1995 k1500 5.7 wont crank please help!

[Schurkey]

CS130 rear bearing failures were epidemic. They just ran Too Damn Hot.

The rest of the guts inside--diodes, regulator, etc--were also overheated; but the rear bearing failure was more dramatic.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

Distributor.

 

[reservoir dog]

I have a local guy that rebuilds starters and alternators in a shop behind his house. Much cheaper and better quality than parts store remans or new from Mexico or china. I hope he never retires.

 

[Schurkey]

Distributor.

Huh?

 

[stutaeng]

Huh?

Truck doesn't crank...so you replace the distributer. Makes sense to me! If that doesn't work, you replace the fuel pump. Cut a hole on the bed for easy access, LOL.

 

[Abellmichael]

Ive never seen anything like that either. This truck is my baby i bought it at 17 years old and it was gone for 14 years and i got it back it had not even 20k miles put on it in 14 years. Im doing all i can to bring it back to life. I put over 1000 dollars just in air conditioning on this truck over the past few months. I have almost everything to make it new again its a long process.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

"It made a small grind noise and shut off". Distributors can do that, remove the cap and rotor and , grab the distributor shaft and see if you can move it from side to side. If so, this could be the cause of the noise. Your cap and rotor will show contact as well.

 

[1993GMCC2500SLX]

"It made a small grind noise and shut off". Distributors can do that, remove the cap and rotor and , grab the distributor shaft and see if you can move it from side to side. If so, this could be the cause of the noise. Your cap and rotor will show contact as well.

Ain't nothing like someone running a hydraulic lifter TBI distributor gear on a factory roller cam,ouch I've seen that mess and heard it 3 times,once was a Oldsmobile 307 in a 86 Buick Regal sport coupe a buddy of mine had he kept having to replace the distributor in well I happened to be around him when he was changing the 4th distributor and I said there's your problem this is a roller cam motor they changed over from 85 to the last year 90, anyways he didn't want to go buy a new distributor for it so he kept buying a olds 260 v8 distributors from the junkyard and using them until the car would make a horrendous grinding and refuse to fire.. and another example I'd seen of that is a family member of mine swapped his 98 Tahoe over to carburetor and kept chewing up the distributor gear and buying a new one from summit racing. He was running a gm replacement HEI SBC distributor for a 79 Chevy truck. Roller cam distributor gear are a different metal usually bronze or brass

 

[Schurkey]

GMT400 TBI and other "Small-Cap HEI" distributors have a main shaft that's smaller in diameter than the "Big-Cap HEI" distributors.

ALL small-cap TBI HEI distributor gears are suitable for roller-cam use. They're all Melonized for compatibility.

BIG-cap "Coil-in-Cap" distributors and older inline 6 and inline 4 distributors need a replacement gear. GM sells a Melonized gear for exactly that purpose for the Chevy V-8 and 90-degree V-6 engines, I suppose there's a similar Melonized gear for other engine families that would have had a steel roller cam in their production lifetime--although I'd expect that those gears are now discontinued for everything but the Chevy engines due to lack of demand.

Bronze (not brass) distributor gears are "sacrificial", they wear out over time and they put bronze shavings into the oil. Cheap bronze gears wear quickly, good bronze gears wear quite slowly.

There are also plastic gears. Originally, they were sold for dry-sump applications because they couldn't take the added load of the oil pump. Now guys are using them with stock wet-sump oil pumps, and getting by with it, at least for awhile.

 

[1993GMCC2500SLX]

And the ect sensor I have from O'Reilly's is master pro 8-8296