So why does the goodwrench motor only have 190HP when my motor has 210?

[Yeti_Owner]

Tyler - understand I'm not trying to be a dick about this, in any way, but:

tbi heads suck so our efficient fuel air vaporization story has flwon out the window, the cam is trash as well."

The emissions tests at 2500RPM tend to argue against that statement, for the given goals I've stated.

Anyways, compared to other engine designs, *every single GM 350 ever made* sucks as far as efficient fuel/air vaporization goes. I'm just looking for a replacement build that doesn't *suck more*.

there are actualy much better ideas, sometimes it takes taking your tampon out and listening to other people to accomplish it and dont look back.

Cool deal. Show me an engine swap that is *guaranteed* to accomplish these following bullet points, and have numbers to back it up

* Less than or equal to $3,000 dollars, installed and running (including all labor). All reciprocating parts are new, not reconditioned.

* 200,000 mile service life (equal to stock, given stock use profile)

* Equal or better than factory city/highway mileage - (My Yukon averages 16HCity/18-19Highway)

* Equal or better than factory efficiency/emissions at idle and highway loads.

* Meeting these emissions standards: Two-speed idle (TSI) (IE you can't get away with setting the idle at 3000RPM) Idle- CO 1.2% , HC 220PPM.
* And* the following tests:

On-board diagnostic (OBD-I)
Acceleration simulation mode (ASM)

I'll have to grab the last test numbers out of the truck for the numbers it posted last time, and the standards of measurement for those tests, at lunch. <edited to add the latest test numbers on my truck>

- Here they are from 4/1:

Standards are HC<220 , CO2%<1.2, Dilution %>6

HC PPM (High Speed@2327RPM) =38 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =219 (LOL!)
CO% (High Speed@2327RPM) =.37 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =.10
CO2% (High Speed@2327RPM) =14.5 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =14.7
O2% (High Speed@2327RPM) =.4 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =.4
NOx PPM (High Speed@2327RPM) =0.00 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =0.00
Dilution% (High Speed@2327RPM) =14.9 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =14.8

If you can assure me that a specific build that you suggest can meet the above criteria, and have the tangible numbers, not anecdotal information, I'll do it and buy you a six pack.

BTW, what's an "AL" ?

 

[Yeti_Owner]

I WOULD do that!!! But that's me! I can't leave things well enough alone. Lol! We have emission tests here, too. Sniffer. But, I do not have to take either of my trucks through that B.S. any more. 5000GVW or greater vehicles are exempt. So...I've re-registered both as 5010GVW. The trucks are both 2whldr. RCSB's. They've been modded to tow a trailer! (nudge-nudge, wink-wink) Costs me an extra $100.00/yr. each, on my insurance. Screw 'The Man'! Ha!

I wish, lol!

 

[Damn]

Ive built 3 LT1 350 engines for my 95 Camaro when i use to drag race it now i know it's not a TBI 350 but its the closest thing i can compare for you. First and original motor was a 160k mile stocker it averaged around 16-19 in town and about 22 on the highway..and it ran a 13.6@102mph at Famoso speedway in CA. Second engine was a rebuilt stocker with shorty headers,intake and mail order tune and catback car got around 18-20 in town and around 24mpg on the highway and it ran a 13.4@103mph.

Third engine a forged 383 stroker with Total engine airflow 220cc heads 2.0/1.6 valves semi mild camshaft performabuilt stage 2 trans with 3000rpm stall...tuned my me using wideband and tunerpro car dynoed 390rwhp through the stall and rand a mid 12 at the track with stock tires...Car got around 25-27mpg on the highway and around 17 in town.

My only point is engines can be improved and usually as you make an engine more efficient you gain gas mileage as long as you tune for the increase in efficiency regardless if your make more power. And my 383 had all the stock emissions and a high flow cat and it still passed smog with a larger cam.

