Tired hit inner fender on bumps! HELP!!!

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gearheadE30

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The factory service manuals have torques for all this stuff, but in general there are standard torques based on the bolt diameter, thread pitch, and grade. Those charts are readily available online. Most metric stuff on these is grade 8.8 and most English seems to be grade 5. Some of the more critical fasteners are higher grade, but I don't think you'll be touching those with the suspension.
 

454cid

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The factory service manuals have torques for all this stuff, but in general there are standard torques based on the bolt diameter, thread pitch, and grade. Those charts are readily available online. Most metric stuff on these is grade 8.8 and most English seems to be grade 5. Some of the more critical fasteners are higher grade, but I don't think you'll be touching those with the suspension.

That's not correct. Most metric is 10.9. You may find some 9.8, but I don't think I've ever seen 8.8 used for automotive, by GM. SAE is likely Grade 8, but I don't touch that stuff often.... last thing was probably my water pump a couple of years ago.
 

454cid

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Tighten until your elbow clicks. I'd say that not everything needs a torque spec, but I've also known some gorillas who try to snap off every bolt.

He's asking for torque specs for suspension components. He should be using a torque wrench.

OP, I don't have the urls handy, but if you doa search here, you should be able to find a few posts were you can download a manual online. If you can't find your exact year, just get one close.
 

df2x4

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Erik the Awful

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He's asking for torque specs for suspension components. He should be using a torque wrench.
So, when you're torquing your ball joints, how do you get them torqued to spec? I doubt most people know how, and I never new a tech who actually cared. Get 'em tight. Sway bar torque specs don't matter so long as you don't crush the bushings or strip threads.
 

96TahoeDoug

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How did you decide cutting down the bump STOP was the corrective action needed?
It's a vehicle specific awareness thing based mainly on personal preference. I eventually cut my bump stops twice- once at 50% then again at 33%. The last thing cut gave me most travel and least impact deadening - then I decided having that final.25" travel was more important to the flow of my chosen route to work, so I removed bump stops.

Why remove? I have my 17 mile one way to work mentally mapped like a mine field, and I own that route and avoid the mines.

The more travel, potentially the less smackdown. With bumpers in, it's gonna bump easier albeit less severe due to the padding.

NOTE: some bump stops/limiters/snubbers have an extended metal hoop eating up about 2" of travel, probably which get removed during flip kit install...if that is not seen and dealt with, say removing bracket and remounting bump stops on the high arch - well then your in the loop of the learning curve of driving a cool or potentially cool slammed truck....its a learning curve like watching the tail lights ahead as they react smoothly or violently to get an early warning of the road. Snubber cutting is an important part of the overall tuning process and should never be overlooked.
 

96TahoeDoug

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454cid

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So, when you're torquing your ball joints, how do you get them torqued to spec? I doubt most people know how, and I never new a tech who actually cared. Get 'em tight. Sway bar torque specs don't matter so long as you don't crush the bushings or strip threads.

With a torque wrench, just like any other bolt. Once you have the taper seated, it's not moving.

Sway bars aren't holding anything together.
 
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