Another ABS Bleeding question

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

megatronz0r

Newbie
Joined
May 19, 2023
Messages
23
Reaction score
20
Location
Michigan
I've purchased TWO vehicles where the title VIN number did not match the VIN plate on the vehicle.

In one case, someone had exchanged a "Z" for a "2", and in another I think it was an "I" for a "1". The rest of the numbers matched. The Highway Patrol inspected the cars, issued paperwork, and the title got corrected without much hassle.

In your case, I'd want to compare the VIN plate on the dash to the VIN on the title. There are "secret" VIN numbers stamped into the frame, and perhaps on the cowl/firewall on the lower right side, and probably other places as well. My '92 and '93 Luminas had VIN stickers on the fenders, trunk lid, and other easily-replaced parts.
You were right the vins don’t match not even a little bit

Vin shows 1998 not 1988 which explains a lot. Vincheck says not stolen and not salvaged. I guess I’ll go to the Secretary of State on Monday.
 
Last edited:

xXxPARAGONxXx

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2021
Messages
1,322
Reaction score
2,629
Location
Houston, Texas
To no one in particular: any time you purchase a vehicle, always compare the VIN on the title with the VIN on more than one point on the body, such as driver's side dash near window and driver's side door jamb. And God help you if you buy a vehicle without getting the [actual] title from the "owner". You may as well consider yourself having purchased stolen property.
 
Last edited:

Caman96

OEM Baby!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
7,021
Reaction score
13,670
Location
The Hub
To no one in particular: any time you purchase a vehicle, always compare the VIN on the title with the VIN on more than one point on the body, such as driver's side dash near window and driver's side door jab. And God help you if you buy a vehicle without getting the [actual] title from the "owner". You may as well consider yourself having purchased stolen property.
+ Not really knowing what you have makes repairs a nightmare.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
11,230
Reaction score
14,206
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
To no one in particular: any time you purchase a vehicle, always compare the VIN on the title with the VIN on more than one point on the body, such as driver's side dash near window and driver's side door jamb. And God help you if you buy a vehicle without getting the [actual] title from the "owner". You may as well consider yourself having purchased stolen property.
I've gotten to where I demand a "Bill of Sale", signed and dated by the seller(s), and I make 'em pull out the driver's license to assure their name matches-up. Two copies--one for me, one for them.

At least that way there's no question about me being involved in vehicle theft, I have documentation for who I got it from, and how much was paid. They have documentation that they're not responsible for the vehicle any more. Everyone's happy.
 
Joined
Nov 18, 2023
Messages
48
Reaction score
5
Location
25510
I recently purchased a 1988 GMC GMT400 Singlec ab Short Bed 2wd that has been frankensteined to say the least. It has a 400sbc, 95 dash and seat and the rest appears to be 88. The guy i bought it from knew absolutely nothing about it.

Driving home i realized how sketchy the brakes really were so I replaced the master cylinder with the NBS model and i did Russell brake hoses.

Now i'm to the bleeding part and i have some sort of Kelsey-Hayes ABS unit that i've read are a nightmare to bleed or need to be taken to a dealer. Ive considered deleting the ABS but ive only found guides videos of the RWAL. I have also read that I can buy a scanner on amazon for about $100 that will bleed to brakes in OBD2 vehicles but with all the hackery on this truck i have no idea if my truck is OBD1 or OBD2.

OBD2 Scanner with ABS Auto Bleed FOXWELL NT630 Plus

So i guess my main questions are:
Did 1988 have this ABS (pictured below) as an available option
Is 1988 OBD1 or OBD2 (pictured below of what it looks like in my truck)
Are there any guides of removing this type of ABS and replacing it with a proportioning valve
Any additional information would be greatly appreciated i'm feeling a little overwhelmed currently.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
This is where things start getting weird... I am currently wasting money trying to figure out this universal Kelsey Hayes 4wal problem we're all having. When I say "weird", my 95 K1500 is OBD1 and we have the EXACT SAME Kelsey Hayes 4wal ABS Pump. We can literally trade. Yours is a 88 yet your diagnostic port is the shape of an OBD2 Port... Mine is the standard OBD1 Square shaped Diagnostic Port. I see where your confusion in "OBD 1or2" is coming from. Although, you are missing pins in that Port. I hope to solve this soon. I'm a fricken sadomasochist when it comes to solving problems.
 

Attachments

  • Diagnostic Port.jpg
    Diagnostic Port.jpg
    329 KB · Views: 8

Caman96

OEM Baby!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
7,021
Reaction score
13,670
Location
The Hub
Some 95 GM cars and some of our trucks have an obd2 port BUT are still obd1. Talk about confusing. :crazy:
 
Last edited:
Top