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The 4L80E definitely does take more power to get moving than the 4L60E but the extra durability is worth it in my opinion. My red '97 that I swapped the 80E into has a stock 4.3L V6 and it still drives just fine. Won't spin the tires on dry pavement at all now, but it doesn't seem under-powered for what it is. The Express vans were actually available new from GM with the 4.3L/4L80E.
Cooling is a valid concern no matter what transmission you're running. I run the exchanger that's built into the radiator plus an upgraded oversize AUX cooler on my red truck. It's possible to modify the stock AUX cooler brackets to fit a much larger plate style cooler, there's a good how-to thread stickied at the top of this subforum. Here's a link to it.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-factory-auxiliary-trans-cooler-upgrade.18104/
I mentioned this near the end of that thread too, but if you want to save some money go with a Tru-Cool M7B instead of the B&M 70266 mentioned there. Exact same part made by the exact same parent company for half the price.
How hard is the actual 80e swap? I imagine it's just like every other non-stock swap... You buy all of the parts that you THINK you will need, and then you end up having to buy a lot of small detail parts that you didn't even think of. I'd love to do an 80e swap, but between doing my engine and gears, I need a few year break from headaches.
Like I said earlier I paid my mechanic to do all the labor so I can't comment personally on how hard it is. He had it done in about three days though, and one of those was just driving it and checking for leaks. He said everything went together very well. No one in the shop commented or said anything was difficult, which they are not shy about.
My parts list in my swap thread I linked actually turned out to be like 95% complete. There were a few odds and ends that my mechanic had to figure out (like the driveshaft) but I knew about them before I brought everything in. I did a ton of research as it took me months to collect everything, but it paid off because every part that I brought in worked flawlessly and I didn't end up needing much else.
All depends on what transmission you're talking about... What's in the truck?
EDIT - Just found your thread where you mention it's a 1500, which means if it's an automatic then you probably have the 4L60E, which is a huge hunk of garbage. I spent $2700 on a 4L60E rebuild with a reputable local builder and then killed it behind the 4.3L V6 in my red '97 after about 10K miles. IMO if you have a 4L60E truck and you like to drive it hard at all, you would be much better off swapping in a 4L80E. Personally I would not waste any money trying to make a 4L60E any better, and a 4L80E is strong enough from the factory to handle a lot of abuse.
What did you do to that poor transmission? Lots of neutral drops? My 4l60 (non e) is stock, behind a very strong tbi 350 and has been abused all to hell and has no issues at 90k miles. Burnouts with wide tires, lots and lots of manual shifting, offroad abuse, towing, etc. What did you do with a v6 to ruin one so quickly?
I hear you df2x4! My '93 Sierra 350 has had 3 tranny rebuilds over the last 20 years. None of them got rid of the "clunk" going into 2nd gear. After spending $1700 about a year ago, I took it to another shop and told them that the clunk has got to go! I told them that my funds were limited by the recent poor rebuild. They brought down the clunk but 'added' some slippage going into 3rd gear. They said that they would have to dig in deeper (remove the tranny) to fully correct. All in all, the $600 spent has made the truck so much more fun to drive.All depends on what transmission you're talking about... What's in the truck?
EDIT - Just found your thread where you mention it's a 1500, which means if it's an automatic then you probably have the 4L60E, which is a huge hunk of garbage. I spent $2700 on a 4L60E rebuild with a reputable local builder and then killed it behind the 4.3L V6 in my red '97 after about 10K miles. IMO if you have a 4L60E truck and you like to drive it hard at all, you would be much better off swapping in a 4L80E. Personally I would not waste any money trying to make a 4L60E any better, and a 4L80E is strong enough from the factory to handle a lot of abuse.
Are there adjustments that have to be made to replace my 4L60E with the 4L80E?
I have a 98 with nearing a 150,000 miles I feel like my transmission is on its way out. I’ve had 35’s and a hard pedal foot on it so it makes sense. I want to upgrade the transmission to handle future upgrades I don’t know exactly what I would look for. What should I get put in it and expect to pay for a built transmission