Ride quality

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Wilecoyote

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inside each end of the leaf springs and in the frame where the rear bracket is mounted. Looks like rockauto sells the brackets w both bushings for the rear and front bushings.

What is " cranked up a little" ?, can you post some pics of your truck? of the suspension from front , is it higher in the front than rear w no load? or squatted?
 
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df2x4

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He says they’re cranked up. So that’s a known problem that causes crappy ride. Resetting to proper Z-Height is the first step before anything else.

I would be inclined to agree. Good shocks will help for sure, but cranking the keys on a 4WD truck is a sure fire way to make it ride harsher. My Suburban is still cranked up an inch or so from when I had some big stupid 18" wheels and tires on it years ago (it was cranked even higher at one point, I was young and dumb) and I'm planning on resetting to factory Z-height shortly after I get new tires installed soon. It's better with factory size wheels and tires, but it still doesn't ride like it used to before I messed with any of it.
 

_nickjoseph

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I would be inclined to agree. Good shocks will help for sure, but cranking the keys on a 4WD truck is a sure fire way to make it ride harsher. My Suburban is still cranked up an inch or so from when I had some big stupid 18" wheels and tires on it years ago (it was cranked even higher at one point, I was young and dumb) and I'm planning on resetting to factory Z-height shortly after I get new tires installed soon. It's better with factory size wheels and tires, but it still doesn't ride like it used to before I messed with any of it.
He says they’re cranked up. So that’s a known problem that causes crappy ride. Resetting to proper Z-Height is the first step before anything else.
I would reset but I wanted to get away for my front end to sit level with the rear and not nose dive
 

df2x4

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How can I do that

2" lowering shackles for the leaf springs will drop the rear level with the front at factory Z-height. Belltech 6400 should be the correct part, you can get them for around $50.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIKAPA

EDIT - Also worth noting that any time you adjust the torsion bars/keys in the front you will need to get the truck aligned.
 

_nickjoseph

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inside each end of the leaf springs and in the frame where the rear bracket is mounted. Looks like rockauto sells the brackets w both bushings for the rear and front bushings.

What is " cranked up a little" ?, can you post some pics of your truck? of the suspension from front , is it higher in the front than rear w no load? or squatted?
Definitely not squatted that’s too ugly. It’s just barely level with the rear maybe a little bit lower. With spare tire and tow package no load
 

95C1500

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My 2wd with new bilsteins, no torsion bars to crank, stock suspension wise, load range c tires at 35 psi, rides like ass. I don't think there is anything else I can do besides live with it or MAYBE a set of leaf springs off a new truck. That's a stretch, but it's the last thing I can think of.
 

stutaeng

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My truck doesn't ride like it used to. I've wondered if the frame is flexing more.

Yeah, that's not likely. If anything, a more flexible frame would make you feel LESS vibrations. The flexing of the frame would act as a spring itself, dampening vibration more.

I mean these things are trucks and by nature, they are not smooth riding.

My DD is a NBS 99 Silverado ECSB. It had the regular P series tires when I got it. At some point I installed an Add a leaf and it rode bad. The next 2 tire changes I removed the add a leaf, but got LT tires and it rides about the same. A 200 lb load in the bed makes it smoother.

The GMT 400 rides a bit rogher due to the 4 leaf pack on the 1500? I guess that's why GM used 3 leaf packs for GMT 800 1500 series? 4 leafs are a bit stiffer but sag less under load?

My Silverado sags like a SOB with minimal load. I hate that. That's why I bought a GMT K3500 CCLB
 
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