The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

[HotWheelsBurban]

If the connector to the blower switch is melted, it can be replaced. In my cases, all blower switch “failures” were just the pins getting coated in melted plastic from the connector.

The switch itself is removable as well.

If the blower is rusty, check for the leaking cowl screw dripping water into the duct.

Good to know! Hopefully it doesn't rain all weekend so I can do this. I need to go help a friend out, with evaluation of his diecast collection, cause he has to consolidate it before he finishes moving. So that's one day at least....

 

[east302]

Meant to post the link to the blower switch connector (#12064998)

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Mine came in a pack of ten. Probably should buy some more trucks so that they weren’t a waste of money.

 

[smashdn]

I searched the thread for both parking brake and parking brake din and didn't see the answer.

Where should I run a wire from in the dash or wherever to get the parking brake actuated signal needed for DVD's to work in a double din head unit?

 

[xXxPARAGONxXx]

On my '97 CCLB, today I put the AC on (since our December days seem to be stuck in the 80s) and I smelled this warm electrical smell(hard to describe but if you've smelled it, you know what I'm talking about). I smelled this a little bit yesterday, but today it was more noticeable. The blower was not on high speed and the temperature was at about 11 o'clock on the dial, just barely cool. The blower has continued to work okay since we had the issue with it a few weeks ago, but I shut it off to hopefully mitigate whatever is happening....
Where should I look first? I am familiar with how the '96 up trucks eat the switches, but the blower motor is a little noisier than I think it should be. I have a "spare" switch, but it's the Suburban model with the rear defrost button.

Your blower motor is likely wearing out, increasing resistance, and thus increasing heat at the connectors. I would not continue using it due to risk of electrical fire. You should replace the blower motor. You need to inspect the power terminal connecting to the blower motor itself, and then you need to inspect the connectors that connect to the heater/AC control panel on the dash. Prepare to replace terminals, wiring, and connectors.

On mine, the wire and connector at the blower motor were melted. Also, pretty much all wires at connector C2 IIRC at the contro module were melted. All replaced all the wires, terminals, and connectors for the affected circuits. Was a bit difficult to find some terminals, as I believe connector C1 IIRC uses PC bow terminals.

 

[FrankieD61]

What is the most amperage the interior fuse box can handle? What is the most you guys would recommend? I'm putting a GM 4 note horn system in the truck, and will be wiring it through that? Is that safe?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm putting a GM 4 note horn system in the truck, and will be wiring it through that? Is that safe?

Here's something I did, you can power your horns directly from the battery.

www.gmt400.com/threads/electrical-upgrade-just-do-it.51911/post-1145987

 

[FrankieD61]

Can the interior fuse box handle loads from a horn or something like that? It wouldn't be much with the use of relays. Most of the current would be drawn directly from the alt/batt anyway.

But I would like to know what that fuse box is actually safely capable of.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

It wouldn't be much with the use of relays. Most of the current would be drawn directly from the alt/batt anyway.

Exactly, just run big wires to the load side of the relay straight from the battery.

 

[Wilecoyote]

Many dash clusters that utilize VFD's (vacuum-flourescent displays) end up behaving this way. It's usually due to failed solder joints in the assembly, and can be easily repaired by anyone with electronics soldering skills. Just don't dive in if you are unfamiliar, as even a very slight static discharge can ruin the circuit board and you'll be shopping for a replacement cluster.

There's likely youtube vids out there for repairing this, specific to your model, if you do a little searching.

Richard

Sounds like a crummy connection at your blower motor.

Back to the cluster...

A quick search turned up this video and it's even more straightforward than taking a GMT800 cluster apart (a little tricky getting the lens off those clusters) - if you skip forward to 3:50 it's where he starts taking the cluster itself apart, and at about 5:00 you can see a very clear cracked solder joint on the gear indicator display. He re-soldered that one and both displays began working again. I'll add that I see more joints cracked than the one he mentions; I would have touched all of them up where the displays connect to the wiring.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Richard

If the connector to the blower switch is melted, it can be replaced. In my cases, all blower switch “failures” were just the pins getting coated in melted plastic from the connector.

The switch itself is removable as well.

If the blower is rusty, check for the leaking cowl screw dripping water into the duct.

Meant to post the link to the blower switch connector (#12064998)

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Mine came in a pack of ten. Probably should buy some more trucks so that they weren’t a waste of money.

Your blower motor is likely wearing out, increasing resistance, and thus increasing heat at the connectors. I would not continue using it due to risk of electrical fire. You should replace the blower motor. You need to inspect the power terminal connecting to the blower motor itself, and then you need to inspect the connectors that connect to the heater/AC control panel on the dash. Prepare to replace terminals, wiring, and connectors.

On mine, the wire and connector at the blower motor were melted. Also, pretty much all wires at connector C2 IIRC at the contro module were melted. All replaced all the wires, terminals, and connectors for the affected circuits. Was a bit difficult to find some terminals, as I believe connector C1 IIRC uses PC bow terminals.

Now all of the lights on the dashboard work fine. The blower is working and the dial works too but the motor makes some noise when it's starts an then blows fine low to high. This truck sat for years and was cranked and ran around about ever month or 3. BUT I did not run the blower/heater The AC died about 20 yrs and I never fixed it and will not fix it.

 

[Orpedcrow]

I searched the thread for both parking brake and parking brake din and didn't see the answer.

Where should I run a wire from in the dash or wherever to get the parking brake actuated signal needed for DVD's to work in a double din head unit?

Which radio? Most can just be grounded, some need the ground to be switched a couple times.