Onizukachan
Great Teacher
Well first failure and fixes are done.
wife’s first ride in it, the front passenger door decided it was just gonna stay unlatched… she had to hold it closed on the way back from the store. still not 100% what it was, but releasing the tension on the rods by removing the bolts and letting the latch dropped resolved the won’t latch closed… then I had the opposite issue. Could not get it to unlatch. Finally got the solenoid working again, seems it also got stuck and had to cycle it and lubricate it, then it smoothed right out and worked 100%.
also lubricated and cleaned a bunch of old grease filled dirt out of the latch mechanism. It is smooth now as well.
finally since the rear ones are not set up right now for remote (have to find the brain, figure out what it is and figure out how to set it to unlatch all with button combo or similar) I stole the better performing popper off the rear door and moved it to the front, amd the less effective one to the rear. Now the passenger pops enough to clear the latch Just like the drovers does.
second fix was the stereo cut out on Saturday after a bump so I went lookino for power & ground, loose turn on wires, found two amps under the backseat and no room to muck without pulling seat, Got my Brain in gear finally and got out the fluke and started checking grounds at amps, fine, power to amps, none, turn on fine. Kept back tracking and found a fused distro being fed by an absolutely massive 000 gauge wire. No power no blown fuses, ok, must be the up front fuse…
could not find the dang cable up there!
it was hidden in plain sight, they wrapped it on the split foam oem used over AC lines and it was routed in that sort of Zig zag way a hard line would have been. It was cosmetically nicely terminated and routed.
Cosmetically nice.
they didn’t use a larger enough crimp fitting/ compression fitting so the last half inch was corroded and the wire had literally fallen out of the terminal. The heat shrink was holding it up and hiding it from sight… but no connection. The copper was separated, divorced and packing to move to another zip code From the terminal.
For now I cut the last inch off with dremel and cutting wheel, removed jacket 1/2 back and carefully reattached their wrong size cable terminal for now.
There was no breaker or fuse on it and they were trying to squeeze a 4ga terminal onto a 2/0 or 3/0 wire. That’s gonna get corrected ASAP on Thursday because that is a fire/ safety hazard if that wire were ever pinched to ground.
finally to close out this post, I have an oddball part to find
wood cover/ veneer for a drivers side work truck/ base/ no power lock interior door handle .
I have 3 and actually like them, think they look pretty decent and fit the vibe I’m going for.
But drivers is missing. I originally thought they were Escalade but being non power lock they aren’t.
if anyone peeled one off their former conversion truck or runs Across one at the junkers in decent shape, please let me know. Otherwise I will have to ditch the other 3.
see pic of passenger side one.
wife’s first ride in it, the front passenger door decided it was just gonna stay unlatched… she had to hold it closed on the way back from the store. still not 100% what it was, but releasing the tension on the rods by removing the bolts and letting the latch dropped resolved the won’t latch closed… then I had the opposite issue. Could not get it to unlatch. Finally got the solenoid working again, seems it also got stuck and had to cycle it and lubricate it, then it smoothed right out and worked 100%.
also lubricated and cleaned a bunch of old grease filled dirt out of the latch mechanism. It is smooth now as well.
finally since the rear ones are not set up right now for remote (have to find the brain, figure out what it is and figure out how to set it to unlatch all with button combo or similar) I stole the better performing popper off the rear door and moved it to the front, amd the less effective one to the rear. Now the passenger pops enough to clear the latch Just like the drovers does.
second fix was the stereo cut out on Saturday after a bump so I went lookino for power & ground, loose turn on wires, found two amps under the backseat and no room to muck without pulling seat, Got my Brain in gear finally and got out the fluke and started checking grounds at amps, fine, power to amps, none, turn on fine. Kept back tracking and found a fused distro being fed by an absolutely massive 000 gauge wire. No power no blown fuses, ok, must be the up front fuse…
could not find the dang cable up there!
it was hidden in plain sight, they wrapped it on the split foam oem used over AC lines and it was routed in that sort of Zig zag way a hard line would have been. It was cosmetically nicely terminated and routed.
Cosmetically nice.
they didn’t use a larger enough crimp fitting/ compression fitting so the last half inch was corroded and the wire had literally fallen out of the terminal. The heat shrink was holding it up and hiding it from sight… but no connection. The copper was separated, divorced and packing to move to another zip code From the terminal.
For now I cut the last inch off with dremel and cutting wheel, removed jacket 1/2 back and carefully reattached their wrong size cable terminal for now.
There was no breaker or fuse on it and they were trying to squeeze a 4ga terminal onto a 2/0 or 3/0 wire. That’s gonna get corrected ASAP on Thursday because that is a fire/ safety hazard if that wire were ever pinched to ground.
finally to close out this post, I have an oddball part to find
wood cover/ veneer for a drivers side work truck/ base/ no power lock interior door handle .
I have 3 and actually like them, think they look pretty decent and fit the vibe I’m going for.
But drivers is missing. I originally thought they were Escalade but being non power lock they aren’t.
if anyone peeled one off their former conversion truck or runs Across one at the junkers in decent shape, please let me know. Otherwise I will have to ditch the other 3.
see pic of passenger side one.
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