“CrewCad” Resto /Newstalgia 95 c3500 454 CCLB Dually thread.

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Onizukachan

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Well first failure and fixes are done.

wife’s first ride in it, the front passenger door decided it was just gonna stay unlatched… she had to hold it closed on the way back from the store. still not 100% what it was, but releasing the tension on the rods by removing the bolts and letting the latch dropped resolved the won’t latch closed… then I had the opposite issue. Could not get it to unlatch. Finally got the solenoid working again, seems it also got stuck and had to cycle it and lubricate it, then it smoothed right out and worked 100%.
also lubricated and cleaned a bunch of old grease filled dirt out of the latch mechanism. It is smooth now as well.
finally since the rear ones are not set up right now for remote (have to find the brain, figure out what it is and figure out how to set it to unlatch all with button combo or similar) I stole the better performing popper off the rear door and moved it to the front, amd the less effective one to the rear. Now the passenger pops enough to clear the latch Just like the drovers does.

second fix was the stereo cut out on Saturday after a bump so I went lookino for power & ground, loose turn on wires, found two amps under the backseat and no room to muck without pulling seat, Got my Brain in gear finally and got out the fluke and started checking grounds at amps, fine, power to amps, none, turn on fine. Kept back tracking and found a fused distro being fed by an absolutely massive 000 gauge wire. No power no blown fuses, ok, must be the up front fuse…

could not find the dang cable up there!


it was hidden in plain sight, they wrapped it on the split foam oem used over AC lines and it was routed in that sort of Zig zag way a hard line would have been. It was cosmetically nicely terminated and routed.

Cosmetically nice.

they didn’t use a larger enough crimp fitting/ compression fitting so the last half inch was corroded and the wire had literally fallen out of the terminal. The heat shrink was holding it up and hiding it from sight… but no connection. The copper was separated, divorced and packing to move to another zip code From the terminal.

For now I cut the last inch off with dremel and cutting wheel, removed jacket 1/2 back and carefully reattached their wrong size cable terminal for now.
There was no breaker or fuse on it and they were trying to squeeze a 4ga terminal onto a 2/0 or 3/0 wire. That’s gonna get corrected ASAP on Thursday because that is a fire/ safety hazard if that wire were ever pinched to ground.




finally to close out this post, I have an oddball part to find


wood cover/ veneer for a drivers side work truck/ base/ no power lock interior door handle .

I have 3 and actually like them, think they look pretty decent and fit the vibe I’m going for.

But drivers is missing. I originally thought they were Escalade but being non power lock they aren’t.



if anyone peeled one off their former conversion truck or runs Across one at the junkers in decent shape, please let me know. Otherwise I will have to ditch the other 3.

see pic of passenger side one.
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Onizukachan

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Good looking truck, I too like the wood around the handles. Those look like f250 seats? Maybe? It’ll be cool to see it come back to life.
they absolutely are mot OEM to anything)g except JC Whitney.

they rode ok, have that excessive cushioning max bounce like air seats on big rigs, but you can tell they are chintzy, especially if you look at the adjusters on the recline or fore aft.
 

Onizukachan

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Well it failed inspection for a variety of BS, but a couple of items that were legit.
CHSL was out, it had El cheapo eBay style leds in it and they were crumbling to pieces, replaced with a set of sylvania ziso LEDs, and apparently the parking brake cable is disconnected at the connector/ juncture under the cab left side. I pulled as dang hard as I could and was still an inch shy of being able to reconnect it, does someone have to hold the release while you do it or do you have to spin the adjuster almost off then retighten after cable is reconnected?
I think if I can fix that I can get someone to pass it.

that and tint being too dark (I agree, can’t see out of it at night) we’re the only valid concerns
 

Onizukachan

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I did the double vice grip thing, pull then tighten other across an opening to hold. Pull with that one, then lock again, pull it with that one etc. back and forth. eventually got the two or so inches I needed. But that last 1/2“ was a primo bear to get.

changed the CHSLs but can’t change cargo lights to LED cause I can’t get enough grip on the incandescent to get them out. Will try again another day.

figure if it take it to get legal tint on side windows they’ll remove the new (but way too damn dark for night driving) tint so win win. Also will be nice not have such a huge difference between front and sides when driving.


I did go ahead and get the double din I wanted tonight, and figured out why I had no fader… they were splitting a single set of outputs to run front and rear inputs On the amp. I pulled the rear RCAs for now so it doesn’t blow my kids ears out to get it loud enough to hear in the front.

will run another set when I install the new head unit.

will probably do that, new ac controls, Esky cluster and Esky surround all at once so I only have to go in there one single time.
 
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Onizukachan

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Well, Esky cluster, Esky dash surround (with fog switch I need and pigtail ) Tahoe/burb ac controls to get defrost button, standard power mirrors with heated glass to get rid of the giant 747 dumbo ears, two sets of Savanna knobs so can convert the ac controls plus the headlight knob as well and have a couple spares, and the micro bypass for the as yet to be installed avh2550 and xm tuner are all ordered.

missed out on a set of Silverado crew cab seats locally. But truth is I’d rather have two sets of pick up seats so that I still have recline in the rear. that is the one thing I do like about the current bench conversion(s). Kids like the no center seat or consille up front so they have the walkway like an airliner, but I’d rather have a console than jump seat in front.
sadly I’m 20 years later to the Escalade console party.

Feed back requested. considering drilling the roll pan for a flush mount rear camera left of license recess, instead of the current one mounted on bottom of flip up plate so it could be useful when backing up to a trailer as well. when eventually i Do need to do so.
also what rise tow ball are people using with a 6/8 drop? 5” drop aka 3.5 rise?

also considering an overhead console and suburban rear map lights, but with CarPlay I don’t really need homelink anymore, and I don’t think there are any monitor kits anymore for the rearmost flip down section like there were 2 decades ago so it would be relatively pointless.

I ordered power mirrors because later I would like to retrofit control even as just a joystick/ dpad on the lower dash, and I can still move them manually for the moment. Better to plan ahead than buy something twice!


don’t remember if I shared this pic of it in the rain, aka can’t tell the clear coat is gone so it looks good, but here it is.
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HotWheelsBurban

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My truck has recline feature on the rear seat (which I think is a front seat, just a one piece unit instead of the 60/40 split bench like the front seat is). Basically the center part has the shorter back that could fold down, and the left and right sides have the seat back with headrest and shoulder belts, and I think the back reclines if you have the base moved forward. I know the back will come forward if I move the lever, cause I keep a folding stool and some other things behind the seat. The base is moved all the way back, so I have more foot room. I'll have to move the seat up sometime (when I don't have tools on the floorboards LoL) and see if it actually does recline like the front one!
 

Stumpy

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Trailer height will determine what size drop/rise you need. I have four different trailers, and need three different ball mounts, to take care of them.
 
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