1997 K1500, cv boot refurb

[Zelda]

All, I have a lot of miles on my CV half shafts. Outer boots are split on both sides but are not dry, yet. I'm thinking of re-booting both of them inner and outer. Does anyone know if both inner and outer boots are the same size? Does anyone know where I can get THERMOPLASTIC boot kits for my application? Looks like I'll have to buy a clamp tool, any recommendations for the crimp style?
EricTheCarGuy on YouTube has a video on replacing the boots which seems to be fairly comprehensive (to a newbie like me!) here:

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Just had a new L31 installed and am trying to save $s at this point b/c I'm doing all the suspension, steering rubber and other sundry parts (LCA/UCA bushings, U/L ball joints, tie rods, Idler arm bracket, Idler arm, pitman arm, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, ABS pigtails, Bilstein 4600 shocks (front and rear), and probably wheel hubs, and entertaining the notion of getting new cat back exhaust (darn pricey for stainless). Wish I'd had the knowledge and eqpt. needed to do the engine myself and saved money but I've never done quite that deep of a dive before. Hopefully, with a few busted knuckles and a paid for post refurb alignment, I can pull this off.

If you're going to counsel me to "just get new ones", please give your recommendation as to brand. Looked at Napa's Extreme Environment CV axles (have thermoplastic boots) but they don't come w/ the ABS ring and I'd like to keep that operational. Most aftermarket half shafts, whether new or reman (ughh!), have NEOPRENE boots. I've read that the way to go is thermoplastic.

Rockford Constant Velocity cites this: "Rockford's Duraboot is made of a Monsanto blend of special thermoplastic materials which resists temperatures from a frigid low of -65 F up to a scorching high of +475 F. The Duraboot is the ultimate joint protection against variable operating temperatures and destructive road abrasion."
They list the same part number for both inner and outer boots: 816-21, haven't seen a picture of them, and find little info other than a phone #. Any of y'all used these boot kits?

Any and all opinions are welcome, and needed!

 

[grampadirt]

I have two cv axles on my bench that need rebuilding and I think I'll use the Mevotech ones on RockAuto.Keep in mind this is a messy job,that black grease they use is nasty,be sure to wear gloves.I've rebuilt them in the past and remember it as a lot of work.I'd suggest to just fork out the $ and get ones which are already remanned and ready to go in.Trust me you'll thank me later

 

[Schurkey]

We used to re-boot CV shafts years ago. The process pretty-much ended, just like rebuilding starters and alternators. The boot kits cost nearly as much as a replacement axle. The axle has a warranty, the boot kits didn't. The customer didn't want the risk of non-warranty parts. Re-booting CV axles was good work. I liked doing it on any vehicle except a Honda. I was sad when that process died. "NEW" CV axles are almost certainly Communist Chinese and reduced quality.

Way back then, a guy in my home town had a business selling oversized ball bearings for various (popular) CV joints. I don't know if he got readily-available ball bearings that happened to be a few thousandths larger than what was in the various CV joints, or if he had them specially-made. Anyway, they were said to take up the slack in somewhat-worn CV joint bearing races. I haven't seen his advertising for thirty years, I'm sure he's long dead by now.

I have not seen thermoplastic replacement boots for years. I wanted some for my Toronado, and couldn't get 'em.

If you get part numbers for boot kits for GMT400 vehicles, please post 'em.

Buy the right boot kit, and you don't need "special tools" to tighten the clamps. Some clamps need nothing more than a side-cutter and some care. Other clamps are a real pain in the ass even with the special tool(s).

 

[Erik the Awful]

When I was a tech, the "rules" we had were:
1) If an axle's clicking, it's too late. Replace it.
2) If an axle's not clicking boot it.
3) If you boot it, DO NOT clean the axle out. Put some fresh grease right over the dirty grease and throw the boot on. If you clean it out it will start clicking within the next week.

A lot of boots use the same clamps that are used on PEX tubing. I bought that tool several years ago when I replaced some plumbing in my house. Diagonal pliers can be used to pinch them, and I have had success re-using those clamps at the race track, but it's a temporary measure and not as solid as using the correct tool.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Diagonal wire cutters are the best choice for pinching the clamps tight but it's best to use a really dull pair or buy some elcheapos and dull the edges yourself.

 

[Scooterwrench]

When I was a tech, the "rules" we had were:
1) If an axle's clicking, it's too late. Replace it.
2) If an axle's not clicking boot it.
3) If you boot it, DO NOT clean the axle out. Put some fresh grease right over the dirty grease and throw the boot on. If you clean it out it will start clicking within the next week.

A lot of boots use the same clamps that are used on PEX tubing. I bought that tool several years ago when I replaced some plumbing in my house. Diagonal pliers can be used to pinch them, and I have had success re-using those clamps at the race track, but it's a temporary measure and not as solid as using the correct tool.

You don't clean the old grease and grit out? Grease and dirt creates grinding compound. Personally I'd want those parts sterile before I applied new grease.

 

[Zelda]

You don't clean the old grease and grit out? Grease and dirt creates grinding compound. Personally I'd want those parts sterile before I applied new grease.

Thanks for all the tips. Age old should I stay or should I go now! I'm prone to change the grease. "They've" made a lot of headway in the area of lubricants. If the new stuff is too good and the joint starts a' clickin' well, there are a lot of miles on the originals (who's building them like they used to????).
What's the highest grade OEM in CV half shafts for 1997? Oh, how I wish I could find actual OEM as the originals (?) have just under 300K on them w/ no issues except for the split outer boots.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Clean the grease out then dry fit the parts and check for slop. If all is still tight then blow back apart,grease and reassemble with new boots. Remember,cleanliness is better than godliness when rebuilding anything. Dirt kills!!!
I've been out of the car biz since 06 so I got no answer as to where to go for new axles. I never had any luck with rebuilt axles. I think they just clean,grease and reassemble worn out junk with new boots.