 

[TylerZ281500]

the 383 in my old truck after it snapped in half, went into a 89 with emissions and everything shorty headers with emissions smog pump ac everything, passed emissions with flying colors. 383, lt1 cam, dart heads proted polished, nicer valve springs, eagle lower end, high flow cat, 3" pipes delta 44 muffler i think, crower rods, double roller timing chain, s10 stall, 700r4 with servos, clutch pacs etc. around 380 hp and 407 tq, and still 15 city 18+ highway with cruise control and all that still functional.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

Ive built 3 LT1 350 engines for my 95 Camaro when i use to drag race it now i know it's not a TBI 350 but its the closest thing i can compare for you. First and original motor was a 160k mile stocker it averaged around 16-19 in town and about 22 on the highway..and it ran a 13.6@102mph at Famoso speedway in CA. Second engine was a rebuilt stocker with shorty headers,intake and mail order tune and catback car got around 18-20 in town and around 24mpg on the highway and it ran a 13.4@103mph.

Third engine a forged 383 stroker with Total engine airflow 220cc heads 2.0/1.6 valves semi mild camshaft performabuilt stage 2 trans with 3000rpm stall...tuned my me using wideband and tunerpro car dynoed 390rwhp through the stall and rand a mid 12 at the track with stock tires...Car got around 25-27mpg on the highway and around 17 in town.

My only point is engines can be improved and usually as you make an engine more efficient you gain gas mileage as long as you tune for the increase in efficiency regardless if your make more power. And my 383 had all the stock emissions and a high flow cat and it still passed smog with a larger cam.

I've never argued that point

My question is this:

Can anyone put together a build that will do the following:

* Less than or equal to $3,000 dollars, installed and running (including all labor). All reciprocating parts are new, IE the engine is factory new, not reconditioned.

* 200,000 mile service life (equal to stock, given stock use profile)

* Equal or better than factory city/highway mileage - (My Yukon averages 16HCity/18-19Highway)

* Equal or better than factory efficiency/emissions at idle and highway loads.

* Meeting these emissions standards: Two-speed idle (TSI) (IE you can't get away with setting the idle at 3000RPM) Idle- CO 1.2% , HC 220PPM.
* And* the following tests:

On-board diagnostic (OBD-I)
Acceleration simulation mode (ASM)



Standards are HC<220 , CO2%<1.2, Dilution %>6

HC PPM (High Speed@2327RPM) =38 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =219 (LOL!)
CO% (High Speed@2327RPM) =.37 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =.10
CO2% (High Speed@2327RPM) =14.5 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =14.7
O2% (High Speed@2327RPM) =.4 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =.4
NOx PPM (High Speed@2327RPM) =0.00 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =0.00
Dilution% (High Speed@2327RPM) =14.9 (Low Speed @ 657RPM) =14.8

 

[Yeti_Owner]

the 383 in my old truck after it snapped in half, went into a 89 with emissions and everything shorty headers with emissions smog pump ac everything, passed emissions with flying colors. 383, lt1 cam, dart heads proted polished, nicer valve springs, eagle lower end, high flow cat, 3" pipes delta 44 muffler i think, crower rods, double roller timing chain, s10 stall, 700r4 with servos, clutch pacs etc. around 380 hp and 407 tq, and still 15 city 18+ highway with cruise control and all that still functional.

Cool - including parts and labor, was it less than 3,000 dollars, and what emissions standards was it tested to?

 

[TylerZ281500]

$2600, california standards. it wasnt required that it had to be tested at all guy i sold it to decided to dyno it when it was in his truck and see if it could past california emission specs.

he kept sending pictures of the sheet for the dyno and emissions stuff and then he later on screwed me over on the whole thing.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

So the engine, exhaust, heads, bearings, accessories, and labor (including pulling the old engine and installing the new one) were $2600 dollars, and it ran on 87 octane?

 

[TylerZ281500]

i pulled it, put it in assembled it, cleaned it, bearings, gaskets, etc were summit rebuild kit nothing special, exhaust was around 150 i think on summit other parts i shopped around for the best deals i could get, as well as thoroughly checked what parts i was putting into for compatibility so i could see if i had another less expensive option to go with. shop did the slight bore, pressed wrist pins, balanced, etc, i cleaned it, clearanced the block.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

Questions:

Where did you get the 383 block?
What did you have for fuel metering? Carb, TBI, TPI, MPI, etc?