Threw a Rod. How can this happen in 2023

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Hipster

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Oh, yeah. One more thing.





I worded my response poorly, and you misunderstood as a result.

What I meant was the computer's "safe mode" and trouble-codes forced you to fix two problems (faulty O2 sensors, and faulty MAF sensor.) Either of which could have led to improper air-fuel-ratio control. That leads to potentially making the knock-sensor angry, retarding timing and driving engine coolant temperature, and exhaust temperature up. Retarded timing and/or air/fuel mixture problem in turn could have murdered the catalysts, especially if the mixture went "rich".

By forcing you to fix the problems, the computer "programming" maybe saved your catalytic converters, and in the process saved you hundreds of dollars.
The fact it took all summer and multiple times to get through it doesn't exactly exude exemplary PM. Fully loaded with gear and supplies, a M/C on board, full tank, and two people this rig probably over 10k "on the truck". A pretty tall order for a 3/4.
 

92GMCK2500

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@Westieterrier - sorry to hear man!

There is some good advice in this thread. Yeah, I know, written text with no visual ques can come across harsh sometimes.

There are fellas here with a **** ton of heavy hauling experience with these trucks. I'm on the same page, unfortunately something was not quite right in the engine mechanics, oil related. That sucks. But main thing is, no accidents involved, you & your lady are safe.

Try keep an open mind & keep on charging!

You know you want to keep your truck. Go the 383 route like others have suggested. You will not be disappointed. It's an easy upgrade with you being vortec already. GM crate is easy route with the best warranty you'll find but comes at a cost. Locally built by known good machine shop would be good too, less warranty but probably more affordable. You'll have to do the leg work in terms of research & coordination of work etc.

Good luck, look forward to hearing more! Cheers

Edit: PS - seriously, these trucks are tough, I abuse the 5h1t out of mine, foot planted, fully loaded. My engine is knocking bad but I kept abusing it until it will leave me stranded one day. Hasn't yet. I laugh alot.
 

Schurkey

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Go the 383 route like others have suggested. You will not be disappointed. It's an easy upgrade with you being vortec already. GM crate is easy route with the best warranty you'll find but comes at a cost. Locally built by known good machine shop would be good too, less warranty but probably more affordable. You'll have to do the leg work in terms of research & coordination of work etc.
The GM "HT383" is specifically targeted at half-ton trucks. There won't be a warranty if it's crammed into a 2500.
 

Westieterrier

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Good afternoon Gentlemen and thanks for all the great advice and guidance here.

I have to clarify: I was wrong on the GVW, which was 8,900 lbs at the time. I was carry my little TW200 in the front. Checked my notes from all the trips that we've done to the State Trooper scales. Not sure if the 300 lbs makes a difference. Also, I was floored for about 15 seconds, if even that. I rarely ever floor the truck (or my '66 El Camino, etc.).

I changed the oil and filter last night, then cut the lip of the filter to remove the element. I may have shot myself in the foot there as I used a Dremmel cutoff wheel on the metal casing of the filter housing. I may have contaminated the sample, though I note lots of very fine metal particles contained in the oil filter sample, though few on the element (see pic if that helps). Total oil removed from filter and crankcase: just about 2 quarts. Damn! I know I didn't let it get that low.

The drain plug had no material, and the crankcase oil didn't seem to have any either as I ran my hand through it, then scooped out smaller portions rubbing my hands together to feel for any grit. The crankcase oil felt alot different from the sample in the oil filter, which is why I wonder if I contaminated it with the cutoff tool.

Would dropping the pan and removing the manifold/heads give me a good read on what happened? I can do that at home, but I just don't have the facilities or skillset to pull the entire engine out (something I've never done).

Also, the local mechanic here said it would take an entire week to pull the old engine and swap in a new one. He said the tranny has to come out first, but itself. Seems odd to me, esp. w. a 2X4 front engine, rear drive vehicle. Thoughts on that?

Thanks again everyone for your help (and support) here! It's taken a little bit of the sting out of what happened. P

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Erik the Awful

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Also, the local mechanic here said it would take an entire week to pull the old engine and swap in a new one. He said the tranny has to come out first, but itself. Seems odd to me, esp. w. a 2X4 front engine, rear drive vehicle. Thoughts on that?
He's a f***ing moron.
 

92GMCK2500

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Try a different shop or two as a comparison. And ask the tough questions. Sounds like you know enough yourself, give Er!
 

b454rat

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Anything can go at any time, I doubt it's something that you did. I can't imagine what it would cost now to rebuild a motor, I have one that I want to get redone for my Yukon, same condition as yours, was knocking. But I think it will need rods redone, maybe crank, it only had 68k on it so bore should be fine. But I'd find another mechanic, a week to swap a motor?? And why do you have to pull the trans first?? Or at all?? Granted not quite the same, but I swapped motors in my old Malibu years ago. Drove it home with the 400, pulled it still hot for a 454, had issues with it, so swapped it back to the 400 and drove it the next day. Was about a 5-6 hour span if I remember. Biggest pain is the accessories, need to pull the power steering pully to get to one dam bolt...
 
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