Recommended Maintenance while Engine is out

[PlayingWithTBI]

I don't think swapping my headlights would be any easier with the engine out

Even if you remove the core support

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Take a look at and possibly replace brake lines with Copper/Nickel that won't rust. You'll have great access.

I'm not sold on the Cu/Ni lines. You're right that they dont rust. They're not a ferris metal, but copper in salt is gonna look like Lady Liberty very soon.
I threw my money at the prebent stainless lines years ago. They're tough as nails, will not corrode like copper or OE steel, and just look plain superior to me.

That being said, only replace that which is actually needed. I'm a minimalist, if it ain't broke, dont fix it.

 

[tr34]

Thanks for the recommendations, I got a few of those things already checked off, so I guess that helps.

I have stainless steel brake lines, already had steel lines blow out twice on it.
Just did the fuel lines & fuel pump last year along with stainless steel transmission cooler lines.

I have an exhaust leak at the y-pipe so I was wondering if there were any header/y-pipe upgrades that fit 4wd? A lot of them seem to only fit for 2wd.

Should I touch the cam at all? Do they start to wear around this mileage?

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Thanks for the recommendations, I got a few of those things already checked off, so I guess that helps.

I have stainless steel brake lines, already had steel lines blow out twice on it.
Just did the fuel lines & fuel pump last year along with stainless steel transmission cooler lines.

I have an exhaust leak at the y-pipe so I was wondering if there were any header/y-pipe upgrades that fit 4wd? A lot of them seem to only fit for 2wd.

Should I touch the cam at all? Do they start to wear around this mileage?

Shorty headers. Direct swap, bolts the OE headpipe and if you get the right ones with the beveled flange, you'll never blow a manifold gasket. Also, use copper header gaskets and you'll never blow them out either!

 

[Frank Enstein]

I'm not sold on the Cu/Ni lines. You're right that they dont rust. They're not a ferris metal, but copper in salt is gonna look like Lady Liberty very soon.
I threw my money at the prebent stainless lines years ago. They're tough as nails, will not corrode like copper or OE steel, and just look plain superior to me.

That being said, only replace that which is actually needed. I'm a minimalist, if it ain't broke, dont fix it.

The nickel prevents corrosion. I did a brake line on da Momma's van 6 years and 200,000 miles ago and it still looks new. In Northeast Ohio.

 

[Schurkey]

Verify the wire attached to the starter solenoid "S" terminal.

Very common for it to corrode far enough back into the wire harness that you can't access copper-colored wire to splice into unless you start at the top of the engine. Then you have to replace three feet instead of eighteen inches.

General clean-up of all wire harness ends, including but not limited to battery cables, various ground wires, the dash temp-gauge wire, alternator wires, etc.

Pull the block drain plugs (knock sensor on the right side) to remove all accumulated debris in the bottom of the water jackets. Seal and torque the knock sensor when you reinstall. I use a brass draincock in the left-hand block drain hole. Replacing the core plugs at the same time is not a bad plan. Seal the core plugs with "Blue" Loctite thread locker 242. Fresh coolant when reinstalling engine.

Verify flexplate teeth, and no cracks forming on flexplate. Now is the time to cram in a different torque converter if you have an interest in that.

It would be worth verifying true TDC, and then assuring that the mark on the damper lines up with "0" on the timing pointer.

Support the transmission, so you don't rip the trans mount.

 

[df2x4]

Also, use copper header gaskets and you'll never blow them out either!

Mine from SCE did.

No idea why, but I switched back to standard Fel-Pro gaskets and they've been fine ever since.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Should I touch the cam at all? Do they start to wear around this mileage?

Cams don't get appreciable wear unless something's wrong. Unless you wife is looking over your shoulder and you want to hot rod it. If so, then yes, it's at that mileage.

Honestly, if the cam's good, run it. If you want to swap it, that's your choice and nobody's going to judge you either way. Your limiting factor on the cam will be your TBI. Any decent change in cam will require a retune.

 

[texas tough]

valve stem seals, rear main seal, front seal. remove freeze plus flush block, but brass freeze plugs in. check timing chain. check screen on oil pump,, rebuild throttle body and replace fuel pressure regulator spring. install new exhaust gaskets and bolts.