Suspension Rebuild

[Mr Eric]

I have done this, and learned my lesson! Buy Moog or AC Delco only. AC Delco professional parts to be specific. Cost is very reasonable on RockAuto and Amazon. Do not buy the junk chinese parts on other sites. I also did the energy suspension all poly upgrade, which is well worth it if you are willing to put the time in. Stick with Bilstein shocks. Tons of videos and how too's out there as well. Job is easier than you would think as long as you don't have too much rust underneath.
If you replace your CV axles, go with the HD versions as they have the more durable boots. I used Moog problem solver parts mostly, it's good stuff! And, the Timken hubs are the way to go there. If you unload your torsion bars everything usually comes out and goes back in easier if not replacing LCA parts. When I replaced all my bushings with poly it was almost in perfect alignment when I put it on the rack. Do yourself a favor and put the $$ and time into this project and you won't regret it!

I'll second the AC Delco pro. line of parts.

I usually go with the lifetime autozone parts, however I also replaced all the bushings with the urethane style from Comp.

I even debated drilling and taping a hole for a grease zerk for the a arm bushings as i don't want them to squeak. The sway bar comes with a zerk, I might have to do it to my other rig and try it there first.

Rebuilding the front end is very labor intensive so i would like to get 150,000 miles out of this rebuild/reset.

 

[Schurkey]

I even debated drilling and taping a hole for a grease zerk for the a arm bushings as i don't want them to squeak.

Don't bother on control arm bushings.

Most of the movement is between the inner sleeve and the Poly insert--which is not something you can grease with a zerk on the outer shell. There can be movement between the Poly insert and the outer shell, it should be greased when assembled--but there'd be less movement there.

 

[Mr Eric]

Don't bother on control arm bushings.

Most of the movement is between the inner sleeve and the Poly insert--which is not something you can grease with a zerk on the outer shell. There can be movement between the Poly insert and the outer shell, it should be greased when assembled--but there'd be less movement there.

Schurkey, should have been more clear. My hope was that pumping grease into the bushing it would come out both ENDS betwixt the bushing and the pivot side mount. Attempting to put grease in the crevice with a needle attachment doesn't get enough in there and after a couple of high pressure undercarriage washings will rejoice all the assembly grease.
I am beginning to seriously plan a ground up frame swap build that will be possible for me to maintain for the rest of my life.

The OBS /gmt400 platform is modern enough for me to be cost and labor effective. It's a great balance betwixt fuel efficient, maintenance, and cost. I can work on it myself without a full electronic suite of software and gadgets, without it being persnickity and always wanting to be adjusted to run at peak performance, like a carb, and parts are readily available and inexpensive.