What other new parts should be replaced when installing a a GM Long Block

[Hungoveraviator]

So I am just going the easy route and going back to a 4.3 Vortec in my 97 K1500, as this my first time swaping an engine and I want it to be reliable enough where I can drive it across country. My purpose for it is to be my daily driver for now and eventually to be my mountain truck for picking up building supplies and probably keeping at the cabin that I will eventually build. Transmission has been rebuilt and just ordered a Goodwrench Long Block for it. Basically, want this thing to last a long time and be used as a truck.

Previous engine is sludgy as ****, may have bad head gaskets and don't want to dick around with it anymore. Guy before me seemed to enjoy using stop leak to temporarily solve problems. The intake is also all carboned and sludged up but looks like it will be okay after being cleaned out. I have heard the spider injectors are a nightmare, so when I took it off, I avoided them the best I could. If a person gets new injectors is it as big of a pain in the ass? Seems like the only way to really clean it would be to get them out of the way.

Oil cooler lines are leaking, so I figure those need to be replaced, but don't know what the best brand is.

Figure that I might as well do a new water pump. Is there a benefit to high flow ones?

What is the best more long term fix for the stupid plastic intake manifold gaskets?

I am thinking that I might as well do a new radiator too, is it worth it to go with a 4 row?

All of the hoses look like they could stand to be replaced, so I am thinking about doing that.

Distributor has one of the screw holes broken off, so I will be replacing that and putting on new wires. Not sure what kind yet.

Had a code for the Cat, so am thinking that at the very least it should be taken off. The exhaust manifolds look pretty well fused on the block. Are headers worthwhile on a 4.3? Figure either those or new manifolds because it looks beyond the effort I am willing to spend to salvage.

What else should I be thinking about? Any suggestions for a first timer?

 

[east302]

If a person gets new injectors is it as big of a pain in the ass? Seems like the only way to really clean it would be to get them out of the way.

Not hard at all. The 350 has a MPFI part that replaces the poppet style. I’d guess that the 6 has the same. They’d need to come out to effectively clean up the intake.

A new lower intake is around $400 from GM should you have the cash laying around and not want to mess with cleaning the old one up.

Don’t forget the MAP sensor. The little gasket may not survive removal or may be rotted anyways.

 

[mtl111]

Our usual list of things to replace when doing an engine rebuild or swap is
New water pump, belts, hoses, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires and either the radiator would get cleaned at a shop or get a new one. Since the new style have plastic tanks we just buy a new one. You said new distributor so that should have a new cap and rotor with it. I've replaced the "spider" on a 4.3 and it's not hard at all. Since you'll be getting a long block, take the lower intake to an engine rebuild shop and ask them to put that thing in their cleanup tank, it's worth the small price. Use FEL PRO gaskets on the lower intake, put the new spider in and the upper plenum on before you put the engine in the truck. An engine stand will be very helpful if you don't have one. If you think you can put the engine in without hitting the distributor on the firewall then I'd say go ahead and stab the distributor before putting the engine in, thats your call. It's alot easier than laying on top of the engine after its in! Lol! If you have never stabbed a distributor, you need to do your research on how to get it correctly timed or you'll drive yourself crazy on trying to get it to start and/or run right.

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[stutaeng]

On the lower intake get the Felpro gaskets that have the metal and plastic laminations. They are around $60 at the parts store.

But otherwise what mtl111 said sounds good. Basically, anything that is plastic or rubber, plus any items that are maintenance replacement items.

I would also replace steering system hoses,flush and refill fluid. Ditto for brake fluid as well.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Regarding the radiator you can drop in the bigger 34" rad thats twice as thick that is oem on the hd trucks. Ive done this. Works great.

Im running this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7VZGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x.OeFb3HS4DEZ

Need upper radiator brackets hoses, and modify or replace shroud with the bigger one.

 

[Schurkey]

FRESH O2 SENSORS!!!

EVERYTHING made of rubber--including the heater hoses in addition to the rad hoses. Good luck finding decent engine mounts. They don't exist so far as I know.

Heater hose quick disconnect--Dorman makes a longer-lasting aftermarket unit, about twelve dollars. At least, the TBI units needed these. I'm not sure about Vortec.

Magnetic oil drain plug?

As long as the belt is off, inspect (and probably replace) the idler pulley. Fresh starter, maybe a fresh flexplate. The original flexplates are known for cracking. Maybe your long-block comes with one. Be ABSOLUTELY SURE the purple wire on the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid is not corroded. This is a ***** to do with the engine in place, and so easy with it gone. Cut the purple wire back as far as you have to to get to copper-colored conductor. If the copper has turned black or green, it's got to go. Common for it to be corroded for a foot or more away from the end that connects to the starter solenoid.

Verify that all the ground straps that are intended to be there, are there--and connected tightly to non-corroded metal. Same for the power wires at the battery, starter, alternator, etc.

IS there such a thing as a "4-row" radiator for these? Aluminum radiator should have two rows of 1"--1 1/4" tubes.

Stock water pump should be fine, although I'm sure they make more-expensive ones.

The exhaust manifolds are not bolted to the BLOCK.

 

[Hungoveraviator]

FRESH O2 SENSORS!!!

EVERYTHING made of rubber--including the heater hoses in addition to the rad hoses. Good luck finding decent engine mounts. They don't exist so far as I know.

Heater hose quick disconnect--Dorman makes a longer-lasting aftermarket unit, about twelve dollars. At least, the TBI units needed these. I'm not sure about Vortec.

Magnetic oil drain plug?

As long as the belt is off, inspect (and probably replace) the idler pulley. Fresh starter, maybe a fresh flexplate. The original flexplates are known for cracking. Maybe your long-block comes with one. Be ABSOLUTELY SURE the purple wire on the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid is not corroded. This is a ***** to do with the engine in place, and so easy with it gone. Cut the purple wire back as far as you have to to get to copper-colored conductor. If the copper has turned black or green, it's got to go. Common for it to be corroded for a foot or more away from the end that connects to the starter solenoid.

Verify that all the ground straps that are intended to be there, are there--and connected tightly to non-corroded metal. Same for the power wires at the battery, starter, alternator, etc.

IS there such a thing as a "4-row" radiator for these? Aluminum radiator should have two rows of 1"--1 1/4" tubes.

Stock water pump should be fine, although I'm sure they make more-expensive ones.

The exhaust manifolds are not bolted to the BLOCK.

I'll look into those thanks.

On my current exhaust manifolds, the studs or whatever it is that it is attached to, it's kind of corroded looking and you can't see much left for threads on them. Is it something where it might be easier to get them loose than I would think?

 

[Hungoveraviator]

So one other thing. Took off the alternator tonight and one of the bolt holes on whatever the mount is that it sits on broke. What's that thing called and would the best idea be to just go to a junkyard to find one?

 

[mtl111]

The exhaust manifolds will look kinda rusty, it's pretty normal. They're bolted to the head and there are studs with nuts where they attach to the exhaust pipes. Use a quality penetrating fluid " I use Kroil" and spray them all down maybe the day before you start disassembling everything. You'll just need to remove the nuts from the studs, slide the flange down, remove donut gasket. You can leave the manifolds bolted to the head for now and remove them after you've pulled the engine. Get new donut gaskets too! Forgot to mention that earlier.

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[mtl111]

About the alternator, are you talking about the aluminum cradle it sits in? One of the threaded "ears" broke off? A pic would help. I live in the south and stuff doesn't rust like up north. If you're up there, you may want to go around and spray bolts/nuts with penetrating fluid.

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