Went to 20" rollers

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bobby v

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So I have always wanted 20" wheels and finally put together a deal that didnt hurt too bad. But in doing so the front rubbed, the rear was fine, that was what I was worried about as they did before with my old 18" wheels but I had trimmed the lips and the new ones were actually a better fit :)
But since it was a package deal that came 20" all around I found the front did rub when going over dips darnit.
So yesterday I took it to the local custom shop I use and they have the Eastwood Lip Roller. They came out OK so far but big dips Im not so sure of, havent driven it enough. I was hoping they would roll up a little tighter but they are double walled so he did as much as he could, still about 3/8" thick of a lip, hopefully it wont be too bad or those QA1 adjustable Coil overs will be moved to the front of the wish list
Bobby V

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sewlow

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I'm a bit leery of that Eastwood Fender Roller. They've created more probs than they've cured.
I got my fender lips rolled & tucked in nice & tight by spending about 1/2 an hour per side with a (borrowed) small-ish body hammer & dolly.
Like this...

'Shrinking hammer'

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I started in the center of the wheel well & bent the lip about 10" out from there in either direction. Did small incremental bends at a time, with 3 runs of bending to get the lip where I wanted it.
I didn't want to cut reliefs in the lips to get them bent over.

Another spot that you are also probably rubbing is the bottom rear of the wheel well at the lower firewall.
Rubbing there causes no damage to the tire, but it does make one helluva terrible 'Bzzzt' noise. The tires will rub off any paint/undercoating, though.
I keep a can of Plasti-coat 'Hot-Rod Black' behind the seat just for touching that up every now & then.
Bagged guys will actually do small mini-tubs in that area for when they're laying frame.
 

bobby v

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Thanks Sewlow, was your truck painted at that time? I would be afraid to hammer agaist the dolly cause mine is finish painted, even with a cloth wrapped dolly.
In the rear I used an air saw and trimmed away the metal, came out OK and then I painted it black as you said.
I seem to have plenty of room in the area behind the tire wheel well, but I haven't had it out for any extended testing yet, too damn hot here 114' today.
Im sure I will find out as soon as we go for a cruise
Bobby V
 

sewlow

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It's the original paint. No cracks or chips happened when I did this.
The idea with that dolly is that the pointed end fits into the bend of the lip. Doing that makes sure that the shape of the opening remains correct & the bending is occuring in the same spot as the factory's.
The hammer is bending the lip to the dolly. The dolly is away from the fender. As long as your aim is good, there's no chance of creating 'outie' dents in the fender from the inside.
Don't really have to hit hard. Just tap-tap-tap from the center out. Let the hammer do the work
Work 'small'. Don't try to bend the lip the whole distance over all in one shot.
I am in no way a body-man of any sort, ("borrowed hammer" Lol!) but I did spend a fair amount of time in metal-shop. 40+ *cough* years ago!
I'd never bent fender lips before this truck.
I've bent plenty of sheet metal over the years, but not in a good way!
No one was hanging over my shoulder walking me through.
Just took my time.
I did my '97's too. I started by cutting some of the lip off, but I didn't like the idea of doing that as that lip is what gives the fender opening it's strength.
So I decided to bend 'em like the other truck.
THAT had me a little freaked out. But...took a deep breath & went at it. Slowly! Cautiously!
No biggie. Came out fine.
The hard part was bending the w/w opening chrome trim to fit up to the rolled lip & still look good from the outside
If you see pix of the passenger side front fender of my '97, you can see that that one is still not quite right. I see it every time I look at the truck! Of course!
That chrome trim stuff! Yeesh! What a PitA!
 

someotherguy

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Don't forget the bolts for the air intake resonator tube on the passenger fenderwell. Those will rub the tire on hard dips when you're fairly low. Get rid of 'em.. a swap to the non resonator tube or a different intake will help.

I've always clearanced the fender lips using a regular hammer, no dolly, but hey I'm a hack :D never any issues though - on original fenders. Aftermarket are thinner and will dent the fender much easier.

Richard
 

Aarong23

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The center of the fender lip cut the outermost part of my sidewall to ribbons before a "great" body shop rolled mine. Total hack job. They new they did such a terrible job, that the guy ended up not even charging me. So I would definitely do what sewlow is recommending!
 

bobby v

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Well went out for testing this morning (way too hot in the afternoon) and although I didn't take any major dips at speed I did not get any rubbing in any wheel well, yippee, and our streets are as poor as they come with off camber slants and sudden changes in fall one way or the other, lots of old ass steeets that have been modified with out planning, whatever. So the "fender roll" worked well, so far anyways :D
On to the next mod
Bobby V
 

gearheadE30

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Looks good! I'm considering a new set of wheels for mine - what width/offset are those? Seems like 20x8.5 or 20x9 with a slight negative offset is the sweet spot but always looking for more data points.
 
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A little more negative camber in the front will solve your issue. I have 20’s on mine with a 5-7 drop. Rolled my fenders and still rubbed and I moved the camber in some and they tuck inside nicely now over bumps


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