So why does the goodwrench motor only have 190HP when my motor has 210?

[Yeti_Owner]

If I had my own shop (which I hopefully will soon), I'd go out and try to run it at 5000 for a few miles. Because then it would be DURAMAX time haha

Lol, I don't think it'd make it that far.

 

[sewlow]

Camshaft: flat tappet hydraulic (.382''/.402'' lift, 165.9°/174.8° at .050'' duration) That's a pretty sad, wussy excuse for a cam! No wonder the engine is only rated @ 210hp. I'd be inclined to get the crate motor, & do a cam swap soon as the engine's outa the box. Along with whatever the TBI mods are, you guys do, & it'd be easy to have a reliable DD that idles smooth (no lumpity-lumpity!) makes an honest 300 -325 HP, & would generate a LOT more torque, which is actually more important in a 4000+ lb. vehicle. Especially 4X4's.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

Camshaft: flat tappet hydraulic (.382''/.402'' lift, 165.9°/174.8° at .050'' duration) That's a pretty sad, wussy excuse for a cam! No wonder the engine is only rated @ 210hp. I'd be inclined to get the crate motor, & do a cam swap soon as the engine's outa the box. Along with whatever the TBI mods are, you guys do, & it'd be easy to have a reliable DD that idles smooth (no lumpity-lumpity!) makes an honest 300 -325 HP, & would generate a LOT more torque, which is actually more important in a 4000+ lb. vehicle. Especially 4X4's.

It would also fail emissions and get worse than stock mileage. And it would also take other mods to get to your HP numbers - intake, exhaust, fuel delivery, etc (read $$$). A cam isn't the only issue. You're looking at heads as well, to get those numbers. Remember a stock Vortec only bumps out 255.

No-go.

 

[ChrisAU]

It would also fail emissions and get worse than stock mileage.

No-go.

Wut? More power means the engine moves the vehicle easier = better mileage. Why would it fail emissions with a mild cam?

 

[Yeti_Owner]

Wut? More power means the engine moves the vehicle easier = better mileage. Why would it fail emissions with a mild cam?

More power doesn't always mean better mileage. It's more a question of a given CFM/Volumetric efficiency and fuel ratio for a given load (IE, say, a truck takes 40 static horsepower to go 55mph, regardless of the engine's potential horsepower) at a certain rpm. As per changing the cam, when you change the overlap and/or lift, you are changing the combustion characteristics and scavenging of the chambers, and unbalancing the calibaration. Things are set up from the factory for a reason, and generally, emissions are the primary concern, all others coming secondary.

You *can* lean one out and, say, get better mileage, but you will raise your Nx emissions by quite a bit, for example. Or you can put in a larger overlap/duration cam, but your HC emissions will spike, as well as the temperature of your catalytic converter.

It gets pretty esoteric and wonky beyond what I've described. The simple fact is, the stock motor is surpisingly clean at 2000-3000 RPM (the stock calibrated maximum efficiency/lowest emissions range), and *barely* passing at idle, from the factory. When they built it, the federal standards for trucks were pretty lax about idle standards. Unfortunately, the county I live in is not.

Throwing mods at it for "MOR POWERRRR" willy nilly is a low probability way to improve emissions at inspection time. Failing to pass emissions inspection=expensive driveway ornament.

Negative, Ghostrider.

 

[TylerZ281500]

if everything funcions as t should and you dont have an extreme build yes it will pass emissions, go on tgo and theres tons of builds with mild cam, nicer heads, high flow cat and they still pass emissions and when they are light footed get the same mpg's if not better.

tbi head suck, they dont even create your fuel to air vaporization correctly, if anything on a tbi the combustion characteristics need to be changed. and that isnt all dependent on heads you also have a certain amount of fuel going into the combustion chamber and theres a certain pecent being utilized and even that has relevance to spark plugs.

wether you believe so or not, more power within sanity and a proper tune utilizing all your fuel tables and such will net you better gas mileage.

they make emissions everything headers, intkes, emissions friendly cams, now if you start tossing stuff together than no it wont run. heres some curiosity though can you actually build an engine? it sounded like you wanted to stay away from that entirely before so my thinking is and yes im assuming but you cant be saying combustion does this and that if you havent actually gotten your hands dirty, looked at a stock cam and inspected it, saw visually the poor excuse these heads are and the like. if you match parts properly and actually know how to put an engine together properly besides talk about the ever so basic functions of each part then anything is possible depending on how smart you want to be about it.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

if everything funcions as t should and you dont have an extreme build yes it will pass emissions, go on tgo and theres tons of builds with mild cam, nicer heads, high flow cat and they still pass emissions and when they are light footed get the same mpg's if not better.

tbi head suck, they dont even create your fuel to air vaporization correctly, if anything on a tbi the combustion characteristics need to be changed. and that isnt all dependent on heads you also have a certain amount of fuel going into the combustion chamber and theres a certain pecent being utilized and even that has relevance to spark plugs.

wether you believe so or not, more power within sanity and a proper tune utilizing all your fuel tables and such will net you better gas mileage.

" mild cam, nicer heads, high flow cat " = $$$
"more power within sanity and a proper tune utilizing all your fuel tables and such"=$$$

"if everything funcions as t should and you dont have an extreme build yes it will pass emissions" = Show me the tailpipe numbers, the mileage results, and the money it cost to do the build.

 

[sewlow]

it would also take other mods to get to your HP numbers - intake, exhaust, fuel delivery, etc (read $$$).

I WOULD do that!!! But that's me! I can't leave things well enough alone. Lol! We have emission tests here, too. Sniffer. But, I do not have to take either of my trucks through that B.S. any more. 5000GVW or greater vehicles are exempt. So...I've re-registered both as 5010GVW. The trucks are both 2whldr. RCSB's. They've been modded to tow a trailer! (nudge-nudge, wink-wink) Costs me an extra $100.00/yr. each, on my insurance. Screw 'The Man'! Ha!

 

[TylerZ281500]

I WOULD do that!!! But that's me! I can't leave things well enough alone. Lol! We have emission tests here, too. Sniffer. But, I do not have to take either of my trucks through that B.S. any more. 5000GVW or greater vehicles are exempt. So...I've re-registered both as 5010GVW. The trucks are both 2whldr. RCSB's. They've been modded to tow a trailer! (nudge-nudge, wink-wink) Costs me an extra $100.00/yr. each, on my insurance. Screw 'The Man'! Ha!

LMFAOOO

 

[TylerZ281500]

" mild cam, nicer heads, high flow cat " = $$$
"more power within sanity and a proper tune utilizing all your fuel tables and such"=$$$

"if everything funcions as t should and you dont have an extreme build yes it will pass emissions" = Show me the tailpipe numbers, the mileage results, and the money it cost to do the build.

sorry thats all you got from that, tbi heads suck so our efficient fuel air vaporization story has flwon out the window, the cam is trash as well. not everything factory is perfect or the way to go, there are actualy much better ideas, sometimes it takes taking your tampon out and listening to other people to accomplish it and dont look back.

personally id try to pull an AL