4.3L to ?? swap.

[DeCaff2007]

Brand of head gasket? I really don't know. It was whatever came bundled in the engine gasket kit from Rock Auto.

Yeah, about that copper sealer... I've never not used copper gasket sealer. Never had a problem. Are you guys saying I'm going to end up pulling those heads back off?

The head bolts: Yes, thread sealant on every last one. I use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on pretty much everything. Again, no problems.

As for the rocker arms, I don't know the answer to your question there, @Schurkey, however, I went to gmpartsdirect.com and found the OEM part number (which is 10089648). Then, I copy/paste that part number into Rock Auto. Same with the push rods.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I went to gmpartsdirect.com and found the OEM part number (which is 10089648). Then, I copy/paste that part number into Rock Auto. Same with the push rods.

Generally, aluminum heads are taller so, you need longer push rods. Did you check the pattern of the rocker on the valve stem? It may not matter in your case, just an FYI. YMMV

 

[Schurkey]

Brand of head gasket? I really don't know. It was whatever came bundled in the engine gasket kit from Rock Auto.

Yeah, about that copper sealer... I've never not used copper gasket sealer. Never had a problem. Are you guys saying I'm going to end up pulling those heads back off?

Were there instructions with the gaskets?

No, don't pull the heads back off. Run it, see what happens. Probably OK.

The head bolts: Yes, thread sealant on every last one. I use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on pretty much everything. Again, no problems.

Again, should be OK.

As for the rocker arms, I don't know the answer to your question there, @Schurkey, however, I went to gmpartsdirect.com and found the OEM part number (which is 10089648). Then, I copy/paste that part number into Rock Auto.

You found a part number ON THE ROCKER ARMS?

Did the original rockers have a rib on either side of where the valve tip sits? Amazon shows that part number as being a self-guiding/self-aligning rocker arm.

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Same with the push rods.

Was this a flat-tappet engine to start with, or was it a roller-cam engine that got flat-tappets when you put it together? Huge difference in the length of the pushrods.

IDEALLY, pushrods are the LAST thing you buy to assemble a short-block, so that the exact pushrod length can be determined (within .025, since pushrods are shelf-stock in .050 lengths.) But stock length for a flat-tappet cam is probably good enough in this case.

 

[DeCaff2007]

No instructions with the head gaskets. Oddly, the ARP head bolts DID come with instructions, which is how I knew use thread sealant.

Yes, I know. I went through the push rod length nonsense when I built my Pontiac 400. I even have 2 different tools to measure the length. That engine purrs like a kitten, so I must have done something right.

This block was NOT roller equipped when disassembled. Had it been, I would have kept it that way.

As for the rocker arm part number, I found it on the aforementioned website. Not sure if they are self-aligning. Sorry, but I haven't been paying much attention to detail lately.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Looky what came in today

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@Schurkey, new rockers and the old.

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Everything installed. Nothing is torqued down yet, though. I looked in the service manual to see how to do that and the procedure is vague at best. I'll go back through and adjust the valve lash, unless someone has a suggestion on a better way to do this?

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I checked on the ship date of my aluminum heads. Now they are on back order until August. Might never show up. I should start formulating a backup plan.

 

[tayto]

This block was NOT roller equipped when disassembled. Had it been, I would have kept it that way.

your block is a roller block and even has the bosses machined and tapped for the "spider". not sure what you mean by roller equipped, but it would have been extremely easy to convert at this time with no block modifications.

 

[DeCaff2007]

your block is a roller block and even has the bosses machined and tapped for the "spider". not sure what you mean by roller equipped, but it would have been extremely easy to convert at this time with no block modifications.

Well, when I tore the block down, there were no roller components at all. Flat tappet only. Could I have upgraded? Yes. I chose not to because this isn't going to be a performance engine.

 

[Schurkey]

I chose not to because this isn't going to be a performance engine.

How about the reliability issues with flat-tappet cams and lifters? The lifter market today is a disaster; even the "good" lifter company is having problems.

There's potential problems with roller cams and roller lifters...but certainly not as severe as the flat-tappet section of the business.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Well, it is what is it, but to be honest when I saw the price of a roller cam and associated lifters, it was sticker shock.

Yeah... after how much $$ I've thrown into this chunk of iron already....

Digressing.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'm a cheap basturd, and I won't build a flat-tappet any more. I'm currently building my $150 350, and I nabbed a factory Vortec roller cam and bits to put in it. The Vortec cam's no bigger than the L98 cam that it had in it, and that cam was completely broken in, but I still won't risk it.