Stock lm7 turbo build

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RDF1

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Looking at a lm7 tomorrow with 100,000 miles and it’s $400. Comes with everything including all of the accessory drive.

Is it a good idea or should I stick to the lq’s?
I usually go for the 5.3s since they are half the price of the 6.0s here. And boost doesn't care about engine size. A 78mm turbo can only push a certain amount of air wether its a 4.8 or a 6.2 it will make the same amount of power.
 

RDF1

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okay and how do torque converters work and is a expensive one really needed.
The torque converter will make or break a setup.
If you stay with the stock converter you will be sacrificing some of your 1/4 mile time.
I've done some testing with stock 4l80 torque converter then swapped it out for a circle d billet converter that was made for the truck setup and the same amount of boost/power and it dropped almost 1 second in the 1/4 mile.
 

Romanheystek

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The torque converter will make or break a setup.
If you stay with the stock converter you will be sacrificing some of your 1/4 mile time.
I've done some testing with stock 4l80 torque converter then swapped it out for a circle d billet converter that was made for the truck setup and the same amount of boost/power and it dropped almost 1 second in the 1/4 mile
That’s interesting okay thank you. I think I’m going to pick up the lm7 tmr it looks like a pretty great deal but who knows until I open it up.
 

Romanheystek

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I guess I didn’t see this on the first look but that doesn’t look good. Is that just a bad head gasket or is it a cracked cylinder head or something?
 

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Drunkcanuk

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I guess I didn’t see this on the first look but that doesn’t look good. Is that just a bad head gasket or is it a cracked cylinder head or something?
I'm not a genius by any means, but to me, looks like an exhaust gasket leak.
And if I'm wrong, someone will surely correct me and provide you with the right answer.
 

Sean Buick 76

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You can see from the photo that the exhaust manifold bolts on both side of #2 cylinder port are broken. Looks like the bolt heads broke off so it’s not too hard to remove the remaining parts of the bolts in most cases. The problem is that running the engine with such a bad exhaust leak can actually torch the metal around the port leading to a future leak if enough material is removed. A scotch bright pad and a straight edge should tell you if there is damage. I use Remflex gaskets and ARP studs on everything exhaust related and v bands down the line. No leaks.
 

Romanheystek

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You can see from the photo that the exhaust manifold bolts on both side of #2 cylinder port are broken. Looks like the bolt heads broke off so it’s not too hard to remove the remaining parts of the bolts in most cases. The problem is that running the engine with such a bad exhaust leak can actually torch the metal around the port leading to a future leak if enough material is removed. A scotch bright pad and a straight edge should tell you if there is damage. I use Remflex gaskets and ARP studs on everything exhaust related and v bands down the line. No leaks.
Okay then I should be fine. It’s a pretty good deal so I’d say it’s worth it.
 

RDF1

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So I should invest in some arp bolts or can I get away with some level 8 bolts or what ever
I buy 100 of these at a time.
Use them for everything and work good for exhaust manifold bolts. Pretty cheap too for a 10.9 bolt.



ARP's
 
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