Things to check after I got water damage...

[House003]

I meant stalled engine. I was assuming in 5 feet of water it had stopped running, he didnt specify.

The engine never stopped running.. if the engine cranked over but seemed out of time would that be the distributor cap? And i will have more questions answered after i know how the compression test goes..

 

[great white]

I meant stalled engine. I was assuming in 5 feet of water it had stopped running, he didnt specify.

If you want to be picky, he said he drove it through and he listened to it afterwards. Stalling in the water is not mentioned so it is reasonable to assume it did not from the description.

You also did not specify "stalled". So it is reasonable to assume you meant in context of the op post...

 

[House003]

If you want to be picky, he said he drove it through and he listened to it afterwards. Stalling in the water is not mentioned so it is reasonable to assume it did not from the description.

You also did not specify "stalled". So it is reasonable to assume you meant in context of the op post...

i went into the water and then backed out, the exhaust and rear diff probably were not under water, but i know water did get in the intake because the air filter was completely soaked.

 

[great white]

i went into the water and then backed out, the exhaust and rear diff probably were not under water, but i know water did get in the intake because the air filter was completely soaked.

Keeping in mind I was not there to see it, sounds like you dipped it enough to wet the air box.

This does not mean water made it into the engine, only that water was "sucked" into the ducting. What usually happens is it reaches the filter in a mist form and that soaks the paper pleats. It then usually exits the box though the bottom vice entering the engine.

OEMs design it that way for the express purpose of dealing with water. If they didn't, every time it rained they would be dealing with warranty engine replacements...

Now, if you sunk the box completely, all bets are off.....

 

[IOWNJUNK]

If you want to be picky, he said he drove it through and he listened to it afterwards. Stalling in the water is not mentioned so it is reasonable to assume it did not from the description.

You also did not specify "stalled". So it is reasonable to assume you meant in context of the op post...

Nope, don't wanna be picky. If I did I would correct you by pointing out he said into, not through. But you've corrected me, oh, a dozen times or so, so I'ma do it this once.


This is the part where I research and think about everything I post for a while.

 

[House003]

Keeping in mind I was not there to see it, sounds like you dipped it enough to wet the air box.

This does not mean water made it into the engine, only that water was "sucked" into the ducting. What usually happens is it reaches the filter in a mist form and that soaks the paper pleats. It then usually exits the box though the bottom vice entering the engine.

OEMs design it that way for the express purpose of dealing with water. If they didn't, every time it rained they would be dealing with warranty engine replacements...

Now, if you sunk the box completely, all bets are off.....

I have a k&n filter.. :/ so not much water absorption there.. but either way, it wont start.. do you think the timing chain could be off or the distributor cap or both?

 

[IOWNJUNK]

Get everything dry first. Wet/dry vac or leaf blower, air compressor, hood up facing the sun, box fan, open everything up and walk away from it. Spend time checking other fluids and removing water from interior. Seveal hours or even the next day put it all back together and give it a try. Might wanna put it on the charger while you wait.

 

[great white]

Nope, don't wanna be picky. If I did I would correct you by pointing out he said into, not through. But you've corrected me, oh, a dozen times or so, so I'ma do it this once.


This is the part where I research and think about everything I post for a while.

Meh, whatever dude. Wrong is wrong, like it or not.

No hard feelings intended.

I have a k&n filter.. :/ so not much water absorption there.. but either way, it wont start.. do you think the timing chain could be off or the distributor cap or both?

Start with the cap.

Timing chain is not in this mix.

 

[94_C/1500]

You can get a little water in the engine and be fine. Many people drizzle water in them while running to clean the insides. But as you figured out alot of water is bad.
Could the knocking just be a bad misfire you heard? Distributors hate water. Could be moisture in it. Take it off and let it sit for awhile. If that doesn't fix it, compression test, leak down test, or one of those cameras on a flexible shafts will tell you something.

If its internal, could be bad bearings, bent rods, shattered pistons, and/or bent pushrods.

 

[great white]

You can get a little water in the engine and be fine. Many people drizzle water in them while running to clean the insides. But as you figured out alot of water is bad.
Could the knocking just be a bad misfire you heard? Distributors hate water. Could be moisture in it. Take it off and let it sit for awhile. If that doesn't fix it, compression test, leak down test, or one of those cameras on a flexible shafts will tell you something.

Some truth to it.

I actually inject water in my diesel for egt control. It does have a cleaning effect.

Mine is atomized though.

It is still liquid in mist form, but is not the straight liquid ingestion required to bend rods and crack pistons.

That requires a slug of liquid water, usually at or close to the combustion chamber volume. If it is less then the combustion chamber volume, it can usually be passed with no more effects than an isolated high compression event.

If it is equal or more than tdc volume, youre looking at damage for sure. In the context of this discussion, water is not compressible. If the piston is stopped before tdc, something has gotta give. Its usually the rod and the result is a bend...