Replacing Vortec fuel pump, pulling bed

[454cid]

My local shop charged $100 to install the pump I bought. Well worth it IMO. He lifted the bed rather than trying to drop the tank straps. I bought a Carter pump which he said is a good brand.

I went to Carter's website, and I got the idea that it's not the same Carter, like maybe the name was sold. I think it was part of Federal-Mogul at one point.

 

[454cid]

I got the quick connects off.... what a pain. I used half of one of the tools, and a pick, to hit the other tabs. I must have worked at it for 20 minutes. I need to figure out something better.

I also got the tank dropped, and installed my first new part.... the rubber exhaust hanger at the tail pipe. I'm not sure ho long the replacement will last. It's all rubber. The original was rubber and steel.

 

[smdk2500]

But what is the correct tool? To me, it looks like GM didn't leave enough room to get the tool in place.

I dont know what the correct tool is. I have yet to own a vehicle that has quick disconnect fuel lines that i have had to take apart. I searched and found this. I don't know if it would work clearence wise or not.

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[454cid]

I was just looking at those on Rockauto. That might do it. Thanks for posting that.... it even mentions GM sending units.

I wish I could easily eliminate those stupid quick connects. At least they don't leak or break like the heater hose quick connect fittings do.

 

[Gibson]

Sorry you, (and many others,) have had to go thru such a hassle,, why GM didn't install a simple access plate is beyond me.
Even for an exposed pickup bed, the factory could have designed something that would work.
I know people who have a Tahoe or Suburban who have removed the carpeting and sawed a hole in the body, and then made a cover panel, rather than drop the tank.
I guess I was lucky, when the pump failed on my '94 K3500 SRW, it was at the dealer,, although the gas tank was full,,, oh well.

 

[smdk2500]

I was just looking at those on Rockauto. That might do it. Thanks for posting that.... it even mentions GM sending units.

I wish I could easily eliminate those stupid quick connects. At least they don't leak or break like the heater hose quick connect fittings do.

Your welcome. There are 2 on amazon that i i did see. There was a normal one and one for close clearance. The close clearence one sounds like the one you will need. I am glad my truck is tbi and does have any of those. I don't know why they went to the quick disconnects from the flared style fittings that the tbi trucks had.

 

[454cid]

Your welcome. There are 2 on amazon that i i did see. There was a normal one and one for close clearance. The close clearence one sounds like the one you will need. I am glad my truck is tbi and does have any of those. I don't know why they went to the quick disconnects from the flared style fittings that the tbi trucks had.

I'm guessing that my hoses are teflon, and the quick connects are usually what are used with that stuff, I guess.... plus faster to do on the assembly line. 98 was the first year for these, which explains why I'm not getting many responses. I actually thought about switching to the older pump, but I can't seem to find out anything about the fittings. I would need to be able to form the end of the steel line properly too.

Today I got everything power washed. It's been awhile since I've used a gas powered pressure washer. It stripped everything nicely. Unfortunately, I cracked a brake line, by touching it.... it's not that old either. It was that fancy coated stuff too. For some reason right by the gas tank everything rusts..... the frame, the fuel lines, and brake line. This brake line is one that a shop installed for me, when I needed it fixed fast. They didn't secure the line, and I think it's been the major rattle I've been hearing.

 

[smdk2500]

Yes gas powered pressures washers are beasts. When we got our new one at work i was used to our old one and almost cut a belt in half by trying to blast grease and oil off a compressor. I agree with them being easier to assemble. I don't know what you could do to convert to the older style other then buying new lines. And then i don't know if you would be able to make it work.

 

[Supercharged111]

The fuel sender that just failed on my 1500 was a Carter. The pressure output split at the seam. Also the fuel level sender came undone which was why my gauge never worked since the day I bought the truck. The design for that looks less robust than factory. See my 1500 DD Towpig thread in members trucks for pics.

 

[Stephen]

The truck wouldn't start Sunday night. Monday I spent time checking various things out, and verified to myself that the 14 year old dealer purchased pump should probably be replaced. My last trick was to whack the bottom of the gas tank.... the pumped primed, so it's drivable again at least in a limited amount.

I started prepping the bed to pull it. I broke one bolts, and successfully unscrewed 7. I still have the taillights, bumper, and the receiver may need to come off too.

The bed bolts and bumper bolts are pretty crusty. Even after wire wheeling them, I'd like to replace them. I haven't checked the dealer yet for replacements, but when I checked 14 years ago they were quite expensive.

The bed bolts are a 12mm with a captured washer. What have you used to replace them?

The bumper bolts are also a 12mm with a captured washer, with lock nuts. The frame and bracket holes may be large enough to switch to 1/2" hardware. What have you used as replacements?

No need to completely remove the bed. When I replaced my fuel pump I removed the bed bolts on the driver side and loosened the bolts on the passenger side. Disconnected the tail light wiring harness and the ground at the rear. Then I used a bottle jack sitting on the leaf spring on the driver's side to raise the bed. As I raised it I placed wood blocks between the bed & the frame. Raised it high enough to remove & replace the pump. One person job.