What are your thoughts on this rust? Can I repair or do I need to replace?

[stephen p luce]

I have a complete 97 suburban , less engine that's a lot better than that ( California car ) I'll sell the whole thing for $1500 then you would have everything you need plus spare body parts. It's 4x4 auto.

 

[Boots97]

Yes, it's an 800 and up axle. Anything earlier than an 800 with an AAM 11.5 is a swap, or a Workhorse chassis. 3500HDs were Rockwell (early HDs) and Dana 80.

I stand corrected, Thank You.

 

[SDgunner]

I’m not sure how deep you’re going to get into this, thought I’d pass this on if you’re going further than oil spraying etc.

If you’re cleaning things up and coating, there is a product that has worked very well for me. POR I’ve given up on, it fails after a few yrs, and is not UV stable at all. And I do not like their prep process.

I’ve tried a lot of different ways of cleaning, treating, painting, coating, etc rusty parts. There’s really no easy fix. Sand blasting to bare, and epoxy prime is traditionally best. But, not always practical.

I have had good success with Mastercoat. Well prepped, sandblasted/spotbalsted, and clean (lacquer thinner, mek, etc) At the very least wirewheel etc. Just keep in mind - if the rust can still flake off, so can the coating, even small stuff. Then top coat with your choice. I recommend top coat (epoxy, enamel, what ever you’re using) it while it is transfer free, but still tacky.

Good luck with it, loads of fun.

I see that it's UV stable but it's still a primer to be top coated so what is the benefit of being UV stable? POR 15 with a top coat will be UV stable as well no? Not being snarky, I'm interested in using it.

 

[SDgunner]

I have a complete 97 suburban , less engine that's a lot better than that ( California car ) I'll sell the whole thing for $1500 then you would have everything you need plus spare body parts. It's 4x4 auto.

Does it have the tailgate by any chance?

 

[JJF20]

I see that it's UV stable but it's still a primer to be top coated so what is the benefit of being UV stable? POR 15 with a top coat will be UV stable as well no? Not being snarky, I'm interested in using it.

No, not snarky at all. Recommended to top coat, but you can leave it that way as well. I top coat it. But you must start with a clean prepped base material. And top coat while it is tacky, very important.

It is a very different coating system, similar, but different. Much, thicker. I’ve had much better luck with that, than por. Difficult to v even sand when cured. I’ve had to grind it off the rotisseries when finished with it. It is a very tough material. Also note, it only lasts a couple yrs in the can, even unopened. It will harden. I’m not th best at the teaching or the how to type threads to be honest. It’s probably something you would just have to use a few times each to see what I mean.

Just passing on an option.

 

[Caman96]

After hand painting my frame with POR15, I sprayed it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer which is UV protected.

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