2000 Crew Cab Dually “Waylon”

[andy396]

LOL, yeah! Safe to say that wheel isn’t providing any braking. It’s honestly not that hard of a fix. Sure will be messy though!

 

[Supercharged111]

It's more of an asspain on the dually since the backing plate is right up against the leaf springs.

 

[JSlezak83]

It's more of an asspain on the dually since the backing plate is right up against the leaf springs.

I’ve never been inside a 14B before, so educate me on that.

My understanding is that you unbolt the flange, pull the axle, then undo the spindle nut and the hub/drum comes off. Then the seal is in the backside of the hub? I come from the land of 7.5” 10 bolts, so this is all new to me.

Parts are in the mail. The new radiator showed up yesterday; man that thing is huge. Flange seal and axle seal should be here by Friday. I think I’m going to attempt the seal in my driveway this weekend. Wife wants me to go to a wedding, so this seems like the perfect reason not to.

 

[andy396]

I’ve never been inside a 14B before, so educate me on that.

My understanding is that you unbolt the flange, pull the axle, then undo the spindle nut and the hub/drum comes off. Then the seal is in the backside of the hub?

I had to look it up in the manual out of curiosity since @Supercharged111 said it was more of an asspain. Assuming you have the 11" ring gear being a DRW, the procedure is a little different for some reason, but the components look basically the same.

"Rear Axle Description
General Description
These trucks use various rear axles. The axles can be identified by the ring gear size in inches, by manufacturer (American Axle Manufacturing or Dana) and by the type of axle shaft used (semi-floating or full-floating). American Axle Manufacturing axles include the 8 1/2, 8 5/8, 9 1/2, and 10 1/2 inch ring gear axle. Dana supplies an 11 inch ring gear axle. The locking differential is supplied by Eaton.

Wheel Bearing Adjustment (11 Inch Ring Gear Axle)
Diagnostic Procedure Tools Required
J 2222-C Wheel Bearing Nut Wrench

1. Make sure the brakes are fully released and do not drag.
2. Pull or push the tire at the top back and forth in order to check the wheel bearing play.

• Use a pry bar under the tire as an alternative.
• If the wheel bearing adjustment is correct, movement of the brake drum in relation to the brake backing plate will be
barely noticeable.
• If the movement of the brake drum in relation to the brake backing plate is excessive, adjust the bearings.​

Removal Procedure

1. Raise the vehicle until the wheel spins freely.
2. Remove the axle shaft. Refer to Axle Replacement (11 1/2 In Ring Gear).
3. Remove the retaining ring.
4. Remove the rear wheel bearing axle adjusting nut key.
5. Adjust the adjusting nut.
Tighten
Tighten the adjusting nut to 68 N-m (50 lb ft) with the J 2222-C while rotating the hub assembly.
6. Make sure the bearing cones are seated and in contact with the spindle shoulder.
7. Back off the adjusting nut and retighten the adjusting nut while rotating the hub.
8. Back off the adjusting nut.
9. Retighten the adjusting nut while rotating the hub assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the adjusting nut to 47 N-m (35 lb ft).
10. Back off the adjusting nut 135-150 degrees.​

Installation Procedure

1. Install the lock washer
2. Bend one tang of the retaining washer over a flat of the adjusting nut to a minimum of
30 degrees.
3. Install the outer retaining nut.
Tighten
Tighten the outer retaining nut to a minimum of 88 N-m (65 lb ft)
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
4. Make the final bearing adjustment 0.025-0.25 mm (0.001-0.010 in).
5. Bend one tang of the retaining washer over a flat of the outer nut to a minimum of
60 degrees.
6. Add wheel bearing grease in the bearings.
7. Install the axle shaft. Refer to Axle Replacement (11 1/2 In Ring Gear)."

You must be registered for see images attach

​

The 10.5" procedure didn't have as many adjustments and no mention of adding bearing grease. It's almost like two different companies wrote the procedures, one by GM and one by Dana? Also notice the reference to it as both an 11" and an 11.5" in the same procedure. Way to write a confusing statement. It reads like there's two suppliers of the axles in these trucks, and then at the end, oh, and there's Eaton that supplies the locking diffs. So what did Eaton supply diffs for, just the 11" or all sizes. Meaning there's Eaton diffs in a Dana axle? Not a very well written statement in my opinion!

Good Luck!

 

[Supercharged111]

I was referring to it being tighter back there when you're swapping the wheel cylinders. Undoing the hubs isn't terrible to do. I marked the nuts before removal so I could get the preload where it was. Ended up being the first notch past zero slop.

 

[JSlezak83]

That seems about right for a technical document. We used to have to watch a training video at work about procedures. Guy makes a PBJ sandwich. Ends up taking like 10min when you go by the PBJ procedure.

I’ve got the 10.5” AAM axle. The Dana was in the 3500HDs. So I guess I won’t wear out my ratchet with the tighten, loosen, rinse and repeat process.

Thanks for the heads up about the wheel cylinder. I won’t need to mess with that, but I’ve been eyeballing them for a fluid flush. It doesn’t look like much fun to play in there.

 

[andy396]

I’ve got the 10.5” AAM axle. The Dana was in the 3500HDs. So I guess I won’t wear out my ratchet with the tighten, loosen, rinse and repeat process.

Good to know. In that case, the torque on the axle nut is 50lbs-ft then back off to nearest notch. The axle flange bolts are 110lbs-ft.

 

[JSlezak83]

Did a little reading this morning and it seems the updated two piece seals require a tightening procedure similar to Dana’s. The seals fit very tightly to the spindle, so you have to tighten and loosen several times to ensure the hub is seated all the way.

 

[andy396]

Updated two piece seal for the AAM 10.5”? When did it change?

 

[Supercharged111]

Updated two piece seal for the AAM 10.5”? When did it change?

Mid 97 for all axles.