1995 Suburban 2500 ABS question

[Shocker]

Hi everyone. First post. I am looking at a 1995 Suburban 2500 MPV (former fire chief truck) with 117,000 miles. It is a nearly full delete rig. One question on the ABS. The light on the dash is on, but there is no RPO code listed for the truck that is has antilock.

JD7 brakes. Is ABS just standard and not listed on the RPO sheet?

Thanks!

PS: I have not bought the rig yet, but wanted to see where I was on that.
PSS: I did search, but no info on that.

 

[grampadirt]

My '95 burb has the same RPO code with no mention of it having 4 wheel anti-lock brakes but I know it does.Your ABS light is on because there is a code that has been set,there's an easy way to find it.

Take a paper clip and bend it into a ''u'' and jump from ''A'' to ''H'' on your ALDL.Turn the key on but don't start the engine.The ABS light should start blinking,count the blinks.It will blink then pause then blink again.So if it's a 24 then it will:blink blink pause blink blink blink blink,it will do this three times.Also,if there are other codes they will come after the first.Keep a tablet & pencil handy to write them down..

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[haggus99]

Wheel bearings are the most likely cause I would love to tell you the job is easy but it is definitely not. On a scale from 1-10 10 being an engine rebuild I would give this job a 7. Wires for the WSS are an issue especially if it was flat in a spots where it attached to the brackets one even pinched no exposed wires but since further reading involves check the voltage output while the hub is turning or using an oscilliscope to measure the output signal replacement is an easier method. Rock Auto has good prices I would go with Timken or skf bearing with WSS included.

Once your in that far you may as well get rebuilt calipers, brake hoses, upper/lower ball joint, tie rod, and upper a-arm bushings then you should be good for another 15 years. Avoid going over size on the tires and if the PO has get rid of them and use stock these bearings don't live long if not treated well. They are sealed so once they go it's time to change them.

some good info for Kelsey-Hayes 4wal which is what the JD7 code is.

http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=45

 

[Shocker]

Ok, I have an OBD 1 reader so I can get the codes for the ABS.

I am working on a part trade for my 1992 Corvette. I just need to figure out what this Burb is worth. It is a 95 former fire chief command truck. White, straight with very few options. No power windows, locks etc. Decent shape with 117k miles. Runs well, drives decent, but it does have a small shimmy at 60mph so that might be explained by the front bearings.

It has dark blue interior in good shape. Vinyl floors, no 3rd row and all the rear interior side panels are not there. Not sure if they are just gone or never installed due to the commercial version. Heat works, A/C needs charged. All gauges work.

It has nearly new BFG AT radials 33x12.50. He bought it direct from the city but it appears to be lifted a bit? Not sure if that is part of the MPV package or what. I will get a pic and you guys can tell me what you think it might be worth.

My 92 Vette is decent and I am asking 6500. I am thinking of the Burb and 4k from him for the Vette.

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[haggus99]

These vehicles eat money real quick especially 4x4. I have already spent more on mine than what I paid. Just letting you know ahead of time look at the build threads on here you will see what I mean.

Not sure about OBD 1 reader for ABS I bought a code/abs reader for 15 at the local store came with a guide book for codes it was GM specific check autozone pepboys I'm sure they have it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OBD-I-Co...ads-ECM-and-ABS-codes-Brand-New-/290901949090

 

[Shocker]

Yes, I agree. I can do all the work myself, but if it needs front bearings and if I follow the mantra of "while I am in there", which I do, I might just move to the D60 SAS.

 

[malones99]

You mention to jump the wires on the ALDL, what is the ALDL?

 

[grampadirt]

It's bascially another name for the DLC(Data Link Connector) and is pictured in the 2nd. post.

 

[great white]

Wheel bearing are going to run about 250 a side in the states for good ones, 125 for lesser names.

Most likely the wires are broken at the retaining clips on the upper A Arms. Common problem. They break after years and years of getting bents back and forth from turning the wheels. Happened to my 98. Rather than replace them, I took the wiring apart, soldered and heat shrinked the thin wires and them re-weatherproofed the hole thing by vulcanizing some rubber over it like OEM. The flashout ABS code will be for unserviceable wheel sensors left and/or right if that's the issue because the ABS module can no longer "see" them.

Calipers, rotors and pads can drive up to 500 bucks in USA bucks quickly.

AC needing charge is probably the infamous (as it's know in AC repair circles) "Belly Leaker" compressor, otherwise known as the "HT6". Here's some pics:

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Type "belly leaker HT6" into Google and be prepared to be shocked at how common a problem it is....

Replacement is the only fix. There's replacement model out there by companies like SANDEN that are a different design and preferred by the AC repair folks. Anything besides a fresh replacement means you'll be looking for a charge again in 1-1.5 months.

Depending on how long it's been sitting flat, it may only need to be pulled down and evacuated or it could mean a replacement of the receiver drier. If you do crack open the AC system to replace the compressor have the shop do the orifice tube also. They're like 4 bucks. But it has a screen on it and they clog up over the years causing your high side to go too high when there's nothing wrong with the system and makes your compressor short cycle. Have them change the high side charge valve also. Again, only a couple bucks but they are a know leak pint on these trucks.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head except for the usual stuff to look for in a used vehicle.

 

[malones99]

So I have a 99 ODB2 suburban, any way to get the ABS light to blink?