First you are going to need a HEI distributor, intake, and a fuel pressure regulator. (with a return) Factory TBI pumps send 10-12 PSI. Its pretty important to keep the return fuel line because your carb can only handle 6psi max. The pump will want to throw 10-12 at it. The regulator will throttle it down to 6 psi, but you will burn up the regulator if you have 10-12 PSI getting crammed into it with no way to release the excess fuel back into the tank. (Ask the Summit/Jegs tech guys) You mentioned your truck was a TBI, so i'm assuming its a 1995 or newer, but if its a 1996 and later, it will have the Vortec motor, and Vortec pumps send upwards of 40psi. If your truck is a 1996 or later it's not a problem, you will just need to install a 88-95 TBI fuel pump (10-12 PSI pump)
Now for the transmission: (IGNORE IF YOU HAVE A 700R4 or NV3500/4500)
- Again assuming the truck is a 95 and earlier, if it has the 4L60E/4L80E. you should be able to run a TPS sensor on your carb and that will allow the PCM to shift the trans. If it's a 96 and later 4L60E/4L80E you will certainly need an aftermarket controller. Unless you really know how to make all the wiring work. Which I do not.
I have put a carb'd motor in my 94 (former blown up 6.5 truck) Didn't want to spend cummins money and had a bad IP and bad block so figured, screw it why not just run a carb'd 350. However I would really think about some of these things first.....
Do you have emissions? Retrofitting the truck will certainly prevent it from passing any required inspections.
What is your mpg? I would expect a 2mpg drop by switching to carb. At least that's the approximate loss in fuel efficiency that I'm experiencing in my application. (1 Ton CCLB -2WD)
Do you drive this in the winter? Supposedly carbs are a PITA with cold morning starts... I haven't had mine long enough to know.. However I do know that my electric choke makes it idle very fast in the cold and it will actually make the engine run on after I turn it off when its idling that fast. #carbprobs
What are you attempting to achieve? If you think the carb will wake up an old worn out motor and bring you power where power doesn't exist, i'd think again. Many guys say TBI's can be tuned to surpass the power of a carb. I would take my Edelbrock carb over a stock TBI power wise, however you'll pay for it in fuel mileage. Supposedly they can tune up these TBI's to exceed the power of a carb while keeping the TBI fuel efficiency. Not exactly sure how all of that works. If you are just trying to replace a blown engine on a budget and don't care, I would see if you could keep the TBI personally, and maybe look into some alternative options to boost the TBI power. Those TBI's can sit for years and start right up, but if you want to give the carb a shot, rock on. I'm not going to hate on carbs and say don't do it, you just need to know the pro's/cons. Remember my engine/carb are all BRAND new. So I haven't experienced any of the down the road issues.
From someone who's done it, I'm actually planning on switching to and aftermarket EFI setup to see if I can add a little more power, tuneability, and fuel mileage. No complaints on the carb, but I think EFI is probably a better choice for daily driving. I wouldn't think twice to put a carb in a hot rod, however It has flaws for a daily driver. If you do it, I would run a mechanical choke.. I have no control over my electric one and it high idles whenever it wants and like I mentioned earlier, the high idle causes some run on after I turn it off. I basically have to make sure the choke is not on when I turn it off.