Suggestions on new Distributor Brand/vendor?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

L337

Newbie
Joined
Nov 23, 2019
Messages
24
Reaction score
18
Location
San antonio TX
looks like i should have been here a long time ago. member of 67-72chevytruck and fullsizechevy(rip) back in the day.
liking this forum...
98 k1500 5.7 5 speed, 210k miles

Today truck won't start.
When it was running, hesitation, slight bucking when at 1800-2400rpm.
No hesitation, no bucking at high rpms.
Seems to be worst when high humidity and raining

Fuel pump pressure is good.
wires, cap, rotor, plugs replaced 1.5 year ago fixed hesitation/bucking issue once.
hesitation came back recently and left me stranded 4 months ago, so i replaced
Cap, rotor again and the coil this time.
Now it rained all this weekend and hesitation came back. today truck doesn't start.
Monday morning, Replace the 4 month old cap and rotor(under warranty), truck fires up.

looking for best replacement distributor?
Best vendor?
Everyone replacing with acdelco?
Anyone try the all aluminum version to avoid the common vent holes getting clogged up and trapping moisture and crud problem?

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

evilunclegrimace

Does not always play well with others
Joined
Sep 18, 2017
Messages
2,406
Reaction score
2,530
Location
pennsylvaina
I have been running United Motor Products Part number 9362 in my '98 Suburban for a while now and have had good luck with it. I also run UMP distributors in my '90 and '92 K1500's. Rock auto has them for $95.79. ( it comes with a cap and rotor with brass contacts)
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
Joined
Nov 30, 2014
Messages
1,006
Reaction score
434
Location
Means KY
If your distributor is factory, lookup knocking out the vent screens. If not, like my dads was, drill 2 5/16 holes in the base so it can vent. After a few years of putting a cap and rotor on his truck every 6 months, I drilled holes and now it has been a couple years since i have replaced it. His was the all aluminum. Also on it, had to grind the bottom to be able to turn it to set the crank retard offset.
 
Last edited:

L337

Newbie
Joined
Nov 23, 2019
Messages
24
Reaction score
18
Location
San antonio TX
If your distributor is factory, lookup knocking out the vent screens. If not, like my dads was, drill 2 5/16 holes in the base so it can vent. After a few years of putting a cap and rotor on his truck every 6 months, I drilled holes and now it has been a couple years since i have replaced it. His was the all aluminum. Also on it, had to grind the bottom to be able to turn it to set the crank retard offset.

yup, fired up this morning with a new cap and rotor.

my distro is the plastic model, i'm thinking of replacing the whole assembly since there are aluminum upgrades.
then i'll do the mod you suggest on the original distributor and keep it as a spare, also keep the new rotor and cap i got replaced under warranty today in the truck tool box as emergency spares.
 
Last edited:

88monteSS

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 8, 2019
Messages
205
Reaction score
266
Location
Bumfuck, IN
I put one of the billet aluminum eBay units on my 454 a few years ago. Haven't had any issues out of it yet, but I did use an acdelco cap & rotor instead of the ones it came with

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

HotWheelsBurban

Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
9,936
Reaction score
18,274
Location
Houston, Texas
Standard/Blue Streak makes a rotor with brass terminals and the better type of plastic. Just don't drop it, they're very brittle. Last time I checked, they don't make a cap, but Accel does. It has brass terminals and is made of tan plastic so it's a little easier to see down in the cave behind the engine. That's what I've used on both my Burbs, both 2wd vortec 5.7s. When I get around to doing the plugs and wires, I'll see if the distributor has vent holes. If not, I might have to put some. Does get a little humid in Houston, Texas from time to time. I had trouble like you've had last summer, my rotor and cap didn't look that bad either. But I went ahead and changed the rotor and it did help.
I think the biggest part of my starting problems was the Passlock going out, but I'm sure the loose ignition terminal on the starter solenoid and the grungy cable didn't help. FYI, if you have to replace the battery cables, if you have a battery shop or welding shop in your area, they can probably make the cables for you and it'll be a lot cheaper. On mine the factory replacement is $100 and it has to be ordered from out of state. An independent battery shop made it for $11!
 
Top