Miller time.

 

[Schurkey]

Get a second set of the blue seals, and slap 'em in?

Did you use the lil' plastic condoms on the valve stems when you pushed the seals in place? REALLY easy to rip the seal lips off the seal body if the condoms aren't in place.