1997 Suburban dual AC question

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1998_K1500_Sub

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I keep the link handy to hand out in times of need:

 

brushwolf

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Well, it finally works. Replaced compressor and high pressure switch, dryer, condenser and big line on top. Could have probably just cleaned it but had to order the block off kit anyway. Rear lines are now blocked. Bottom hard line had already been taken off and cleaned, new orifice tube put in. If I had not already done that, I would just have replaced that smaller line with a single AC unit line which would have cost little and left me with one less connection to deal with.

Had just an awful frustrating time trying to put the 134a in because the can valve I used at first had the pointed end for old style cans and not the blunt end for newer self-closing cans. Try to bleed air from the yellow hose... Nothing... Adjust can valve up and down.. Nothing. Disconnect yellow line so just holding the can and valve separately.. Nothing... Tried a different 134a can... Nothing...

I used that same pointed valve on a Mustang compresser replacement a few weeks ago and it worked fine then, but these 134a cans were newer and from a different supplier. No longer had the empty cans from the Mustang repair still around to compare cans, but they had been on my garage shelf a couple years anyway, so probably were the old style cans..

Looked up similar problems online and found it was probably due to the pointed end. My gauge set came with 2 valves, one pointed and another blunt. However the threads on the valve with the blunt internal end do not fit on the 134a can. Took the two valves apart and seeing they were identical other than the pointed vs. blunt ends, I just swapped the inner parts from one to the other valve housing and it finally worked.

Even though I pulled a vacuum again for close to an hour and let it sit anofher hour to see that the vacuum still held, I still had to jump the low pressure switch before the clutch would work initially. After one can was in, then I hooked up the low pressure switch again and the compresser cycled off and on thru the 2nd can, stopped cycling near the end of the 3rd can, though it was blowing noticeably cold air even after 2 cans.

In total I put 34-36 ounces of 134a in it, a couple ounces of PAG oil in the new dryer, couple ounces in the new condenser and left about 4 ounces in the new compresser that came with 8 ounces in it. Rotated the compresser the recommended 10 rotations before putting the serpentine belt back on.

Did not do anything with the evaporater other than shine a light in its fittings to see if there was any noticeable debris in it. Looked clean. Not going to tear the dash apart.

But it finally works. Remind me to just roll the windows down next time... Now on to find out why my trailer brakes no longer work and the little red light on the Agility brake controller is no longer on when trailer is plugged in even after fixing the grounds and with new quadruple-checked (wiring is right) connectors. Guessing a full brake job on the trailer is in the offing...
 
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1998_K1500_Sub

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Remind me to just roll the windows down next time...

If there is a "next time" it will take you a fraction of the time.

After the 2nd or 3rd time, you'll get better. You'll have all the tools / fittings you need by then and you'll have your procedures ironed-out and better committed to memory.

Charging with liquid is a whole lot faster and easier then ******* around with sucking vapor from the cans / running the compressor a long time (at low charge) IMHO. Charging with liquid isn't hard to do but it takes some forethought to make it go safely, smoothly and efficiently.

A refrigerant scale and a 30# can of R-134a adds a lot of simplicity as well, but charging from small cans will do.
 
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