So why does the goodwrench motor only have 190HP when my motor has 210?

[Yeti_Owner]

The torque specs are the same (300). So why does a 93 Yukon L05 spec out at 210, when the crate goodwrench motor that fits 88-94 has 20 less horsepower? Was there some sticker creativity happening with GM when they rated the 93 350's, or is there an internal difference between the original motor and the crate replacement?

 

[TylerZ281500]

from my experience gm has always lowballed their hp numbers we beat the crap out of a vette at the proving grounds dynoed it and all and it made 50 more hp than its listed as.

personally i enjoy building engines id pick up a good set of higher compression pistons some better heads and and supporting mods and call it a day unless your gonna try to revv it some more than a nicer crank and rods would also be beneficial.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

If/when I do an engine swap, I'd like to not monkey around with it, but do a crate motor. It has to pass emissions, bolt in, get the same mileage, and run correctly with all accessories. I suppose I could start thinking about a 96 vortec crate w/the assorted EGR plumbing, exhaust manifold, and adapter manifold, but that's a stretch.

Are you saying that the crate numbers are lowballed, or that the factory motor is lowballed?

 

[TylerZ281500]

run a carbd maniold with a tbi adapter, shorty heads with emissions otherwise a vortec head swap would be utterly pointless. where do you live that you need egr and stuff exactly? a little of both, i have friends who have had the money to piss away a new engine and the number sometimes are more than said to be or less. personally if something is labeled as 190hp i would not be looking into swapping that into my truck. id be looking at something with more juice than stated from the factory engine in your vehicle because that means less effort to make your vehicle move, less time on the go go pedal etc. i got the same if not better fuel mileage with my 383 than my old 350, got better with a heads, cam, and stroked 305 than the original 305. you just have to keep your foot off the throttle all the time.

id look more into a zz4 or this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19210007/overview/make/chevrolet

either way you can build an engine for a comparable if not cheaper price than both of those.

 

[Yeti_Owner]

run a carbd maniold with a tbi adapter, shorty heads with emissions otherwise a vortec head swap would be utterly pointless. where do you live that you need egr and stuff exactly? a little of both, i have friends who have had the money to piss away a new engine and the number sometimes are more than said to be or less. personally if something is labeled as 190hp i would not be looking into swapping that into my truck. id be looking at something with more juice than stated from the factory engine in your vehicle because that means less effort to make your vehicle move, less time on the go go pedal etc. i got the same if not better fuel mileage with my 383 than my old 350, got better with a heads, cam, and stroked 305 than the original 305. you just have to keep your foot off the throttle all the time.

I cannot run a carb. If you meant a carb manifold with the TBI adapter, I'd rather just use the GM manifold.
It has to pass emissions, including having a factory EGR, catalytic converter, etc. That will not change until it is 24 years old, then it's exempt. I want the same/better mileage and the same/better power. While what you say about it working harder/less hard is somewhat valid, I'd argue that the LS05 and Vortec motors have a specific intake/combustion chamber design, in conjunction with a specific cam profile, to promote efficient combustion at low RPM/highway speeds. While the absolute/peak output may be lower than a custom setup, the overall efficiency for normal usage is expressly engineered and balanced, from the airfilter sizing to swirl vaporization, to exhaust pulse/scavenging timing.

I'd prefer a new crate motor over a remanufactured one. The GM recommended crate engine for my truck has a description listing it as 190HP. My OE engine is rated at 210. I'd like to know why it is different.

The only reason I mentioned a vortec motor is that the head design is efficient enough using the GM TBI conversion manifold, one 96 exhaust manifold, and a tubing adapter. The crate vortec motor is cheaper, but the assorted adapted items bump it up to about 300 dollars more than the crate LS05 replacement engine. While it would not have 255hp, it would be at least equal to, if not greater than, the stock engine in output, and it would get equal/better mileage *and* also pass emissions.

 

[TylerZ281500]

i get what your saying but a 190hp engine for over 2k is worthless in my books when i can dbuild a 400hp 383 for 2600 and still get 14mpg city with a light foot.

post a link to the engine your referring too. a carb manifold with a tbi adapter can all still be emissions friendly with headers with emissions tubees on it as well. you can make a nice emissions friendly but peppy engine. instead of being stuck with 190hp and equivilant torque pushing a 4k lb SUV

 

[Yeti_Owner]

i get what your saying but a 190hp engine for over 2k is worthless in my books when i can dbuild a 400hp 383 for 2600 and still get 14mpg city with a light foot.

Understood. I don't need 400hp. I get 19 highway. I want a new engine, not a remanufactured or rebuilt one, when I drop the cash for it. It's cool you've got a 400hp engine. I want a motor that will run for 200,000 miles and pass emissions. Different goals and uses.

I'd also like to know what the differences are between the L05 motor in my truck, and the GM Goodwrench crate motor that replaces it, to cause the disparity in output.

 

[TylerZ281500]

its all in how you build it and the parts used. your crate engine may only last a few thousand miles. a crate engine may still have the flaws of a stock engine with tty head bolts and all that. if your getting 19mpg highway then i see no problem with leaving the stock engine alone, whats your want to replace it is it bad? sbc's arent too hard to repair and very low cost. whatre you worried about in rebuilding one?

i understand your thought about fuel and air vaporization in your previous post but then youd like to run just crappy manifolds. no matter how youd like to see that stock is better for your goals in a sense its not your exhaust is limiting you, some stuff in a factory engine does limit both power and economy.

for example, at 100k we rebuilt my friend 98 vortec, boosted the compression bored it out to 355 new close to factory spec cam, and some slight port work and a dyno tune. not a ton into the build besides bearings gaskets, pistons a cam and your fluids. nothing special about the engine at all except were past 300k with the rebuild and it still drives like new and functions like new with all the emissions, rev limiters, stock bottom end etc.

like i said post a link to the engine your looking at

either way your 210 rated hp is probably actually 190-195ish as its being comprimised. tbi came with 9.5 and like 8.3 compression you can tell by vin its A and K i believe but i dont remember which is which

 

[Yeti_Owner]

It's a "K" vin, factory says 210/300.

The crate motor in question:

https://sdparts.com/details/gm-goodwrench-replacement-engines/12568758

As far as replacement goes, I'm planning ahead for the future - It's ok now (runs 25-30psi idle, about 55psi at 65), but who knows when something will go south. As far as I know, it's got 213,000 miles on it. There isn't some crystal ball out there that will tell me when it's going to spin a bearing, burn a valve, throw a rod through the block, etc. lol. I'd rather a factory built new motor, if and when it comes time.

 

[454ss]

they may be using hd applications as a universal replacement. under 8600gvw was 210 hp and over was 190 hp. the difference was the cam was smaller in the 4 bolt main hd engines to lower the tq curve for towing, so they made less peak hp but more usable tq lower in the rpm range.