Things to do while engine is out

[HerpDerp1919]

I have a used engine that's going into my 2000 K2500 4x4. I already plan on doing the oil pan gasket as well as front and rear main seals while the engine is out. Is there anything else I should do that would otherwise be a PITA to do with the engine in the truck?

 

[mtl111]

It depends on the mileage and condition of the engine. I'm assuming its a 350, if so I would definitely replace the intake gaskets and possibly a new "spider". Oil pump, timing chain and possibly going through the heads if needed. All this is depending on the condition of the engine.

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[RawbDidIt]

I have a used engine that's going into my 2000 K2500 4x4. I already plan on doing the oil pan gasket as well as front and rear main seals while the engine is out. Is there anything else I should do that would otherwise be a PITA to do with the engine in the truck?

Go over everything steering and suspension related on the front axle. Not hard to do with the engine in the truck, but from the engine bay you have a perspective you'll likely not have again for a while, and you may find issues you wish have otherwise. On the engine, I'd do the rotor, cap, wires, and maybe the oil pressure sensor.

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[arrg]

Engine mounts

 

[letitsnow]

If you plan to replace the oem steering stabilzer, it seems it would be easier with the motor out.

 

[Schurkey]

"I" would do a leakdown test and/or a cranking compression test of the engine before installation.

Absolutely verify the timing chain before you put the oil pan back on. Might be worthwhile to degree the cam while the cover is off.

Distributors are a common problem, the plastic housing wears out as does the distributor gear.

Could be helpful to remove each lifter one at a time, for disassembly, cleaning, and inspection.

Flexplates are a common problem--they crack around the crankshaft bolt holes.

"Good luck" with engine mounts. I never did find an acceptable solution; I reluctantly reinstalled my 300,000 mile mounts.

Make the ORIGINAL engine run as good as possible, so that when you transfer components from the original to the replacement, you don't transfer defective parts and the resulting problems, too.

Now would be the time to slide in a new torque converter, if that was of interest.

 

[HerpDerp1919]

Go over everything steering and suspension related on the front axle. Not hard to do with the engine in the truck, but from the engine bay you have a perspective you'll likely not have again for a while, and you may find issues you wish have otherwise. On the engine, I'd do the rotor, cap, wires, and maybe the oil pressure sensor.

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I do plan on re-doing everything up front and in the rear suspension and brake wise. However my truck is an hour away sitting outside so all this is taking place in my friends back yard. I'm planning on getting this engine in and running so I can at least do front suspension in the parking lot at my apartment or at the auto hobby shop near me.

"I" would do a leakdown test and/or a cranking compression test of the engine before installation.

Absolutely verify the timing chain before you put the oil pan back on. Might be worthwhile to degree the cam while the cover is off.

Distributors are a common problem, the plastic housing wears out as does the distributor gear.

Could be helpful to remove each lifter one at a time, for disassembly, cleaning, and inspection.

Flexplates are a common problem--they crack around the crankshaft bolt holes.

"Good luck" with engine mounts. I never did find an acceptable solution; I reluctantly reinstalled my 300,000 mile mounts.

Make the ORIGINAL engine run as good as possible, so that when you transfer components from the original to the replacement, you don't transfer defective parts and the resulting problems, too.

Now would be the time to slide in a new torque converter, if that was of interest.

I'm gonna figure out how to do a comp test with it on my stand.

What does it mean to "degree" the cam?

Distributor replacement is in the near future as well as new intake gaskets.

Flexplate will 100% be replaces since they're like $40 new

I have seen your comments about not finding any decent replacement engine mounts which is a little disappointing to hear.

The original engine runs amazing! Except one of my rods is knocking like a desperate Jehova's Witness.

thanks all for the suggestions!

 

[Schurkey]

I'm gonna figure out how to do a comp test with it on my stand.

Easy enough. Bolt the flexplate and starter to the engine, connect a heavy power cable between the starter solenoid main power input, and battery +; and a heavy ground cable to the engine block and battery -. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

A small-diameter (12--14 gauge) wire is attached to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid, and run out where you have access to the battery. When you have the compression tester screwed into a cylinder, touch the stripped end of the small wire to the Battery + post to crank the engine.

What does it mean to "degree" the cam?

Making sure the camshaft is in perfect or near-perfect synchronization with the crankshaft--compensating for any machining errors in the crank, timing set, or camshaft. It's usually possible to get within a degree or two of "perfection". Often, within half-a-degree.

There are "degreeing kits" available, and offset keys or offset bushings to make corrections.

The Vortec 350 shortblock I built for my K1500 proved to be "right on" without correction--but not all engines would be.

Flexplate will 100% be replaces since they're like $40 new

I've had bad experiences with "new" flexplates. Specifically, I bought a core short-block that was removed because of a "rod knock", which turned out to be a VERY broken flexplate. When I bought a pair of flexplates from two totally different sources, it was very obvious that the replacement parts were not balanced the same as the original.

I had my machinist friend spin them on his balancer. He had to drill one to lighten the weight, and weld more metal to the other to make it heavy enough. It may be that buying the flexplate as a Genuine GM product is the best option.

 

[Supercharged111]

I'd definitely clean and regasket the oil filter adapter. I imagine your oil cooler lines are probably good and nasty too.

 

[Crankshaft Brad]

Do NOT reuse the oil cooler!!! If you have a rod knock, you have spun a bearing; and there will be metal flakes in your oil. Absolutely do not reuse any of the oil cooler parts! (You can reuse the brackets) That oil cooler has metal in it and when you install the “new” engine you will introduce the metal from the old engine to the new engine. I just had a replacement engine come into the machine shop I work at, that didn’t have the oil cooler replaced and it trashed the engine to the point where it couldn’t be rebuilt.